this just started today, but its doing it a lot now-
sometimes, while accelerating, the engine will cut out repeatedly (like hard bucking) and the tach drops fast every time it cuts. it feels like someone is flipping a fuel cut switch really fast. the car revs fine in neutral, idles fine, etc, but under load its cutting out. the tach is dropping much faster than it should so its gotta be ignition. the engine should run w/o the trailing coil, so it would seem as if ignition is being cut to all plugs plus the tach. any ideas?! its only under load! i dont get it.
it never cuts out for more than half a second, it just keeps going on/off/on/off until i take mny foot of the gas, then its fine. start accelerating, and sometimes its ok, sometimes it does the same thing.
plus i have an autox tomorrow :-(

 

update- ithe highest rpm ive had it happen is around 3k rpm. it usually only happens in 1st, 2nd, and every once in a while 3rd gear, and is most common around 2k rpm. a couple times it did it right as i started moving, killing the engine.

 

yeah mine does that too. i was going to ask but i'm lazy.

it would happen to me when i take a corner really hard and floor it but it will cut out like that. I immediately take the foot off the gas and slowly put it back on. now i only get on it in the straight-aways.

 

Check out your primary injectors...Or the circuit to them...

 

if you think it is the ignition, you can check the wires with a timming light while reving. You can check the resistance between the terminals on the coils to see if they are bad and giving you a week spark at higher RPM. when checking with a timming light, hook the pickup up down a little from the coils, try to get it in the middle of the plug wires somewhere. If it is sparking with the light on it and the resistance is good on the coils (check the FSM for ohms) then its gotta be secondary injectors, at least as far as I can tell. The plugs for them DO go bad. check to see if the wires are comming out of the contacts in the plug. Napa or Oriley autoparts sells the replacement injector clips I believe. I think it was some GM part number or something. You can replace the ECU thermo sensor and the BAC with the same plugs also, again, *I think*. Ignition will manifest more symptoms at lower RPMS if it makes serious bucking at high RPMS, fuel wont, the car will just run fine, and them blam! on its face above about 3600 RPMS or so, and then buck real hard (like throw you back in your seat hard!) if you keep your foot in it.

 

This sounds like the primaries, I concur, same with the injector clips, check em out.