Installing Turbo Inlet Duct( i think its called that)
11-25-10, 02:27 AM
#1
Installing Turbo Inlet Duct( i think its called that)
Hi guys. My friend I bought my 90 turbo II from gave me a turbo inlet duct( sorry if it's not called that, he just called it that.) So far after i bought the car i changed the oil and fuel filter. Can you guys help me install the inlet duct? Well here are some pictures of my engine bay and the inlet duct. Thanks =)
-Andrew
-Andrew
11-25-10, 10:58 AM
#4
GNARKILL
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the airpump gets it air through that hose connected to the back of your cone filter.
the air pump is pully. driven ive heard, installed and from the front it almost looks like a AC compressor.
the air pump is pully. driven ive heard, installed and from the front it almost looks like a AC compressor.
11-25-10, 10:14 PM
#5
Oh okay thanks. Well i got every thing out. I just need to put my new TID in. Unfortunately my stock TID has two hoses connected to it and a whole plugged. My new TID only has one whole for the hose and one thats already plugged. Do you know how i could get this to work? Is there like a vacuum T or something where i could plug the 2 hoses into the T then the one into my TID? Thanks
11-25-10, 10:21 PM
#6
I installed a custom TID that had one big nipple on it + one small one (instead of 2) I just got a T fitting + some tubing. She works great now. Spool is even more responsive. But be careful how you hook up your air pump... or don't hook it up. I did mine wrong + it wouldn't idle. I would take pics for you but it's snowing outside.
11-25-10, 10:52 PM
#7
Oh okay. Thanks for the info. Mine is like yours. It has the big nipple thats covered and one small one instead of 2. How much did the T fitting cost you? Did you get to fix it and get it to idle? You needed to get more tubing too? The stock ones didn't work?
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11-26-10, 11:46 AM
#11
Yep I got it to work right. I have an apexi filter also. I had the airpump hooked up to the nipple on the air filter. Then I tried hooking it up to the one on the TID. One way the motor will not idle + die (like there's a vacuum leak) the other works. Sorry I don't remember which is which.
But don't be worried. It won't hurt anything unless you have a huge gaping leak + drive around like that for a good amount of time + suck stuff in there.
For the T, just make sure that everything is the right size + sealed properly. Don't remove the one way valve in there.
But don't be worried. It won't hurt anything unless you have a huge gaping leak + drive around like that for a good amount of time + suck stuff in there.
For the T, just make sure that everything is the right size + sealed properly. Don't remove the one way valve in there.
11-26-10, 12:20 PM
#12
F**K THE SYSTEM!!
that TID may increase boost pressure. ANd from your pictures. I see that you do not have a FCD.(fuel cut defender)
Boost above 8-9 PSI without a FCD can cause engine damage.
Boost above 8-9 PSI without a FCD can cause engine damage.
11-26-10, 07:50 PM
#13
GNARKILL
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the two hoses to the TID, ones for the BAC and the other is for the AWS (accelerated warmup solenoid (the aws isnt needed really) so thats why your tid has one hole pluged. but you do need the bac to steady the idle when the headlights and ac turn on and such.
and IMO get a separet breather filter for the air pump.
and IMO get a separet breather filter for the air pump.
Last edited by datz; 11-26-10 at 07:52 PM.
11-26-10, 10:48 PM
#14
Oh. How much would a FCD and breather filter cost? So that TID would increase my boost pressure? Would that give me more performance. Incubuseva are the apexi filters washable? I took mine out and used the K&N recharge kit. I didn't oil it though. I was searching around on google and saw mixed answers about that apexi filter. 1sweet7 you are right haha. This forum has so much information. I love it. Everyone is nice too =).
Thanks
andrew
Thanks
andrew
11-27-10, 03:47 AM
#15
s4 Pride
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A FCD is sold alone by Racing Beat or as part of a chipped ECU unit often times (Rtek for example). A word of caution though - be careful running a FCD if you are experiencing any sort of boost creep or if you eventually make modifications that may induce boost creep. Although you don't want your rear rotor to get fuel cut, at least it prevents you from over boosting and popping the engine by going lean.
11-27-10, 09:11 AM
#16
I'm sorry this is confusing me. What type of exhaust are you running? I do not understand how that TID could be so much more efficient that it would cause boost problems. You do not need a FCD!
If you wish to safely boost above 10psi then you are going to need a stand alone, bigger secondaries, etc.
If your car hits above 10psi of boost you'll know it. It is just like you "hit a wall". I would recommend a good boost gauge, and ditching the electonic boost controller and replacing it with a manual one (cheap as $15.00, or high as you wish to pay for an electronic one).
If you wish to safely boost above 10psi then you are going to need a stand alone, bigger secondaries, etc.
If your car hits above 10psi of boost you'll know it. It is just like you "hit a wall". I would recommend a good boost gauge, and ditching the electonic boost controller and replacing it with a manual one (cheap as $15.00, or high as you wish to pay for an electronic one).
11-27-10, 11:18 AM
#17
F**K THE SYSTEM!!
I'm sorry this is confusing me. What type of exhaust are you running? I do not understand how that TID could be so much more efficient that it would cause boost problems. You do not need a FCD!
If you wish to safely boost above 10psi then you are going to need a stand alone, bigger secondaries, etc.
If your car hits above 10psi of boost you'll know it. It is just like you "hit a wall". I would recommend a good boost gauge, and ditching the electonic boost controller and replacing it with a manual one (cheap as $15.00, or high as you wish to pay for an electronic one).
If you wish to safely boost above 10psi then you are going to need a stand alone, bigger secondaries, etc.
If your car hits above 10psi of boost you'll know it. It is just like you "hit a wall". I would recommend a good boost gauge, and ditching the electonic boost controller and replacing it with a manual one (cheap as $15.00, or high as you wish to pay for an electronic one).
TID dont increase boost pressures? I never tried putting a aftermarket TID on stock turbo.. but this is what happened when i replaced the stocker for an aftermarket piece on my BNR stage 4.
read this https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/too-much-boost-new-intake-piping-14-5-psi-i-cant-lower-all-827566/
11-27-10, 11:19 PM
#18
I installed everything today. My car stills idle, but there was a burning smell on the first start up. I think i had some coolant on my belt so it burned or something. When i boosted it felt the same, but my boost gauge doesn't work anymore. The new TID sounds amazing.
11-28-10, 07:31 PM
#23
The stock boost gauge gets its measurements from the ECU and MAP sensor. Is the MAP sensor plugged in?
And changing out the stock TID for an aftermarket one can definitely have an effect on boost levels. With the stock TID, my stock turbo would choke badly up top. Sometimes as little as 3-4 psi by redline. But with my custom pipe it will make about 7-8 psi at redline (depending on gear).
And changing out the stock TID for an aftermarket one can definitely have an effect on boost levels. With the stock TID, my stock turbo would choke badly up top. Sometimes as little as 3-4 psi by redline. But with my custom pipe it will make about 7-8 psi at redline (depending on gear).
11-30-10, 01:43 AM
#25
Is his name jimmy? The airpump belt driven until by the intake side. Also you will need a T-Fitting for one of the vac nipples. the Map sensor is the until by the passenger side strut tower where the FCD is hooked up to and a single vac line comes out of it.