2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Installing Turbo Inlet Duct( i think its called that)

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Old Nov 25, 2010 | 02:27 AM
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Installing Turbo Inlet Duct( i think its called that)

Hi guys. My friend I bought my 90 turbo II from gave me a turbo inlet duct( sorry if it's not called that, he just called it that.) So far after i bought the car i changed the oil and fuel filter. Can you guys help me install the inlet duct? Well here are some pictures of my engine bay and the inlet duct. Thanks =)
-Andrew
Attached Thumbnails Installing Turbo Inlet Duct( i think its called that)-photo-10-.jpg   Installing Turbo Inlet Duct( i think its called that)-photo-11-.jpg   Installing Turbo Inlet Duct( i think its called that)-photo-12-.jpg   Installing Turbo Inlet Duct( i think its called that)-photo-13-.jpg  
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Old Nov 25, 2010 | 02:31 AM
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I think you bought my friend's car, because he bought that TID from me not too long ago. You will need to remove the airpump.
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Old Nov 25, 2010 | 02:42 AM
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Oh whats your friends name? And air is the air pump the thing connected to that air filter?
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Old Nov 25, 2010 | 10:58 AM
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the airpump gets it air through that hose connected to the back of your cone filter.
the air pump is pully. driven ive heard, installed and from the front it almost looks like a AC compressor.
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Old Nov 25, 2010 | 10:14 PM
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Oh okay thanks. Well i got every thing out. I just need to put my new TID in. Unfortunately my stock TID has two hoses connected to it and a whole plugged. My new TID only has one whole for the hose and one thats already plugged. Do you know how i could get this to work? Is there like a vacuum T or something where i could plug the 2 hoses into the T then the one into my TID? Thanks
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Old Nov 25, 2010 | 10:21 PM
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I installed a custom TID that had one big nipple on it + one small one (instead of 2) I just got a T fitting + some tubing. She works great now. Spool is even more responsive. But be careful how you hook up your air pump... or don't hook it up. I did mine wrong + it wouldn't idle. I would take pics for you but it's snowing outside.
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Old Nov 25, 2010 | 10:52 PM
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Oh okay. Thanks for the info. Mine is like yours. It has the big nipple thats covered and one small one instead of 2. How much did the T fitting cost you? Did you get to fix it and get it to idle? You needed to get more tubing too? The stock ones didn't work?
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Old Nov 25, 2010 | 11:26 PM
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Mine is a different shape, but same concept. T fittings and tubing are cheap.
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Old Nov 26, 2010 | 12:44 AM
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Oh alright. Did you get your idle right? I am kind of scared right now.
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Old Nov 26, 2010 | 01:54 AM
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Lol. Don't be scared. Be informed. You have a lot of reading to do on this forum.
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Old Nov 26, 2010 | 11:46 AM
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Yep I got it to work right. I have an apexi filter also. I had the airpump hooked up to the nipple on the air filter. Then I tried hooking it up to the one on the TID. One way the motor will not idle + die (like there's a vacuum leak) the other works. Sorry I don't remember which is which.

But don't be worried. It won't hurt anything unless you have a huge gaping leak + drive around like that for a good amount of time + suck stuff in there.


For the T, just make sure that everything is the right size + sealed properly. Don't remove the one way valve in there.
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Old Nov 26, 2010 | 12:20 PM
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that TID may increase boost pressure. ANd from your pictures. I see that you do not have a FCD.(fuel cut defender)

Boost above 8-9 PSI without a FCD can cause engine damage.
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Old Nov 26, 2010 | 07:50 PM
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the two hoses to the TID, ones for the BAC and the other is for the AWS (accelerated warmup solenoid (the aws isnt needed really) so thats why your tid has one hole pluged. but you do need the bac to steady the idle when the headlights and ac turn on and such.

and IMO get a separet breather filter for the air pump.

Last edited by datz; Nov 26, 2010 at 07:52 PM.
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Old Nov 26, 2010 | 10:48 PM
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Oh. How much would a FCD and breather filter cost? So that TID would increase my boost pressure? Would that give me more performance. Incubuseva are the apexi filters washable? I took mine out and used the K&N recharge kit. I didn't oil it though. I was searching around on google and saw mixed answers about that apexi filter. 1sweet7 you are right haha. This forum has so much information. I love it. Everyone is nice too =).
Thanks
andrew
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Old Nov 27, 2010 | 03:47 AM
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A FCD is sold alone by Racing Beat or as part of a chipped ECU unit often times (Rtek for example). A word of caution though - be careful running a FCD if you are experiencing any sort of boost creep or if you eventually make modifications that may induce boost creep. Although you don't want your rear rotor to get fuel cut, at least it prevents you from over boosting and popping the engine by going lean.
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Old Nov 27, 2010 | 09:11 AM
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I'm sorry this is confusing me. What type of exhaust are you running? I do not understand how that TID could be so much more efficient that it would cause boost problems. You do not need a FCD!

If you wish to safely boost above 10psi then you are going to need a stand alone, bigger secondaries, etc.

If your car hits above 10psi of boost you'll know it. It is just like you "hit a wall". I would recommend a good boost gauge, and ditching the electonic boost controller and replacing it with a manual one (cheap as $15.00, or high as you wish to pay for an electronic one).
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Old Nov 27, 2010 | 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by LunchboxCritter
I'm sorry this is confusing me. What type of exhaust are you running? I do not understand how that TID could be so much more efficient that it would cause boost problems. You do not need a FCD!

If you wish to safely boost above 10psi then you are going to need a stand alone, bigger secondaries, etc.

If your car hits above 10psi of boost you'll know it. It is just like you "hit a wall". I would recommend a good boost gauge, and ditching the electonic boost controller and replacing it with a manual one (cheap as $15.00, or high as you wish to pay for an electronic one).


TID dont increase boost pressures? I never tried putting a aftermarket TID on stock turbo.. but this is what happened when i replaced the stocker for an aftermarket piece on my BNR stage 4.

read this https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/too-much-boost-new-intake-piping-14-5-psi-i-cant-lower-all-827566/
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Old Nov 27, 2010 | 11:19 PM
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I installed everything today. My car stills idle, but there was a burning smell on the first start up. I think i had some coolant on my belt so it burned or something. When i boosted it felt the same, but my boost gauge doesn't work anymore. The new TID sounds amazing.
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Old Nov 28, 2010 | 12:56 PM
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Follow your boost gauge line. MAke sure it is still connected at its source. The intake manifold most likely.
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Old Nov 28, 2010 | 04:55 PM
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Is it the one with the electrical plug thing?
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Old Nov 28, 2010 | 05:10 PM
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Are you speaking about the cluster Boost guage or an aftermarket one.
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Old Nov 28, 2010 | 07:18 PM
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I'm talking about the cluster boost gauge.
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Old Nov 28, 2010 | 07:31 PM
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The stock boost gauge gets its measurements from the ECU and MAP sensor. Is the MAP sensor plugged in?

And changing out the stock TID for an aftermarket one can definitely have an effect on boost levels. With the stock TID, my stock turbo would choke badly up top. Sometimes as little as 3-4 psi by redline. But with my custom pipe it will make about 7-8 psi at redline (depending on gear).
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Old Nov 28, 2010 | 07:44 PM
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Is the MAP sensor the plug that is connected to the thing after my inlet duct and before my apexi filter? If it's that than yes it's connected.
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Old Nov 30, 2010 | 01:43 AM
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Originally Posted by cloudz
Oh whats your friends name? And air is the air pump the thing connected to that air filter?
Is his name jimmy? The airpump belt driven until by the intake side. Also you will need a T-Fitting for one of the vac nipples. the Map sensor is the until by the passenger side strut tower where the FCD is hooked up to and a single vac line comes out of it.
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