Originally Posted by Madrx7racer

lol.....i remember being your age and I know that no matter what we say You'll still want THAT car and you WILL get THAT car.........before you fork over any cash though make sure you do and ask the following.

1. call the man and ask him when it is possible to see the car while it's cold ( either very early in the morning or later in the evening.) so you can see if the coolant seals are intact.....

things to do once you get there:

MAKE SURE THE CAR IS COLD AND HAS NOT BEEN TURNED ON IN AT LEAST 3 hours.
turn it on and go to the back of the car to check for white smoke

If the car is smoking WALK AWAY..........or if you really want it offer him A LOT LESS CASH

while it is warming up pop the hood and open the radiator cap (nothing should explode cuz the car is not warmed up yet) and make sure that there are NO BUBBLES IN THE COOLANT and that it is topped off or at least semi full.

check brake fluid, PS fluid, look for rust and oil. after you do all this the car should be semi warm ....make sure the car is fully warned up......Turn it off, pull the oil dipstick and check for oil level.....it should be full but it's ok if it's missing a little bit of oil......also check to seee how dirty the oil is: TOO CLEAN and the owner is hiding something with a new oil change......TOO Dirty means not enough maintenance......the oil should be a nice dark color but not too dirty.

ask to go for a test drive
accelerate normally and go through the gears.....ask the owner (if he is in the car with you) for permission to redline....IF HE IS NOT THERE DO NOT REDLINE IT......go back and have him bring the car to redline (check for the dreaded and annoying 3500 RPM hesitation and any other problems)

also bring the car up to around 30-40 mph on a nice stretch of road and brake hard (BUT NOT HARD ENOUGH TO LOCK THE BRAKES) lightly hold the steering wheel and sheck to see if the car is going one direction or another (means that it might need brakes or uneven wear)

go back and forth and make sure the steering is nice and tight and that the wheel doesn't wobble. Check all the lights, WIPER BLADES (these tend to fail a lot and could be used to haggle for a lower price) make sure the top is not ripped and that it still works 100%


once you are back at his place pop the hood and listen ( DO NOT OPEN THE RADIATOR CAP)for any gurgling by the radiator, smell for oil that might be burning, hear the idle and give the car one last look over and decide.......

if anyone has any more tips please post......

Originally Posted by SirCygnus

the fc was not ment as a drify car. it was made to handle.

Originally Posted by SirCygnus

the fc was not ment as a drify car. it was made to handle.

Originally Posted by driftin8ez

ok.....i'll keep that in mind. What does a stock gtu with tII drivetrain run in the 1/4mile. Is it really as slow as most make it to be? I think my 240 would beat it in a straight line. My 240 is na also. Anyone varify that?

Originally Posted by Madrx7racer

ok, fine......looks like you're not your avg. ricer.https://www.rx7club.com/lounge-192/how-keep-ricers-away-7s-460568/

ignore everything I said above. LOL

I'm on my fourth FC and NONE of them has broken down on me.........make sure you do routine maintenance and I guarantee you that it will last you just as long as a pinton engined car. It's a good idea to start with an NA because it tends to last a little bit longer than a TII (motor-wise) but if you are the type that likes power then you should look into a Turbo FC......again, ignore my commments before (link will explain it).......check sig.......i know I gave you a hard time but you do not know how many good FC's are lost to idiot ricers every day......some idiot comes in here and says: OMGWTF BBQ!!!! i saw initial D and I want an FC NOW!!!!! be careful and I hope you go to the track instead of drifting on public roads..........here is my latest mod on my GTUs Turbo: https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...60#post4757060


<edited for extreme sig violation>