FYI.

These images show the bad state that one of my ball joints was in. The boot was split for who knows how many years. Note the corrosion/abrasion of the ball. This condition caused a mega vibration at speed.

Babbs

 

you are lucky that we are reading a Thread not an Obituary.

 

How true. I actually did my first ever track session with this joint. The funny thing is that the vibration didn't occur on that day (I was getting up to 170 KPH at the end of the straight) and I didn't realize anything was wrong. The vibration started a few days later while driving on the highway at about 100 KPH. I think the track day pushed it over the edge. I checked the vertical play in it before the track day and I recall it being OK. After the vibration showed up, I checked it again and had 3-4 mm play!!! The crack in the boot was subtle and hidden from a casual inspection. Once I removed the joint evrything was obvious.


Babbs

 

I had the same thing on my Vert.
Bad shaking at speed,and I had checked everything.
I knew it had to be something on the passenger side but I couldn't figure it out,so I just kept at that side,re-packing bearings,tie rod,and then went to do the ball joint and Bam!,finally found it.
Mine you could move around like a drunk sailor!,But it never had up/down play.

 

wow

btw what did you use to get that kind of pic resolution?

 

Date Time Original: 2011:10:01 10:26:50
Exposure Time: 1/60
F Number: 5.6
Exposure Program: Normal program
ISO Speed Ratings: 200
Metering Mode: Pattern
Flash: Flash fired, compulsory flash mode, return light detected
Focal Length: 85
White Balance: Auto white balance
Make: NIKON CORPORATION
Model: NIKON D300

 

mmm that camera takes pretty pics.

also, HOLY CRAP, that balljoint was fucked! good thing you caught it when you did

 

If you look closely at the stud and ball picture, you can see a corrision ring near top of the ball. That area was probably exposed to water the most once the boot failed. Shows the power of rust. Like CV joint boots, as soon as you notice one cracked, one should replace the part.

I do feel lucky that it didn't fail on the track.

Babbs

 

+1. in some cases the boot can be fine and water can get in too. there was a bulletin on the mellenia's, when you take it to a carwash, the chemicals they use to clean the wheel gets in to the ball joint, and eats the grease, which eats the ball joint....

 

I just changed mine today. 150k on the chassis and the grease in the "sealed" units looked like grey paste and felt gritty. My boots were in no way bad looking, but there was about 1/4"-1/2" vertical play when pried on. They were causing a wicked steering wheel shake at highway speed and popping at parking lot speeds.

 

The boot on the other side was good and the joint checked out for both vertical and lateral movement. I've kept it as a spare.

 

Could this kind of thing also manifest itself as steering wheel wobble in shallow cornering at 50 MPH+?

 

I haven't felt a wobble during the conditions that you describe. I only felt the vibration at 100+ kph (60+mph) while going in a straigt line. Not sure why the vibration started under those conditions. Natural harmonics of systems are quite complicated in my mind.

Babbs

PS. If you suspect the ball joints, put the car up on stands and test the joints for vertical movement. There shouldn't be any.

 

How do you check for vertical movement? Take the wheel off and and try to move the control arm or what?

 

my ball joints are going bad on my 89 vert...i have used the search and i cant find where the conversion is from s5 to s4 control arms?can i just buy new control arms?can i repack the ball joints if they are not to destoyed? help needed

 

The most common thing causing shallow turn steering wheel shake and low speed what seems like "pulsing" when turning is a bent rim. Not the only cause, but common. Look to the inside bead while turning the wheel.

 

any help?

 

^it's better to find the S4 LCA because the ball joint is bolted on. S5 is integral and costs a fortune to replace. Hit up the classifieds and look for S4 LCA's, then buy new ball joins separate.

 

thanks for the input.i found some they should be on there way on mon or tues....dont i have to change to s4 end links? could i just get adjustable ones from mazda trix?

 

that's a ball joint? I thought I was looking at some science class pic.

time for a new one.

 

You don't need end links for the swap. We are talking about the lower ball joint on the a arm. You shouldn't need to mess with the tie rods at all.

 

If you suspect the ball joints... replace them. A whopping 15 bucks each at rockauto, and really doesnt take very long...

 

not the tie rods....the swaybar endlinks...?