Hello guys,

Hope you can help me out.
I own a 1987 RX7 S4 NA and want to set my IDLE, timing, TPS etc. after i've swapped in another engine with a full emission delete.
The problem is: there is no freaking initial set connector in this car.

As far is I'm informed, you guys have the set connector near the coils. It should be a green 2 Pin connector, I only have a green 6 Pin connector with 3 wires pinned in.

After asking this question in a European Facebook group, I've got the answer that you have to have a special tool on European RX7's to set the IDLE, the device looks like this:



I call this BS, yes, for sure there is some fancy special tool for the job, but there has to be another route like your 2 Pin initial set connector.

Does anybody have a solution for my problem?

Thanks in advance guys!

 

not near the coils. other side. by the pressure sensor. on USDM.... make a post in the euro forum?

good luck.

that tool is mazda/ford but its like 90s not 80s.

 

There is no 2 Pin connector on the engine harness going to the AFM or on the body harness in this area but I will double check in a few hours.
next funny thing... there is also no pressure sensor on EUDM cars on the shock tower, i think its in the passenger compartment next to the ECU / front speaker. I noticed this today after checking some engine bay pics of USDM cars, will double check this also.

Good tip with the EU forum, I will also post there

I really hate owning a EUDM car... so much differences to USDM and so little info as over here there is no good community.
only good thing is our lower intake manifold with the vacuum operated 5/6th port actuation... would be a nice item to sell to you US guys

Thanks for your input!

 

The sensor near the ECU is likely an atmospheric sensor which is not the boost/pressure sensor. Secondly the initial set coupler runs to the ECU and not AFM.

 

its a pressure sensor, some also call them boost sensor as far as I've read here, just used the term as it seems to be comon on this forum, atmospheric sensor would be the best description for it, I'm with you.
And those pressure/boost/atmospheric (what ever we would call them) sensors are definitly also on NA cars to compensate for different altitudes, but I think on EUDM cars they are in the passenger area next to the ECU/front sepaker.

Sure the set coupler runs to the ecu, but I wanted to express that I've checked the engine loom in the area of the AFM harness/the part of the engine harness which goes to the AFM and could not find it. I never wanted to say that the initial set coupler goes TO the AFM!

 

The boost/pressure sensor and the atmospheric sensor are not one in the same as they are distinctively different sensors.

And one of the two wires to the initial set coupler is a ground.

 

atmospheric sensor found on the right side of the ECU.

Is this maybe the initial set connector on EUDM engines?
yellow, 2 pin, one is ground

 

It looks like it could be. The Black would be the ground and the Orange runs to the ECU and would have 4 to 7 volts w/key to on and close to 1 volt when the two wires in the coupler plug are jumpered to each other.

 

it is not... it is the connector to jumper the fuel pump

 

you dumb ****.... that's what jumping the initial set does!! lol!

sorry i dont mean to really call you names, its just too funny.

the pump should run and timing is now 5l 20t.
it will also adjust AFR at idle based on the VAR RES.. that is if you get the wax out...heat gun works sometimes. look at the FSM procedure i feel like i am missing something else from my memory... but if i was going to do it i would go over the how to in the FSM.

 

I have to warn you, before you read this post that I myself have very little knowledge of EU FCs, however I have a friend in France who has owned a few EUDM FC's.

From what I gather from him the EU FC has the same 4-injector fuel injection system as the American FC, minus electronic ignition. The EU FC uses a distributor ignition similar in function to the USDM late model FB ignition system. In contrast, the USDM FC uses a distributorless ignition system that runs off of a crank angle sensor as well as other sensors to adjust ignition timing based on load and RPM. The computer on USDM FC's compensates slightly under certain circumstances for ignition retard/advance. The 'initial set coupler' on American FC's 'locks' the timing to allow adjustments without the computer interfering with the timing. (Similar in function to the Ford 'SPOUT' or SPark OUTput connector.)

Mods correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor (also sometimes referred to as the 'boost' sensor) works in conjunction with the AFM and other sensor(s) to control ignition timing on the USDM FC electronic ignition system.

The above being said, I don't see why the EUDM FC would have or need an initial set coupler/MAP sensor, since it doesn't have a distributorless/computer controlled ignition system.

 

i don't know why anyone bothers, i used the coupler one time and since then never bothered to use it again to set timing, idle, tps, fuel trim, etc.

 

I agree, this is funny... but from where should I know?

Everything you have wrote makes totally sense. I think I'm on the completly wrong hunt.
I wanted to do the initial process to be sure to fix my high IDLE Problem and was following instructions Ive found online without thinking too much about it.

My distributor has two vacuum ports to retard and advance Timing on leading and trailing.


@Topic

So my real Problem is that my engine is running on 2000rpm IDLE.
when i start it, it goes up to it's initial 3000rpm like it should and Drops back to 2000rpm.
at this time it sometimes dies and backfires when I try to bump it back up and save it when the rpm's drop.
car is idling better when ist going up to about 40°C coolant temp, then IDLE's fine on 2000rpm.

Reving it seems a little bit laggy, backfires often on decceleration but I think thats the 3inch exhaust with only 2 3" absorber mufflers and 2 inline-DB Killers.

I've already checked for vacuum leaks, None.
I've checked the TPS, is on 1kOhm when throttles are closed.
throttle cable has slack
thermowax is removed, BAC is blocked off.
All other emission related stuff is gone.
intake manifold set screw for the passage to the BAC is fully turned in
All screws on the throttle system itself are where they have to be, the damper thingy is also set up correctly and not holding my throttle plates open (also visually just doublechecked with taking of the rubber elbow)

The car really makes burning fumes in my eyes which correspond to a very lean mixture I think, please correct me if I'm wrong.

could the Timing of the car be so off that the engine runs lean and on 2000rpm?
I have set the CAS during Installation into ist correct Position. pulley marks are also visible.
But I can not really check the Timing on 2000rpm IDLE, could I be so off that the engine IDLE's that high without a vacuum leak?

To this time, I have not f****ed around with the variable resistor.

Thanks in advance for helping me out!

 

i'd actually bet that the Euro FC doesn't HAVE an initial set coupler, the GSL-SE doesn't, and that is basically what the Euro FC is

 

I too once thought the GSL-SE and the EU FC had the same injection system, but I was corrected by my friend:

The EU FC has the same fuel injection as USDM FC with 2 primary and 2 secondary injectors, just without computerized ignition control. GSL-SE has a more primitive setup and has only 2 injectors. Although similar at first glance (because of the distributor) they are two different fuel injection systems.

 

Sorry for the double post, but as for the OP's original issue with the 2k rpm idle:

How well disabled is your BAC? If you're not using it, it shouldn't be on the car or plugged in; and the remaining hole in the intake should be properly blocked off and coolant line ran straight to the thermowax. It sounds like you're still running an Air Bypass Solenoid Valve, since your car is still revving to 3k upon initial startup. This valve is not necessary, and should be properly blocked off as well. (That's why I asked about the BAC.)

The thermowax is handy for cold starts, not sure why anybody would remove that. If you still have it, I recommend putting it back on and setting it up correctly.

I doubt your problem is ignition timing related, assuming your distributor was properly installed- which it sounds like it was. Adjusting the timing a bit off shouldn't have a 1200rpm affect on the idle...

I would still tend to lean toward a possible vacuum leak considering the behavior it has when you apply throttle; the throttle problems might just be timing related though.

Rich fuel mixture fumes (as with most exhaust fumes) will make your eyes burn. FC's most usually run rich.

One last thing, just a shot in the dark here: did you take note of the orientation of the spacer behind the throttle body? It might cause issues if installed backwards.

 

the Euro FC has the 12V afm, like the GSL-SE, and a thermal reactor emissions system, so its actually unique. its outlined in the training manual

 

Thanks for this!
I've been looking for a UK service manual, which I've been unable to find, but I never realised that the training manual actually had information regarding the FC EU points system.