Hi everyone, I just got my first rotary car the other day. A friend was moving to florida and had to get rid of everything he had. It is an 87 turbo II. It's going to be a bit of a project car. It was not running when I got it 2 days ago, which really worked to my advantage on the price. Last night, I took it in to a local guy's shop that works on RX7's. He had it running in less than a half hour. All that was holding it back was the coil or ignitor or whatever they use. It's still running rich. We think one of the injectors might be stuck open. Im pretty happy with the car so far. I haven't actually driven it yet, Im waiting to get this fuel thing figured out. Hes going to be going over the car thursday to get a better idea of what it will need to get it up to par.

The car is mostly stock. There is a front mount on it and he also has a blow off valve on it which is the wrong kind aparently. It has the stock turbo and suposedly has a rebuilt motor with about 50k on it. Dave is going to be doing a compression test on it this week. The body is decent. Its mostly rust free. There is a decent sized dent behind the driver door that has a bit of rust on it. Dave has a parts car with a good quarter panel I will probably use. The only other rust is on the sunroof and the trim around the windows, so the body is pretty much rust free. If anyone has a clean sunroof to sell for a reasonable price, let me know.

 

An aftermarket BOV that doesn't recirculate the air back into the intake but into the atmosphere can cause a rich condition.

 

Congrats and good luck! Check the fors sale section for a sunroof..

 

I believe this BOV recirculates into the intake, so were switching it out.

 

Good deal man. Got any pics?

I would recommend taking it very slow, and do as much reading as possible before attempting any thing major. Definitely check out the FAQ at the top of the page.

Another thing, unless this mechanic has some decent experience with Rx7's, it's probably best that you familiarize yourself enough with your Rx7 that you can do all the work on it. Most everything can be done with basic tools and a resource like this forum.

Also, every single problem that you will experience with your Turbo II has been dealt with millions of times, so if you can find a way to "phrase" your problem, the "SEARCH" function in the top-right corner of the page will do you wonders, and will give you reading for days.

Good luck and happy rotoring...

 

congrats, and good luck

 

I got some bad news on the car. Dave did a pressure test. The rear rotor tested at 97 psi and the front tested at 75 psi. He found out I have coolant in my front rotor housing and the motor needs torn down to fix it. Im opting to just get a new motor. There is an engine importer locally that offers a warranty and they are pretty cheap. Dave is going to be putting everything together along with his buisness partner around the end of the month. He's has been a huge help through this. They are starting a new buisness called coldwater rotary performance.

Hopefully I should get some pictures if I can get my camera working. I'll keep updates coming.

 

DONT TRUST A J-Spec...they usually sit around outside for a while, and get rained on...water in housings is bad...usually a good idea to rebuild a J-Spec before you put it in...my J-Spec lasted about 2000 miles...some last a long time...but its rare...LUCK OF THE DRAW

 

No, Im not getting it from jspec. I was looking at them, but they didn't have any warranty. There is a place in Cleveland that has them for $1050. They have a 30 day warranty which isn't much, but it is something. I dont have the cash to get mine rebuilt right now or I would. If I was rebuilding, I would probably want to get it ported, then I would need a bigger turbo, injectors and so on.... Im not trying to drop 3 grand right now. Hopefully this works out well.

 

I would't trust their compression test unless I was there to see it... Mazda told me my MAZDATRIX REBUILD (fresh and in for it's 1st 500mile oilchage) had low compression.... People lie...

 

Compression test will be the first thing done.

 

I was talking about the shop your car is at now...........not the USED engine you are considering.. Also check out kevin landers at RR he can rebuild your engine for about $1300... PLUS he's honest.

 

gotta love buying a "non running" FC and have it working in 10 minutes.

 

Do you work for them? Just asking because your name. The place im getting the engine from doesn't have anything to do with the shop, so he has nothing to gain with me getting this engine. If its possible, we might try to do a compression test on the spot before we take the engine.

 

I do not work for anyone (well besides MTV) Good luck with the car.

 

it makes no noticeable difference, it'll be a little richer, but it won't cause problems, the only reason to recirculate air is for emissions and for noise standards