Installing a speaker wire in an 89 RX-7
Installing a speaker wire in an 89 RX-7
I'm just curious if anyone has run new speaker wire to the speakers in their door panels before. I'm not sure how to go about getting the wire into the door as i've never had to do that before. Any help apreciated
One other question, i was seeing how fast my RX-7 would get(i'm 19 and had it a week, what do you expect:P) get it to ~120 in 4th gear(7500 rpm). Shift up to 5th. The car refused to accerate, it just stuck at 5000 rpm. Is this a limit of the hp/torque and the car can't accelerate, or is there some sort of govenor maybee?
Thanks
One other question, i was seeing how fast my RX-7 would get(i'm 19 and had it a week, what do you expect:P) get it to ~120 in 4th gear(7500 rpm). Shift up to 5th. The car refused to accerate, it just stuck at 5000 rpm. Is this a limit of the hp/torque and the car can't accelerate, or is there some sort of govenor maybee?
Thanks
I'm not too sure if I can help you with the acceleration problem, but I can with the speaker wire.
I haven't run it into the doors, but I've run wires all over in my mr2 and undestand how it works. first off you're going to have to pull the carpet back from the footspaces (unless you want to 'ghetto rig' it, which I wouldn't recommend). to do that you need to take the footwell plate off and anything else holding the carpet down (not sure what all there is, I'm going off of my mr2's interior layout, but it still applies). with the door open look in the crack between the door and the car. there should be a plastic wire cover (probably black). inside of the cover there should be speaker wires. if you're going to take the old speaker wire out you'll need a wiring diagram to be sure you take the right wires out. if you're just going to add new wire, run it through the wire holder into the door, and to the speaker. and you can take it from there. I hope that helped.
with your acceleration problem in 5th, is your car turbo or n/a? if its turbo, then I'd think there would be a problem. the n/a has a longer 5th gear ratio (to keep rpms down for cruising/freeway speeds) so it'll need more torque to accelerate (relatively). I did a top speed run in my 86 n/a and in 5th gear at around 112, it accelerated very slowly (around 1 mph every 3 or so seconds). I don't know what top speed of the 89+'s are (since they have more HP) If you're wanting to fix this I can give you 3 pieces of advice. 1: you need more horsepower. bringing up the hp/torque will give the car more umph. higher top speed. 2: swap in a turbo II tranny. as I recall they have a closer 5th gear ratio, so that it provides to be more usable acceleration wise. or 3: both
. again, this is all relative to if you have a turbo II or n/a. if you do have a turbo II I'm not the person to ask, but I'm sure someone will show up with the some info.
I haven't run it into the doors, but I've run wires all over in my mr2 and undestand how it works. first off you're going to have to pull the carpet back from the footspaces (unless you want to 'ghetto rig' it, which I wouldn't recommend). to do that you need to take the footwell plate off and anything else holding the carpet down (not sure what all there is, I'm going off of my mr2's interior layout, but it still applies). with the door open look in the crack between the door and the car. there should be a plastic wire cover (probably black). inside of the cover there should be speaker wires. if you're going to take the old speaker wire out you'll need a wiring diagram to be sure you take the right wires out. if you're just going to add new wire, run it through the wire holder into the door, and to the speaker. and you can take it from there. I hope that helped.
with your acceleration problem in 5th, is your car turbo or n/a? if its turbo, then I'd think there would be a problem. the n/a has a longer 5th gear ratio (to keep rpms down for cruising/freeway speeds) so it'll need more torque to accelerate (relatively). I did a top speed run in my 86 n/a and in 5th gear at around 112, it accelerated very slowly (around 1 mph every 3 or so seconds). I don't know what top speed of the 89+'s are (since they have more HP) If you're wanting to fix this I can give you 3 pieces of advice. 1: you need more horsepower. bringing up the hp/torque will give the car more umph. higher top speed. 2: swap in a turbo II tranny. as I recall they have a closer 5th gear ratio, so that it provides to be more usable acceleration wise. or 3: both
. again, this is all relative to if you have a turbo II or n/a. if you do have a turbo II I'm not the person to ask, but I'm sure someone will show up with the some info.
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 255
Likes: 0
From: Brisbane, Australia
you can run new wiring to the doors where the existing wiring for the power windows runs.(through the rubber tube / covering) make sure you thread it through - do NOT cut any of the rubber gromets and make sure they go back in or it WILL RUST. the rubber can be popped out of the door and car body if you pull on it for easier access.
if you have to cut it, seal the rubber again with silicon, hot glue etc
if you have to cut it, seal the rubber again with silicon, hot glue etc
Yeah, I ran some heavy eight gauge wire from my door panels. I pulled or disregarded all of the stock speaker wire and ran my own. To get the wire into the car, I pulled the panels off the door, wired everything up in there, then ran the eight gauge out the gromet hole of the door and into the gromet hole of the car. I couldn't, for the life of me, pop out my gromet, so I cut a hole a the bottom and a hole at the top, and ran my wire through that way. Used fishtape to pull it through the holes. Then I sealed the gromet back up with hot glue.
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 6,444
Likes: 0
From: Fort Branch, Indiana
I put power locks on my vert and and a power window rollup module hooked to my alarm that rolls the windows up upon arming. Its kinda pain in the ***. Just be careful not to break the little white snap in bracket that the rubber boot holds on to
Originally posted by FoXX
you can run new wiring to the doors where the existing wiring for the power windows runs.(through the rubber tube / covering) make sure you thread it through - do NOT cut any of the rubber gromets and make sure they go back in or it WILL RUST. the rubber can be popped out of the door and car body if you pull on it for easier access.
if you have to cut it, seal the rubber again with silicon, hot glue etc
you can run new wiring to the doors where the existing wiring for the power windows runs.(through the rubber tube / covering) make sure you thread it through - do NOT cut any of the rubber gromets and make sure they go back in or it WILL RUST. the rubber can be popped out of the door and car body if you pull on it for easier access.
if you have to cut it, seal the rubber again with silicon, hot glue etc
Trending Topics
Originally posted by JumpyRoo
Yeah, I ran some heavy eight gauge wire from my door panels.
Yeah, I ran some heavy eight gauge wire from my door panels.
Yeah, the point of the eight gauge was that the particular brand of wire had huge insulation skin, very strong and good for exposing to the outside-like environment between a moving car door that I thought I'd have to use. Then I found the grommet and became happy.
Professional audiofiles don't even use 8 gauge wire for speakers. The size of the insulation around the wire does not determine its "gauge" the diameter of the wire itself is what counts. Monster cable has speaker wire that is about the same diameter as 8 gauge on the outside but the wire inside is only 14 gauge.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
sherff
Adaptronic Engine Mgmt - AUS
9
Feb 24, 2019 12:09 PM
82streetracer
1st Generation Specific (1979-1985)
7
Aug 23, 2015 09:28 AM




