harley71105

OK, I've got in narrowed down to this...during a no start episode with everything else working fine, I can pull the fuel line off the rail right after the filter and there is no pressure on the line. With the fuel line off I can turn on the key and fuel comes out , then reattach and she fires right up....then she will start several times till she sits for a while then the no pressure, then take off line, prime then reattach and she fires right up...
new FPR too....any ideas? thanks

WAYNE88N/A

At this point it's gotta be an intermittent wiring problem. An important question that needs an answer is- During the no start, is the pump running? If it is, you've got a very abnormal blockage somewhere. If it isn't, you've got an electrical open somewhere. And it only opens when it wants to. Easiest way I can think of to troubleshoot this is to install a meter on the pump power supply circuit, at the connector on the left rear strut tower. Leave the plug connected, and shove a small piece of wire into the pin that the blue wire comes in on (from the harness that runs forward, not the pump side of the connector). Find a size of wire that will stay put. On the other end of this jumper wire, install the red meter lead (make sure nothing can contact a ground inadvertently). Hook your meter's negative lead to a good ground. Put the meter on the 15 volt scale (or something close to that), and leave it like that- it won't hurt anything. Next time you get into the no-start thing, take a look back at the meter. If you don't have voltage, the problem lies somewhere between the fuse (15A engine) and that connector. This includes the wiring, circuit opening relay, your fuel cut switch (if still installed), and the door switch in the AFM. Have you ever tried to "tap" on the AFM during a no-start to see if that helps?
If you do have voltage back there on a no-start, the problem is with the connector, pump wiring, or ground. You're getting close...

harley71105

Ok, and as usual thanks a million Wayne...now the pump always runs when the key is turned on to start and for a couple of seconds after release...i've even done the under the hood jump so it runs constantly...i'm going to do all you said, but one thing that puzzles me is the fact that on a no start, there is no fuel coming through the line, at least not enough to inject...but when i undo the line and turn on the key it will flow, i can hook it up back to the rail and she will start, everytime...does sound like a voltage deal for sure...eh?

harley71105

oh yeh, one more thing...on the jumper wire by the steering column on the circuit opening relay...you said jump the blue wire to the B/W wire,,,t here looks like to be two black white wires...you mean the center one that runs to the pump? Also, I think I will switch AFM's tonight and try that too...thats pretty easy...if thats it if found one online at a salvage yard in alabama thats guaranteed for thirty days "uneedit aut parts" deal for $70 incl shipping...cant find one locally i'm goint to attemp to download pics of my two 88's for ya...

WAYNE88N/A

Man, a check valve ball getting stuck is still popping into my head every time I read your new posts, but it doesn't make sense that it would "unstick" just because you took the line off. And, if you had blockage upstream of where you're disconnecting the line, you should get a pressurized "squirt" coming out at you, but you keep saying there is absolutely no pressure in the line when you take it off. It's like you're getting some kind of "air bubble" in the pump assy that's causing it not to prime itself correctly or something.
Yeh, the middle B/W wire is the one you want. The other one is used for a "holding" coil in the relay, kinda like a back-up coil, for the sub-zero starting system motor circuit, or, from the starter cut relay, depending on which schematic I'm lookin at. It doesn't make much sense from an electrical point of view to have that second coil in there, it's either designed to energize the relay in sub-zero conditions even if the AFM doesn't, or it's designed to counter-act the main coil and magnetically "shove" the contacts apart (akin to de-energizing the relay), it's hard to tell with the way they've laid out the circuit internals on the schematic. Anyway, back on topic- just shove a jumper between the center B/W and the Blue pins on the bottom of that relay. Use something a little stout, like a large paper clip or .041 safety wire. This will effectively remove the relay and the AFM switch from the circuit, and should supply continuous power to the pump with the key on...Use this jumper for troubleshooting only, remove it as soon as you figure out if it fixes the problem or not...Unless you've already ordered it, don't worry about swapping in an AFM just yet, until we figure out if it's bad or not by jumpering that relay. You can do this jumper thing either first, or in conjunction with the meter idea I refered to earlier (if the relay is jumpered, and you still don't get the 12 volts or so back at the pump connector on a no-start, you've got a bad wire between that relay and that connector)