so i bought my Fc not running, upon trying to fix it i noticed that on a large piece of aluminum with a black cap on the right front of the rotor houseing as you would look at in the car. I think its a disty pickup but not sure, just wondering what it is and where can i get one to try and get my car running,
thanks
Dennis

 

It's the crank angle sensor (CAS), and the engine won't run without it being hooked up correctly. Can you reconnect the wires?

 

they are cut right at the base, so i doubt it
but ill try to, couldn't hurt as it is already f'd

thanks
Dennis

 

Advertize in the For Sale Section on this forum. Pay not a sou more than twenty bucks......and that's HIGH. Any series four or series five will work. They're all the same thing.

It's hard to imagine what kind of halfwit would cut the wires at the cas. Unreal.

 

There's enough wire inside the cas to splice more wire on......but you'd still need a connector on the end to match the harness connector.

 

the harness is there, its just cut at the base, preciate the help
Dennis

 

So the cas plug is there and the harness mating plug is there and you just need to splice the four wires back together and use shrink tubing to cover the repair area on each wire. Try to stagger your splices so they don't bunch up in one place.

 

im having trouble getting the CAS out of the car, any ideas on how to pop it out so i can do my soldering on my workbench?

 

It should just pull straight out once the single fastener is removed. Won't it rotate back and forth once the fastener is out? Wiggle back and forth while pulling straight out. NOTHING should be holding it in. It does have a single *0* ring around its base that MIGHT be making it difficult to pull out. I've never ever had that problem.

 

it doesn't wiggle at all, its stuck, gonna have to put this work off til tommorrow prolly, as a large thunderstorm is moving in
Dennis

 

I usually find a bit of corrosion build-up right over that O-ring that makes it a PITA to move for the first time in fifteen or so years.

Light taps with a hammer will loosen it up enough to work it out by hand.

 

Hammer. Work it back and forth. Then get a new o-ring and put grease on it.

 

got it rewired, battery is dead right no so im not sure if its the problem,

another problems its having is its drainging the battery very quicky even without trying to start it, and im not sure its getting fuel either, the fuel filter looks pretty crappy on the outside. maybe another culpret?

thanks
Dennis

 

yup, no fuel, i pulled the line off the fuel filter inlet and cranked it and no fuel was coming from the pump

 

The ENGINE fuse in the interior fuse box has to be good for the pump to work.

Battery dies just sitting there with no key to ON. Charge it up and at the end of the day disconnect the large feed wire off the alternator for the rest of the night. Check the battery the next morning. Maybe the alt is bad and is discharging that battery. Actually, maybe just pull the small plug off the back of the alternator instead of the large feed wire. IF it's discharging thru the alt it would be thru the two small wires. Or it might be something else altogether.

If you have a good ENGINE fuse and the fuel pump check connector is jumpered (yellow, two socket connector near the right strut tower), then leave the jumper in with the key to ON and see if you have voltage at the BLUE wire at the fuel pump connector (under the rug behind the left rear strut tower).

 

Pull each fuse to isolate the battery drain. Most likely causes are fried alternator or a fried starter, in that order.

 

the jumper is on the right front strut right?

 

did this car have a haltech in it before you bought it?????

Just trying to figure out why the CAS was cut like that.....

If someone had a standalone in the car and then threw the stock stuff back into it to sell it... you might have all sorts of wiring problems...

Check the wiring at the fuel pump in the back of the car to see if its been slipced into or cut as welll.

 

Actually it's b/t the boost sensor and the afm. It's usually wrapped with some black shrink tubing, but the connector itself is YELLOW in color and has but two female sockets. DO NOT JUMPER ANYTHING THAT LOOKS DIFFERENT. But jumper that plug with a piece of wire and turn the key to ON. The pump is SUPPOSED to run if you do that.

That act puts a GROUND on the Circuit Opening Relay just above the steering wheel. THAT relay pulls in and makes a circuit to the fuel pumps BLUE wire on the pumps CONNECTOR behind the left rear strut tower(under the rug).

 

car is N/A i don't have a boost sensor

 

what is the color coding for each wire directly on the pump? im trying to see if its faulty wiring to the pump ot the pump itself
thanks
Dennis

 

its on the passenger strut tower. Should have a vac line going to it.... ITs a map sensor.

 

NAs have a boost sensor, on the passenger shock tower. TIIs have a pressure sensor, in the same location. It's just Mazda's weird naming...

 

You getting spark now you fixed the CAS? You should make sure thats working before you jump into other things.

 

never have been able to drag my dad outside to see while i crank it for him