Just came back from checking out an fc3s5?
03-02-04, 04:57 PM
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Just came back from checking out an fc3s5?
I think, that's what it is, Its an 88 (not 89) tII. It has 134k on it. Interior needs love. Sunroof opens and close fine. Pulls 6 psi from what i was told, Going back to drive it tomorrow-
There are three concerns-
1. An idler pulley to the right of the alternator but next in sequence makes a horrible screech.
2. Sounds like a throw out bearing, kind of a rattle or vibration. Stops when you push in the clutch?
3. He said it can be hard to start on really cold days, He thought it was the Cold start accelator thing (forgot what it was, i remember taking of my fd) Accelerated warm-up maybe?
All in all for the price of 2400$ i thought it was do-able, i haven't done compression yet, but for the price, i was going to offer 2 grand and not worry about it. I plan on rebuilding this anyway. Body was in good shape.....
Any opinions?
There are three concerns-
1. An idler pulley to the right of the alternator but next in sequence makes a horrible screech.
2. Sounds like a throw out bearing, kind of a rattle or vibration. Stops when you push in the clutch?
3. He said it can be hard to start on really cold days, He thought it was the Cold start accelator thing (forgot what it was, i remember taking of my fd) Accelerated warm-up maybe?
All in all for the price of 2400$ i thought it was do-able, i haven't done compression yet, but for the price, i was going to offer 2 grand and not worry about it. I plan on rebuilding this anyway. Body was in good shape.....
Any opinions?
03-02-04, 06:36 PM
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1. Should be an easy fix, you might just have to get the bearing.
2. Pretty normal, from what I have heard. Mine does the same thing. I have also heard the noise goes away if you have the tranny gone through.
3. I have seen illustrations of a cold start antifreeze bottle on the Pass side of the engine compartment. See if it's there or if the car perhaps came from a warmer climate.
2. Pretty normal, from what I have heard. Mine does the same thing. I have also heard the noise goes away if you have the tranny gone through.
3. I have seen illustrations of a cold start antifreeze bottle on the Pass side of the engine compartment. See if it's there or if the car perhaps came from a warmer climate.
03-02-04, 06:41 PM
#4
A small possiblility could be that the tranny oil is old or low and is causing a bit of a squeel. That's an easy fix. Just change fluid.
A throw out bearing would be easy to change as well.
Just pull drive shaft then tranny and slip it out and put in new one. A new one from Mazdatrix is about $45.
6 Psi sounds like the general range for a Series 4 turbo.
134k is getting very close to the death of the engine.
Save for a rebuild and get it done before the engine actually goes and you'll probably save internal parts from being replaced and making the rebuild more $$.
Kevin Landers of Rotary Resurrection rebuilds for the best price at $1200 for S4 TII's.
A throw out bearing would be easy to change as well.
Just pull drive shaft then tranny and slip it out and put in new one. A new one from Mazdatrix is about $45.
6 Psi sounds like the general range for a Series 4 turbo.
134k is getting very close to the death of the engine.
Save for a rebuild and get it done before the engine actually goes and you'll probably save internal parts from being replaced and making the rebuild more $$.
Kevin Landers of Rotary Resurrection rebuilds for the best price at $1200 for S4 TII's.
03-02-04, 07:57 PM
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Re: Just came back from checking out an fc3s5?
Originally posted by XratedSi
There are three concerns-
1. An idler pulley to the right of the alternator but next in sequence makes a horrible screech.
There are three concerns-
1. An idler pulley to the right of the alternator but next in sequence makes a horrible screech.
2. Sounds like a throw out bearing, kind of a rattle or vibration. Stops when you push in the clutch?
3. He said it can be hard to start on really cold days, He thought it was the Cold start accelator thing (forgot what it was, i remember taking of my fd) Accelerated warm-up maybe?
-Ted
03-02-04, 08:41 PM
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Re: Re: Just came back from checking out an fc3s5?
Originally posted by RETed
Typcial as the bearing dies. Replace it with a good, used one.
Sounds like the pilot bearing is fucked. Cheap *** part ($20 for bearing and seal) but big time labor to replace.
Be careful - it might be low compression - get that compression test done.
-Ted
Typcial as the bearing dies. Replace it with a good, used one.
Sounds like the pilot bearing is fucked. Cheap *** part ($20 for bearing and seal) but big time labor to replace.
Be careful - it might be low compression - get that compression test done.
-Ted
I had assumed The pulley was an easy fix- I also would have "guessed" at the pilot bearing. Labor is fun (as long as its my car) Pilot bearing shouldn't be bad, might as well upgrade the clutch while its out (trans.)
Now about the compression, i read another thread recently about using my a standard compression tester and removing the check valve, then for each pulse of the needle, is the compression, in cycles of three right(once for each face of the rotor? Now which of those three is the number i need? And do i test from the leading or trailing? Better yet...any one have a how-to (All my FSM's are for hondas......sshhhhh!!
). Thanks and it looks like i am going to be rejoining the rotary world, i have had 2 fd's- one montego blue, and one brillant black. I miss them like loosing my right nut!!
03-02-04, 08:45 PM
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Re: Re: Re: Just came back from checking out an fc3s5?
Originally posted by XratedSi
i read another thread recently about using my a standard compression tester and removing the check valve, then for each pulse of the needle, is the compression, in cycles of three right(once for each face of the rotor? Now which of those three is the number i need? And do i test from the leading or trailing? Better yet...any one have a how-to (All my FSM's are for hondas......sshhhhh!! ).
i read another thread recently about using my a standard compression tester and removing the check valve, then for each pulse of the needle, is the compression, in cycles of three right(once for each face of the rotor? Now which of those three is the number i need? And do i test from the leading or trailing? Better yet...any one have a how-to (All my FSM's are for hondas......sshhhhh!!
).
-Ted
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03-02-04, 08:48 PM
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Oh yeah....Is 88' an s4 or s5? Where is a good place to find out more about the FC- i have read damn near every post in the archive and FAQ, Good stuff, but nothing to teach you the real "basics" of an FC...or maybe my tired *** read it and..............................
exactly!
exactly!
03-02-04, 09:18 PM
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I would offer 2k as well, maybe 2200 at most. Point out the mileage and try to use that as a negotiation tool. Check out the FAQ section for a link on how to buy a Turbo II, its full of ueful information. All in all it sounds to be a pretty good deal for a running driving Turbo II.
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