John V's STS GTUs build thread
11-11-09, 05:29 PM
#26
Thanks for the comments, I appreciate it. Glad to see there are a couple people following along.
STS rules as far as the motor goes - intake is free up to the throttle body BUT all emissions equipment must remain and be functional. No internal engine mods. So stock irons, stock rotors, stock seals, etc. There are some unique exhaust rules which I'll get to in a few weeks. As far as the ECU, I can run anything that will control the stock emissions AND fit in the stock housing. I'm going to do an Rtek 2.x so I can dyno tune the motor.
As far as the valve grinding compound goes, yes, that is another way to do it. I chose this method because it was cheap, easy and I had the equipment. And the irons look good to me!
For parts: I'm using Mazda's Competition Parts Department. Silly cheap prices and really easy parts searching. Since I'm racing the car, it's kind of a no-brainer.
Yes, the trans is going to get a new shifter in its entirety. I'm putting a short shifter in it. I had one in my old S4 turbo (Mazdatrix) and loved it.
I tore down the old motor tonight. Shockingly, everything looks excellent with the exception of one rotor housing which is just trash. Lots of flaking chrome, lots of chatter wear, and a rotor that was obviously letting a lot of oil by. But the irons are fantastic. I'm going to put them up for sale. They have less step wear than the irons I bought! But I already prepped the ones I purchased, so those are the ones I'll use.
STS rules as far as the motor goes - intake is free up to the throttle body BUT all emissions equipment must remain and be functional. No internal engine mods. So stock irons, stock rotors, stock seals, etc. There are some unique exhaust rules which I'll get to in a few weeks. As far as the ECU, I can run anything that will control the stock emissions AND fit in the stock housing. I'm going to do an Rtek 2.x so I can dyno tune the motor.
As far as the valve grinding compound goes, yes, that is another way to do it. I chose this method because it was cheap, easy and I had the equipment. And the irons look good to me!
For parts: I'm using Mazda's Competition Parts Department. Silly cheap prices and really easy parts searching. Since I'm racing the car, it's kind of a no-brainer.
Yes, the trans is going to get a new shifter in its entirety. I'm putting a short shifter in it. I had one in my old S4 turbo (Mazdatrix) and loved it.
I tore down the old motor tonight. Shockingly, everything looks excellent with the exception of one rotor housing which is just trash. Lots of flaking chrome, lots of chatter wear, and a rotor that was obviously letting a lot of oil by. But the irons are fantastic. I'm going to put them up for sale. They have less step wear than the irons I bought! But I already prepped the ones I purchased, so those are the ones I'll use.
11-11-09, 06:32 PM
#28
Smells like 2 stroke.
Looks like those used rotor housings you bought were in an engine that had penzoil ran through it! Lol. Other than that they look good tho. I'm sorta in the same boat as you, but I'm building my car as a daily driver... Same miles, but a 88 GXL. I wish I had a GTUs. *sigh* Oh well. Good luck with the build!
11-11-09, 08:49 PM
#29
Measured rotor bearings and eccentric shaft rotor journals, as well as the rotor housing shrinkage. Rotor housings measured absolutely zero shrinkage! Kind of surprising but a good thing. For the rotors... (don't worry about the little "scratches" on the bearing - they're just discolored areas from the bore gauge moving around. It doesn't hurt the bearing.
Reading the bore gauge with my micrometer
Didn't get a pic of measuring the eccentric (not enough hands!). But on my micrometer it measured 2.9130 on both journals, with no measurable runout. The rotors measured 2.9148. Clearance of .0018". The spec is .0016-.0028". I'm not surprised it's on the tight end, the rotor bearings are new.
Next need to check the main bearings and journals.
Reading the bore gauge with my micrometer
Didn't get a pic of measuring the eccentric (not enough hands!). But on my micrometer it measured 2.9130 on both journals, with no measurable runout. The rotors measured 2.9148. Clearance of .0018". The spec is .0016-.0028". I'm not surprised it's on the tight end, the rotor bearings are new.
Next need to check the main bearings and journals.
11-12-09, 07:06 PM
#30
Ban Peak
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STS rules as far as the motor goes - intake is free up to the throttle body BUT all emissions equipment must remain and be functional. No internal engine mods. So stock irons, stock rotors, stock seals, etc. There are some unique exhaust rules which I'll get to in a few weeks. As far as the ECU, I can run anything that will control the stock emissions AND fit in the stock housing. I'm going to do an Rtek 2.x so I can dyno tune the motor.
11-15-09, 08:05 PM
#32
Here's how I clearance side seals. It's always bothered me that
1) The seals are always way too long and it takes forever to do it by hand with emery paper,
2) Doing it by hand there is a huge risk of bending the seal and
3) It's hard to achieve a perfectly square, properly angled cut doing it by hand.
So here's how I do it. Put the side seal in the groove, butted up against one corner seal and overhanging the other one (yes, these are old corner seals, just for the sake of pictures).
Next, use a sharpie to make a mark on the top edge of the seal up to the approximate area where you want to clearance. Doesn't have to be perfect, just something to get you in the ballpark.
Now here's my rig for cutting the seals. I use a moto-tool clamped to the table, perpendicular to a very flat piece of masonite (wood or a piece of tile would work, but should be something smooth and flat). Position the seal at the right angle to the tool, with a cut-off wheel installed.
Here's a view from the top. Turn on the moto-tool and gently apply pressure near the tip of the seal. Every couple of seconds I quenched the tip of the seal in water. I didn't want it to get too hot. Just feed the seal in slowly until you get to the sharpie mark.
when it gets close, move the seal back to the rotor and check the clearance.
I clearanced all the seals to .002". A note is that you may have to back-cut the outer part of the seal if a burr developed during the lapping process. Usually I could pop the burr off with my finger.
Using this process I was able to clearance all the seals in about an hour. Pretty easy and guarantees a square cut with the proper angle and no bent seals.
1) The seals are always way too long and it takes forever to do it by hand with emery paper,
2) Doing it by hand there is a huge risk of bending the seal and
3) It's hard to achieve a perfectly square, properly angled cut doing it by hand.
So here's how I do it. Put the side seal in the groove, butted up against one corner seal and overhanging the other one (yes, these are old corner seals, just for the sake of pictures).
Next, use a sharpie to make a mark on the top edge of the seal up to the approximate area where you want to clearance. Doesn't have to be perfect, just something to get you in the ballpark.
Now here's my rig for cutting the seals. I use a moto-tool clamped to the table, perpendicular to a very flat piece of masonite (wood or a piece of tile would work, but should be something smooth and flat). Position the seal at the right angle to the tool, with a cut-off wheel installed.
Here's a view from the top. Turn on the moto-tool and gently apply pressure near the tip of the seal. Every couple of seconds I quenched the tip of the seal in water. I didn't want it to get too hot. Just feed the seal in slowly until you get to the sharpie mark.
when it gets close, move the seal back to the rotor and check the clearance.
I clearanced all the seals to .002". A note is that you may have to back-cut the outer part of the seal if a burr developed during the lapping process. Usually I could pop the burr off with my finger.
Using this process I was able to clearance all the seals in about an hour. Pretty easy and guarantees a square cut with the proper angle and no bent seals.
.
. It's building up my motivation to buckle down on mine.
11-19-09, 11:38 AM
#37
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11-19-09, 01:27 PM
#39
I was wondering why you were measuring those bearings cause I thought they looked brand spanking new.
What's this about rotor housing shrinkage??
11-22-09, 05:48 PM
#43
Tension bolts all torqued, engine flipped over to set the end play
New oil pump. I don't trust old oil pumps.
No gasket here, but I don't think a little Hylomar hurts anything. Helps prevent any possible cavitation when first started.
Oil pump in its happy home
Here I'm trying to show how the torrington bearing behind the thrust plate is moved aside, leaving a clear path for the end spacer.
The end spacer should sit down level and spin freely, like this
The front torrington bearing should be just sub-flush of the spacer, like this
The front counterweight has its washer (bearing race) on it.
Counterweight installed temporarily
Oil pump drive gear
CAS drive gear
Front pulley boss - not the one I'm using, but it doesn't matter
New oil pump. I don't trust old oil pumps.
No gasket here, but I don't think a little Hylomar hurts anything. Helps prevent any possible cavitation when first started.
Oil pump in its happy home
Here I'm trying to show how the torrington bearing behind the thrust plate is moved aside, leaving a clear path for the end spacer.
The end spacer should sit down level and spin freely, like this
The front torrington bearing should be just sub-flush of the spacer, like this
The front counterweight has its washer (bearing race) on it.
Counterweight installed temporarily
Oil pump drive gear
CAS drive gear
Front pulley boss - not the one I'm using, but it doesn't matter
11-22-09, 05:50 PM
#44
Don't forget the new crush washer and o-ring
Torque the front nut
With no upward force under the counterweight, the dial indicator reads zero
With me prying up with a screwdriver, .0025", right in the middle of the range. Good enough for me.
New oil pump chain, key and old sprockets installed.
Torque the front nut
With no upward force under the counterweight, the dial indicator reads zero
With me prying up with a screwdriver, .0025", right in the middle of the range. Good enough for me.
New oil pump chain, key and old sprockets installed.
12-01-09, 09:22 PM
#46
Okay, been a while but I have been working. I rewired the alternator / battery harness. I wanted to relocate the battery to the passenger's storage bin.
First, an overview of what I wanted to do. Basically, the drawing on the left is how the stock car is wired. Battery in the front with two wires. One medium gauge going to the fuse block and one heavy gauge going to the battery.
I rewired it as on the right. Battery in the bin. 4-gauge wire going to the starter. 8-gauge wire going from the starter to the fuse block.
Here's the stock harness, taken apart and with the starter wire removed. You can see the ugly splice the previous owner put in between the battery and fuse block.
Here's the nice quality wire I used with a quality copper ring terminal soldered and shrink-wrapped onto the end. The 250W soldering gun I had didn't want to do this job so I used a torch. This is the starter end of the wire.
Some grommets I picked up at Autozone. I'm routing the wire through the chassis, along the driver's side of the floor next to the trans tunnel, through the trans tunnel (with a grommet) and to the starter.
Hole drilled and grommet in the trans tunnel. About 12" aft of the starter.
Wire going through
Here's the 8-gauge wire with a new lug soldered on, shrink wrapped and bolted to the fuse block. The other end of this wire meets the 4-gauge wire at the starter.
This is how it sort of lays out. Ugly with no wrapping.
Carefully wrapped in high quality electrical tape.
Just waiting on my battery - went with a Braille. Only 11.5 lbs.
Once it's mounted I'll get pics of the bins and everything. I used a couple extra grommets (actually from the A/C system) to route the 4-gauge wire through the frame behind the seats and into the bins. Simple.
First, an overview of what I wanted to do. Basically, the drawing on the left is how the stock car is wired. Battery in the front with two wires. One medium gauge going to the fuse block and one heavy gauge going to the battery.
I rewired it as on the right. Battery in the bin. 4-gauge wire going to the starter. 8-gauge wire going from the starter to the fuse block.
Here's the stock harness, taken apart and with the starter wire removed. You can see the ugly splice the previous owner put in between the battery and fuse block.
Here's the nice quality wire I used with a quality copper ring terminal soldered and shrink-wrapped onto the end. The 250W soldering gun I had didn't want to do this job so I used a torch. This is the starter end of the wire.
Some grommets I picked up at Autozone. I'm routing the wire through the chassis, along the driver's side of the floor next to the trans tunnel, through the trans tunnel (with a grommet) and to the starter.
Hole drilled and grommet in the trans tunnel. About 12" aft of the starter.
Wire going through
Here's the 8-gauge wire with a new lug soldered on, shrink wrapped and bolted to the fuse block. The other end of this wire meets the 4-gauge wire at the starter.
This is how it sort of lays out. Ugly with no wrapping.
Carefully wrapped in high quality electrical tape.
Just waiting on my battery - went with a Braille. Only 11.5 lbs.
Once it's mounted I'll get pics of the bins and everything. I used a couple extra grommets (actually from the A/C system) to route the 4-gauge wire through the frame behind the seats and into the bins. Simple.
12-02-09, 10:49 AM
#48
awesome, that's exactly like I did mine.
you should definitely come down, I'd love to see your car. and don't worry, you'd probably still be able to beat me 
Originally Posted by jdmsuper7
I cannot wait to see this in action next season! I'm thinking it will be worth the drive to DC for the honor of losing to a NA on street tires.
12-16-09, 07:34 PM
#50
OK. Been a while since I've posted. I've been working on a bunch of things but nothing is really done. The motor is back in the car, the trans is back in, the shifter is installed and *most* of the previously-trashed-and-disassembled interior is back together. Whew. But the only thing that's really finished is the battery mount.
I made the piece below out of plywood. Not sexy, but really light and functional. A rectangular pit to hold the battery from sliding, a base to bolt to the car, and two studs to bolt a retaining strap to. Simple.
With the battery bolted down it can't go anywhere.
There are two bolts fastening it from the underside of the passenger's side bin.
I have to retain the factory padding, so I cut a slot in it to accommodate the battery.
Here I stripped this unused hole down to bare metal for the ground wire.
The other end goes to the negative battery terminal. I'm using a bolt-on terminal clamp. I've found they work fine.
The positive wire just comes through the storage bin wall.
Here's the positive battery terminal clamp.
Anyway... not too exciting but it's done at least.
Next: Getting the manifolds back on the motor. My stock lower intake manifold had a couple seized 6-port shafts, so I had to buy a used one. Gotta clean it up first.... that's to follow.
I made the piece below out of plywood. Not sexy, but really light and functional. A rectangular pit to hold the battery from sliding, a base to bolt to the car, and two studs to bolt a retaining strap to. Simple.
With the battery bolted down it can't go anywhere.
There are two bolts fastening it from the underside of the passenger's side bin.
I have to retain the factory padding, so I cut a slot in it to accommodate the battery.
Here I stripped this unused hole down to bare metal for the ground wire.
The other end goes to the negative battery terminal. I'm using a bolt-on terminal clamp. I've found they work fine.
The positive wire just comes through the storage bin wall.
Here's the positive battery terminal clamp.
Anyway... not too exciting but it's done at least.
Next: Getting the manifolds back on the motor. My stock lower intake manifold had a couple seized 6-port shafts, so I had to buy a used one. Gotta clean it up first.... that's to follow.