FC3sBoosted

As some have you might have read in the past couple weeks i've had a problem with what i believe is not getting fuel thru the injectors. i was about to take the upper uim off again today when i noticed this wire that comes off the side of the engine to the fuel rails. by side of the engine i mean the passenger side below where the Uim bolts to the Lim.

the pictures arent the greatest, but the white/black wire coming down from the top right of the pic is the one i need identified. where it connects to the rubber fitting the wire is frayed near the point of breaking, the white side has only about 3 of the strands of wire still connected. if this goes to the primary fuel rail could that be my problem with not starting?

thanks again for any responses. been trying to narrow this problem down for a bit now, and all the vac has checked out ok. thanks for your time and hopefully the solution to this nagging problem.

NZConvertible

It's a solenoid valve on the ACV. It's nothing to do with the fuel system (it's on the other side of the manifold to the primary fuel rail) and it's not the cause of your problem.

You do need to fix it though before it shorts and blows the EGI fuse. Cutting the wires and taping them up separately would prevent this. Unless you have strict emissions testing, you'd never know it wasn't connected.

In fact check the EGI fuse first. If you've already blown it, that'll be why it won't start.

FC3sBoosted

the fuze is good, that was one of the first things i checked before testing to make sure i was getting fuel after the fuel filter

how would i go about tapping them since they're frayed right where they connect to the rubber fitting? just solder and make sure i keep the power/ground separated so i'm not grounding anything out and blowing the fuze anyway?

and i was told before to try disconnecting the fuel recirculating hose and jump the fuel check connector, but was never told how. any tips of how i would go about doing that? i'm more mechanically inclined than electrically when it comes to things of that nature so i just want to be safe. i know i'm getting fuel at least to the engine bay, but i was told that was how i would check to make sure i'm getting fuel at the rails

NZConvertible

Actually now that I've thought about it you don't even need to cut or tape or solder anything. Just follow the wires back to the connector and unplug it.

Disconnect the fuel return hose at the fire wall (not the one with the filter, the other one) and put a small container under it to catch fuel. Jumper the yellow fuel pump check connector with a bit of wire or a paperclip and turn the ignition on. Fuel will come out the open hose. All this really proves is that the fuel pump is working.

HAILERS

That solenod on the ACV is the split air solenoid and only gets energized when you put the lever in fifth gear. The black/white has 12v any time the key is ON or better and the gnd on the other wire is there only when the shifter is put to fifth. So, it's not even used for the emissions testing when you get right down to it.

I'm just reinforcing what was said above by the Kiwi, nothing more, nothing less.

FC3sBoosted

very comforting to know that i dont need to get into a bunch of electrical crap. last thing i wanted to do right now, expecially with all the rain and no covered area to work on my car. thanks very much for the help, i'll keep you posted once i've had more time to look at it

FC3sBoosted

so i ended up having it sent to Jerry's Little Car Shop in Kent, WA. because i just didnt have the time to tear anything else apart to check stuff out. everything had power and i was getting spark. and there were zero vac leaks. after running a diagnostic they found that the ecu for some reason or another (possibly ground or relay) wasnt telling the injectors to do their thing. on a side note i love the shop so far. they've been extremely speedy. i'm not a huge fan of spending cash on labor but they've been handling everything quickly and efficiently, big props to them.