iridium spark plug question
02-18-06, 07:36 PM
#1
iridium spark plug question
does anibody tried any of the iridium spark plugs? a friend of mine gave me some NGK BR9EIX that he uses on his snowmobile and he told me that burn way better that the BR9ES im been using on my car so i wanna know anybody have used them before. thanks
02-18-06, 08:36 PM
#2
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
I have been using iridiums for about a year now.
I don't use the BR9EIX as it is the wrong temp and the length is slightly short. If you are going to use a Iridium cheapo plug the BR7EIX is a better temperature match. At least with the BR7EIX you won't get the cold engine fouling of the plug.
I have been using the Denso IRE01-27 in the leading position, but just recently went to the NGK RE7CL. Note that the RE7CL can only be used in conjunction with a CDI system unless you re-gap the plug (stock gap is .048 on the RE7CL vs the normal .028 spec gap for the FC). The NGK RE7AL was the plug that the RX-8 came with, but the CL version has side slots to reduce fouling in cold temps.
Not sure why you are using the BR9ES, as it is a conventional snowmobile/small engine plug (under 500CC) without even Iridium or multiple surface gaps.
I don't use the BR9EIX as it is the wrong temp and the length is slightly short. If you are going to use a Iridium cheapo plug the BR7EIX is a better temperature match. At least with the BR7EIX you won't get the cold engine fouling of the plug.
I have been using the Denso IRE01-27 in the leading position, but just recently went to the NGK RE7CL. Note that the RE7CL can only be used in conjunction with a CDI system unless you re-gap the plug (stock gap is .048 on the RE7CL vs the normal .028 spec gap for the FC). The NGK RE7AL was the plug that the RX-8 came with, but the CL version has side slots to reduce fouling in cold temps.
Not sure why you are using the BR9ES, as it is a conventional snowmobile/small engine plug (under 500CC) without even Iridium or multiple surface gaps.
Last edited by Icemark; 02-18-06 at 08:47 PM.
02-19-06, 09:22 AM
#3
im been using the BR8ES and 9 because i been using them since i had my turbo II engine on my old FB, seems to work better on the horrible weather in the upstate NY compare to non resistors or factory BUR7 and 9 and so far i havent had any problem in my FC, specially now with the FI sisten hooked up. plus they are way cheaper that factory too (1.99 vs 5.49)
gap wise i was putting the gap at .025 because that were i had the most out of my turbo engine plus it ran better.
do you have any sugestion ICEMARK?
gap wise i was putting the gap at .025 because that were i had the most out of my turbo engine plus it ran better.
do you have any sugestion ICEMARK?
Last edited by eddierotary; 02-19-06 at 09:28 AM.
02-19-06, 03:09 PM
#4
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
well for a cheap plug I prefer the regular NGK's for the rotary motor. But then $5 a plug is pretty cheap in my book.
It just depends on how much you want to spend on plugs and what the dyno shows your ignition/spark in the motor breaking up at. If you are getting Higher RPM spark break up, the Iridiums should be the cheapest first thing to try.
I don't consider $50 for a couple of leading plugs out of line as they should last a year or two and that really is less than two tanks of gas.
It just depends on how much you want to spend on plugs and what the dyno shows your ignition/spark in the motor breaking up at. If you are getting Higher RPM spark break up, the Iridiums should be the cheapest first thing to try.
I don't consider $50 for a couple of leading plugs out of line as they should last a year or two and that really is less than two tanks of gas.
The following users liked this post:
SRTx781 (12-17-17)
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
trickster
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
25
07-01-23 04:40 PM
Skeese
Adaptronic Engine Mgmt - AUS
65
03-28-17 03:30 PM
