RX7_RaVeN

My roomate(Sublime42o) and I have re-wired the grounds on my 1986 GXL NA from:

Pressure Sensor to top of Block 12ga Wire
Negative Battery Terminal to Chassis to Starter 4ga Wire
Negative Battery Terminal to top of Block 4ga Wire
ECU/Fuel Injector Grounds to top of block 12ga Wire (replaced entire wires..from ECU pins to top of block including the two other grounds that go to the other plug at the ECU), (to seperate wires for injector/ECU grounds, one wire for other two random grounds at ECU)

We also installed a fuel cut switch per instructions from Kevin Landers (<a href="http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2ndgen/tech_fuel_cutoff_switch_unflooding.html#a5">Link</a>). We jumpered the fuel pump plug to check the fuel cut switch. The pump did not come on in either switch position with the plug jumpered and the ignition in the on position.

We're about to go in the garage and test the voltage at the fuel pump and test the fuel pump relay. We are also going to take the fuel cut switch out of the mix to see if that is the culprit. Can anyone think of anything that we may have bypassed when rewiring any of the grounds. Any help is appreciated.

HAILERS

Ah done did rekon ya'll done did make the mistake/error when you redid the ground wires for the ECU. By the way, those gnds ground all the circuits internal to the ECU, not just fuel injector drivers etc.

Ground 24 is on the top of the engine and is the gnd for the ECU.

Ya'll redid the ECU grounds.

See the jpg attached. See the two PINK dots. Those are the sockets on the fuel pump check connector. One wire goes to the Circuit Opening Relay coils negative pin. The other goes to gnd point 24.

Sooooooo, I suspect that maybe when you redid the gnd wires of the ECU, pins 2R and 3A, you seperated the ground from the Fuel Pump Check Connector from ground point 24. Therefore when you jumper the check connector, you get no response from the fuel pump because you did NOT put a gnd on the Circuit Opening Relay coils negative post. Sucker did not pull in. No pull in.......no pump.

What I'd do, is look at that check connector. Find which wire is BLACK and which is BROWN. Put a wire into the BROWN wires socket and the other end of this new wire to a known ground point. Then key to ON. Pump should run.........depending.

Pushing the afm's vane aft won't work, because..........it uses the same ground point that the check connector does.

Just in case you missed it, the gnds at the ECU are at the top of the jpg and have a red line under them. Follow them and you see they both go to gnd point 24 and splice into the check connector/afm ground wire.

RX7_RaVeN

Ok, so all we need to do is run a ground off the brown wire from the fuel pump check connector to the top of the block (or any known ground) and then when we jumper the connector the fuel pump should run when the ignition is in the on position?

Should we run a dedicated ground to the circuit opening relay or will grounding
this be enough?

Is there anywhere on the passenger side of the car, other then the top of the block, where we can run a ground to since we have so many grounds already running to the top of the block? Also, for the grounds running to the top of the block does it matter which pole on the top of the block (we have removed the solineod rack)?

Thanks Hailers!

RX7_RaVeN

OK so we grounded that brown wire from the fuel pump check connector and now it comes on when jumpered with the ignition in the "on" position.

Still curious though..... since we have a 4ga cable running from the neg battery terminal to the top of the block, any of the other bolt holes on the block should work as a ground through that cable back to the neg battery terminal and then to the chassis from there, correct?

HAILERS

Yeah. There are other places on the engine you could bolt that brown wire. But don't do the Brown wire.

I see where I didn't explain or make myself clear. Actually it's the BLACK wire in that two socket, yellow, check connector that needs to be grounded to the engine somewhere. The reason is, that it is the ground wire for the afm also. Once that BLACK wire is grounded to the engine, then you will be able to just jumper the two sockets to make the pump run with key to ON.

You really don't want to ground the BROWN wire permametly. Just ground the BLACK permanetly.

The normal ground path for that and the other ground wires on the engine, would be to the large negative cable on the Starters long bolt and from there back to the battery negative post. If the large wire from the batt neg post to the Starter long bolt is installed good, then that should be enough as far as grounding goes. Plus that same wire also has a branch that goes to the chassis just below the left strut tower.

HAILERS

Just wanted to mention that if you had not mentioned the new grounds etc, I'd have never figured out why the pump didn't work. So thanks for mentioning EVERYTHING that was done to the car. On some posts you get a lot of head scratching and a lot of posts back and forth, then you discover they put a Mickey Teck in the car using a Haltech harness and with a Trader Joe coil pack and left the turbo inlet duct off the engine. Golly gee.

RX7_RaVeN

Totally understandable, without this forum and the people that post on it I'm sure there would be a lot less rx7 owners. So here to you guys.

On a side note check out the website I setup to track progress of the project. There's a pretty cool video posted up now.

<a href="http://people.uncw.edu/farverk">Website</a>

We got the car started after we grounded the fuel pump check connector. At this point we need to work on the idle. Thanks again.