2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

ignition issues?

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Old Nov 21, 2005 | 10:03 AM
  #1  
Rx_treme's Avatar
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From: Glendale, AZ
ignition issues?

Hey guys,

a month or two ago I got my new motor in and broken in. I tuned it everyday on the way to work and ended up being great, I started boosting and eventually worked up to 1 bar under 6k rpm under moderate throttle with no issues.

When i started to push past 6k rpms it wouldnt not go. I have a datalog of it and it just stops at like 6000-6030 rpm. wierd... this is at 11:1 a/f with decent timing. (13*/10*split.)
I also noticed only the rear turbo manifold runner was glowing at night.
I parked the car one night, start it the next morning and went to boost it and it's immediately running worse (more rich) from the get go. It stutters and pops just like the sound of antilag. If you go into throttle/boost slowly you can take it up to 6k (where it stops), however if you try to go full throttle or over 6k it pops and gurgles out the exhaust like its got antilag on. wierd.

First i changed the plugs and made sure all plugs had spark. no change. then i loaded up different maps and checked all settings. no change.

I figured all of this was the rear rotor primary injector sticking open causing an overrich condition.. so i sent them off to marren to have them tested/cleaned. Well all returned within 1% of each other in perfect order. Pop them back in and no change.

**I unplugged the trailing coil and it didnt run much worse but it made both runners glow.**

i plugged it back in and checked spark from all coils, still good. Then i checked the + voltages at the coil, good.

Today I swapped in a known good coil, fired it up and went for a drive. it was dramatically better so i'm thinking great it was the coil. I pull into the driveway and hear a clicking sound, pop the hood and the rotor 2 trailing wire is off and sparking against the block.. wtf. Its still idling so i just unplugged the coil and plugged the wire back on and noticed the spark plug was kinda loose. I pull off the rotor 1 trailing wire and check that plug and its a bit loose too. Its just sitting there idling on leading wires and it just shuts off. HHMMM wtf.

So i'm like well its off I may as well check the plugs that are loose. I pull out the rotor 2 trailing plug and the electrode has a huge glob of metal welded to the inside of it, like the internals of the plug had melted.... and it looks like its contacting the outer edges..
I changed the plugs and go to start it back up and it wont start... WTH.?
All wires still have spark though.
I have yet to hook the laptop up to diagnose but it still powers up(fuel pump, etc). I'll check it out later today..

Why would the plug melt like that? i'll see if i can post a pic sometime its crazy.
Any Ideas??
Thanks in Advance


13bRE streetport
E6K
850/1680inj
Marren PD
Aeromotive FPR
Walbro 255
stock coils
Magnecor 10mm
bur9eq (4)
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Old Nov 21, 2005 | 09:18 PM
  #2  
Icemark's Avatar
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From: Rohnert Park CA
well the burnt plug as you describe suggests major detonation... which leads to seal failure... which means a blown motor.

So, I would first before anything else be checking compression, and then check the EK6 programming because it sounds like the rear rotor trailing timing is way way way off. This would explain the exhaust overheat as well.
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Old Nov 21, 2005 | 11:15 PM
  #3  
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i did the pulse test and it sounded good but havent gotten numbers from it yet. I put new plugs in it tonight and noticed only the 2 front ones are wet.
I was just out dinking around and happened to check the injectors for impedence and the rotor 2 primary is open(bad). Im going to have to get new primaries or at least one and start troubleshooting again. arrrggghh!!

Dont buy Accel injectors!!
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Old Nov 21, 2005 | 11:26 PM
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Compression test it first....

Throttle down all the way as you're testing....remember that...

After you've verified the status of the engine, i.e. blown or not blown...start the troubleshooting process...
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Old Nov 25, 2005 | 11:13 PM
  #5  
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From: Pomona CA
Well the coils if theymay apear to be in good condition, but under certian conditions like after they warm up and the resistance changes may not operate properly. It' s good to make sure you check them when they are hot as well as when cold. check the link it might help.

How to check compression
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