injectors hooked up wrong
injectors hooked up wrong
what would happen if you pluged the injectors harness clips for the primaries in to the secondaries and secondaries into primaries? would the car run?
obviously very rich but would it run at all
obviously very rich but would it run at all
The mixtures would be exactly the same. Why wouldn't they? Low-load drivability would be negatively effected due to the "primaries" now being located further back from the ports.
I would hope that a Haltech dealer would have enough understanding about EFI to know all this. Seriously...
I would hope that a Haltech dealer would have enough understanding about EFI to know all this. Seriously...
It's running SO rich at idle that it's literally shooting 6" FLAMES at 1000 RPM's 
I don't see how it CAN'T be related... It's just a wacky variable... Worth swapping 'em back just to see, IMO.
BTW, everyone's got questions, Haltech dealer or not...

I don't see how it CAN'T be related... It's just a wacky variable... Worth swapping 'em back just to see, IMO.
BTW, everyone's got questions, Haltech dealer or not...
Originally Posted by NZConvertible
The mixtures would be exactly the same. Why wouldn't they? Low-load drivability would be negatively effected due to the "primaries" now being located further back from the ports.
I would hope that a Haltech dealer would have enough understanding about EFI to know all this. Seriously...
I would hope that a Haltech dealer would have enough understanding about EFI to know all this. Seriously...
running good yea baby yea!
do you think the salesman at the chevy dealership knows about the efi system on a corvett, no he just sells the car
i have not yet instaled my first standalone but i will be instaling one next week.
oh and my question about what would happen if the injectors were hooked up wrong has nothing to do with my sig
thanks
ive got killer deals on E6Xs shoot me a pm
Originally Posted by turbine
haltech dealer or not problem solved. you try swhitching them and see what happens!
running good yea baby yea!
do you think the salesman at the chevy dealership knows about the efi system on a corvett, no he just sells the car
i have not yet instaled my first standalone but i will be instaling one next week.
oh and my question about what would happen if the injectors were hooked up wrong has nothing to do with my sig
thanks
ive got killer deals on E6Xs shoot me a pm
running good yea baby yea!
do you think the salesman at the chevy dealership knows about the efi system on a corvett, no he just sells the car
i have not yet instaled my first standalone but i will be instaling one next week.
oh and my question about what would happen if the injectors were hooked up wrong has nothing to do with my sig
thanks
ive got killer deals on E6Xs shoot me a pm

Right on brother!
Originally Posted by turbine
do you think the salesman at the chevy dealership knows about the efi system on a corvett, no he just sells the car
This isn't rocket science. If you swap the plugs, at idle and low load the secondaries will fire instead of the primaries. Unless you've upgraded the secondaries, the injectors are the same size, so the amount of fuel injected will be the same. If the car in question does have upgraded secondaries, you should've mentioned that.
And why would you do this? Only by mistake I hope...
Originally Posted by NZConvertible
Dumb analogy. A Chevy dealership has a service department with trained mechanics. Do you? If you sell it, you should understand it. That applies to car dealers too.
This isn't rocket science. If you swap the plugs, at idle and low load the secondaries will fire instead of the primaries. Unless you've upgraded the secondaries, the injectors are the same size, so the amount of fuel injected will be the same. If the car in question does have upgraded secondaries, you should've mentioned that.
And why would you do this? Only by mistake I hope...
This isn't rocket science. If you swap the plugs, at idle and low load the secondaries will fire instead of the primaries. Unless you've upgraded the secondaries, the injectors are the same size, so the amount of fuel injected will be the same. If the car in question does have upgraded secondaries, you should've mentioned that.
And why would you do this? Only by mistake I hope...
But switching them back fixed it... There's either NOT the same amount of fuel being injected (with the plugs switched), or the ECU was doing something weird in response...
?
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i think it has somthing to timing injector timing
when an injector fires it opens only for a few milliseconds so that fuel is hitting the combustion chamber at a different time during the intake cycle
not the way mazda designed it
oh and i called haltech to ask them a tec question regarding a customer of mine instaling a haltech in a bmw 5 series and the they had to call one of there more experienced dealers to answer my question. so i guess haltech them selves shouldnt sell standalones right?
quit being an *** NZ everyone is new at somthing but we will never know as much as you
when an injector fires it opens only for a few milliseconds so that fuel is hitting the combustion chamber at a different time during the intake cycle
not the way mazda designed it
oh and i called haltech to ask them a tec question regarding a customer of mine instaling a haltech in a bmw 5 series and the they had to call one of there more experienced dealers to answer my question. so i guess haltech them selves shouldnt sell standalones right?
quit being an *** NZ everyone is new at somthing but we will never know as much as you
It took me a max time of fifteen minutes to swap the primary and secondary wires for both rotors at the ECU plug. I also have a OZ Wideband.
The car does not run rich. Just the opposite. It runs extremely lean. In the 18/1 to 23/1 ratio with a fully warmed up engine. It's a gutless wonder and I won't even drive it out of the driveway. Won't idle and shakes at low rpm.
Now I get to spend another fifteen minutes putting things right.
The car does not run rich. Just the opposite. It runs extremely lean. In the 18/1 to 23/1 ratio with a fully warmed up engine. It's a gutless wonder and I won't even drive it out of the driveway. Won't idle and shakes at low rpm.
Now I get to spend another fifteen minutes putting things right.
There's nothing screwy going on with the ECU. It has no idea what injectors are connected where.
The lean reading at idle and shitty running makes sense. The secondary throttles are closed so there's no airflow into the runners where the fuel is getting injected into. With no airflow the fuel will be hitting the runner walls and running down into the engine as a liquid rather than an atomised spray. It won't burn properly so the unburnt fuel and air will pass out the exhaust. The O2 sensor will detect excess air and read lean. The hot unburnt fuel it probably igniting along the exhaust resulting in the flames.
Don't automatically associate flames with a rich mixture. Flames are caused by fuel not being burnt in the engine either because there's too much of it or the correct amount wasn't fully burnt.
The lean reading at idle and shitty running makes sense. The secondary throttles are closed so there's no airflow into the runners where the fuel is getting injected into. With no airflow the fuel will be hitting the runner walls and running down into the engine as a liquid rather than an atomised spray. It won't burn properly so the unburnt fuel and air will pass out the exhaust. The O2 sensor will detect excess air and read lean. The hot unburnt fuel it probably igniting along the exhaust resulting in the flames.
Don't automatically associate flames with a rich mixture. Flames are caused by fuel not being burnt in the engine either because there's too much of it or the correct amount wasn't fully burnt.
Last edited by NZConvertible; Sep 30, 2005 at 07:02 PM.
Originally Posted by HAILERS
It took me a max time of fifteen minutes to swap the primary and secondary wires for both rotors at the ECU plug. I also have a OZ Wideband.
The car does not run rich. Just the opposite. It runs extremely lean. In the 18/1 to 23/1 ratio with a fully warmed up engine. It's a gutless wonder and I won't even drive it out of the driveway. Won't idle and shakes at low rpm.
Now I get to spend another fifteen minutes putting things right.
The car does not run rich. Just the opposite. It runs extremely lean. In the 18/1 to 23/1 ratio with a fully warmed up engine. It's a gutless wonder and I won't even drive it out of the driveway. Won't idle and shakes at low rpm.
Now I get to spend another fifteen minutes putting things right.
as for it not running rich i guess you would know with the wide band.
regardless of, i answered my own question by switching my injectors last night. now the car runs great.
and thanks halers for puting this to the test
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