Like the title says I have a jdm swapped s5.
First, it has a hesitation/surging on accel and decel under 3k rpms only. PO says he put in a TPS and adjusted it.
Second, there are three hard lines right on the top of the keg by the uim that go to nothing and I'm curious where they go... I searched for diagrams but I couldn't figure out what they are. Maybe it has to do with the hesitation..?
Third, it puffs a cloud of blueish/white smoke only at redline. PO says it's from oil because it is premixed and has the OMP installed. Not really sure about that.

 

Also there is an open nipple on the back of the uim. Didn't feel like it was pulling vaccum, but that was at idle.

 

No buddy?

 

Can't help on much of the other stuff but the smoke you described sounds like oil control rings..

 

Bump. Any advice on adjusting the TPS on a japes engine? I can't seem to get the ohms to change...

 

Replace it

 

it's brand new lol

 

Set the Green/Red wire to 1 volt w/key to on immediately after the car has been driven for at least 20 minutes.

 

I adjust it with the flat head adjustment screw by it right? I tried adjusting it with ohms the way I've read on another post and it didn't change at all...

 

The flat head screw about one inch long and encased in a spring? Yes. When you tried the ohm way did you warm the engine up as necessary and did you unplug the TPS before doing the ohm check?

 

move the throttle, if the ohms change, you're using the wrong screw. if the ohms don't change, the TPS is somehow wrong

 

yes the car was fully warm, but it could have cooled down a little because it's f*ckin cold here. Will that cause it not to change?

 

it's right on the throttle isn't it? Cuz the screw moves the throttle plate.

 

When you unplugged the TPS did you place the meter leads into the back of the plug or front of the plug? They should go into the back of the plug because you can wedge the leads against the metal pin clips inside the plug much easier. Also, did you use the plug connected to the TPS or the plug coming from the emission harness? The correct plug would have been the TPS pigtail.

 

yeah I unplugged the TPS and used the lower plug. It's a 6 pin connector. I put the red lead into the plug with the green/red wire and grounded the black one on the block.

 

What does the lower plug mean? The plug to be used is the one directly connected to the TPS. And are you asking about the voltage method here or the ohm method? If the voltage method then the key needs to be on.

 

the lower part of the plug that goes to the harness, not the one that is part of the TPS. I just need to know how to adjust it. Ohms didn't seem to work, so I was curious about the volt method.

 

You're confusing the hell out of me. You asked about the ohm method and now you switched to the voltage method w/o stating it (okay you stated it after the fact). The voltage method requires everything to be plugged in for if it were unplugged then the TPS couldn't possibly be powered and it's not going to output a signal if it were unplugged. The ohm method requires the plug to be disconnected and the plug used would be the one coming directly from the TPS because that's what is being measured (in ohms). Understand?

 

okay I gotcha. Sorry for the confusion. The volt method is new to me and I haven't read anything about it. So with the volt method with everything is plugged in and I test just the green/red wire that goes to it?

On a side note, does this problem sound like a TPS problem to you?

 

We don't yet know whether you've tested the sensor under either method in the proper manner so we could not say at this point.

 

From fc3s pro

"DMM measuring approximately 1k-ohm with throttle at rest/closed.

If stock cold start system is still intact, engine must be warmed-up before checking TPS resistance.

Next, manipulate the throttle from rest position to WOT - check TPS resistance sweeps smoothly from 1k-ohm to approximately 5k-ohm (+/- 1k-ohm, or between 4k-ohm to 6k-ohm). Any TPS reading HIGHER than 6k-ohms will need to be replaced soon. TPS reading over 6.5k-ohms WILL cause high RPM hesitations!

There should be NO shorts or "blown opens" (DMM goes out-of-range or infinity) during the transition."

If you do not have the cold start system then testing and setting correct ohms is the same, but do it with the engine cold. And the volt method is unreliable as bad battery voltage can skew the results. Good luck

Oh here is the full link if it helps
http://fc3spro.com/TECH/HOWTO/TPS/tps.html