StarScreaM2k1

Yes i have searched didnt find anything to specifically help me...So some background information about the car and how it’s been before the FMIC Install

CAR:
88 10th Ann FC, Rebuilt Engine (under 4000Kms on it), Street ported, All Emissions Removed, Rtek 1.7 ECU (n332 (yes I know it should be n333…long story behind this)), Secondary Injectors 720cc, Hybrid S5 Turbo, Stock Intercooler

BEFORE FMIC INSTALL:
The car was good, she ran fine under all conditions the only 2 issues I had with it were 1) there was a surging idle going from 900-1400RPM and I think I nailed it to being to my old school HKS BOV (had 2 vac inputs, but only 1 was hooked up and hence it leaked a little bit). 2) It wouldn’t keep idle if I turned it on from being dead cold. It would have to get a bit warm then she would be ok but would idle at 1400RPM (surging as I said before). Other then that she ran great boost would build by 2000RPM and hit full boost by 3500RPM (approx 11psi). Now I should add the person that built my motor tried to get her to idle at 1000 but couldn’t really do it because they didn’t discover the BOV leak at the time so those settings may also be in play (but I don’t know how to adjust that or where to do it even since I have no emissions). The BOV as said above was found out later and by that time the car was coming off the road so I didn’t really have to fix it as I had the Greddy Kit ready to go in.

AFTER FMIC INSTALL:
The only things that were changed here were from the TMIC to a FMIC and swapped BOV’s to a TurboXS BOV from the HKS. The install went like every FMIC install a PITA but once she was done I turned her on and it was good no hesitation gave her a few good revs and the BOV went off, it wasn’t leaking so all set. I then chopped up the front bumper hooked up my Lights and turn signals bolted the bumper back on popped on the tired and took her off the jacks. Then I turn her on and she’s all hesitating, not keeping idle. I then decide to warm her up and take her for a spin. She’s bogging all the way thru and I decide maybe because she’s been sitting all winter in storage so after getting her to operating temp and all that I decide to give her a good tug. I do and the boost doesn’t hit where it usually does then all of a sudden... it hits but I let off the gas (around 5500 RPM). I decide to give her another go and at around 6000 RPM I hear POW and the car just bogs and then dies and I can’t turn her back on. I look under the hood and the coupler from the Greddy TB Elbow to the Pipe popped off… So I fix that and she turns on but cant hold idle and is basically running like a bag of ****, so I limp her back home not hitting any boost. For whatever its worth my battery died before me taking her out for a spin so I got a boost and she was alright from what I can see.

PROBLEM:
So right now she can’t hold idle, hell right now she won’t even turn on and I don’t understand. It’s like its progressively getting worse. Like from turning on fine and all that, to no idle or anything to now not even starting. I have a bunch of connectors that are not connected and can’t tell if they have to be connected or they are apart of the removed emissions. Any help would be appreciated guys….

I have included pictures on the link below so you can see some of the pics of my setup and the connectors that are not connected and what I need to do with them or whatever.
http://www.rotaryrevolution.net/pics/1.jpg
http://www.rotaryrevolution.net/pics/2.jpg
http://www.rotaryrevolution.net/pics/3.jpg
http://www.rotaryrevolution.net/pics/4.jpg

These last 2 pics are just there if maybe this is causing and issue? 2 ‘t’s in the vac line (any better way to do this?)
http://www.rotaryrevolution.net/pics/5.jpg
does it make a difference how high or low the pressure sensor is?
http://www.rotaryrevolution.net/pics/6.jpg

StarScreaM2k1

been looking into this more and more... i am beginning to think it maybe something with my Fuel. Either the pump aint going, or the filter is clogged, or something.... Its the only thing that can explain how it was fine before and how its dying now and now not turning over.

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

Well, first I'd say the problem you had when you took it for a drive (the idling/no boost AFTER the FMIC install) would be from a loose coupler, meaning vac/boost leak.


Its hard to say what now though.....do the plugs get wet when you're cranking it? Have you pulled them out and made sure they're sparking and not fouled?

fusion-turbo

Check all the couplers to make sure they're tight so you have no other possible leaks