injector/hesitation
11-13-07, 08:20 AM
#1
Semper
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Alabama
Posts: 1,354
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
injector/hesitation
i have a 88 TII with 1400 miles on a kevin landers rebuild/streetport. i think ive narrowed the hesitation down to the secondary injectors.
first the symptoms. if i go to start accelerating then i get the hesitation...go hesitation...go then its fine and accelerates evenly. it doesnt happen at a given rpm. also when downshifting or just decelerating it feels like its humping the ground.
ive done some searching but i havent found anything that would describe this.
so should i just pull the fuel system apart and get all injectors cleaned or should i go ahead and go with 720cc (low or high?) and run rich till i get my rtek?
first the symptoms. if i go to start accelerating then i get the hesitation...go hesitation...go then its fine and accelerates evenly. it doesnt happen at a given rpm. also when downshifting or just decelerating it feels like its humping the ground.
ive done some searching but i havent found anything that would describe this.
so should i just pull the fuel system apart and get all injectors cleaned or should i go ahead and go with 720cc (low or high?) and run rich till i get my rtek?
11-13-07, 08:35 AM
#2
As always, check your grounds. Do a search on this. the new rtek 1.7 has a hesitation elimination fix.
If it were me, I'd pull the intake manifold to clean the ground under there and change the secondary injectors at the same time. Then I'd pull up the carpet on the passenger side, add an ECU ground, and install a new Rtek 1.7 with the hesitation fix.
If it were me, I'd pull the intake manifold to clean the ground under there and change the secondary injectors at the same time. Then I'd pull up the carpet on the passenger side, add an ECU ground, and install a new Rtek 1.7 with the hesitation fix.
11-13-07, 08:51 AM
#3
Semper
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Alabama
Posts: 1,354
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ive already checked the grounds and cleaned most of them. i cleaned the one under the UIM before i got the rebuild.
im planning on either getting the 1.7 or 2.0 i havent decided yet.
im planning on either getting the 1.7 or 2.0 i havent decided yet.
11-13-07, 01:39 PM
#4
HAILERS
Join Date: May 2001
Location: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
Posts: 20,563
Likes: 0
Received 21 Likes
on
19 Posts
If you let completly off the throttle pedal, the TPS will tell the ECU to cut fuel to both rotors. IF you let off the throttle lightly, then fuel is cut to one rotor only and IF memory serves, the remaining rotor runs a touch richer. Memory on the richer part.
So.........fully heat the engine up and monitor the green/red wire on the tps plug. That is the output wire. IT should read approx one volt dc when the tps is set right. IF not, then turn the tps screw til it does read approx one volt dc.
But that does not tell you if the tps has a bad spot in it. That can only be done using a swing meter and watching the needle as the tps is moved from closed to full open. OR if you had a RTEK2.0 you could watch the tps range on the Palm and see the output as you moved from closed to open and back.
I'm just addressing the *humping the gnd* part of your thread.
So.........fully heat the engine up and monitor the green/red wire on the tps plug. That is the output wire. IT should read approx one volt dc when the tps is set right. IF not, then turn the tps screw til it does read approx one volt dc.
But that does not tell you if the tps has a bad spot in it. That can only be done using a swing meter and watching the needle as the tps is moved from closed to full open. OR if you had a RTEK2.0 you could watch the tps range on the Palm and see the output as you moved from closed to open and back.
I'm just addressing the *humping the gnd* part of your thread.
