DCmina

...none of the LEDs went on.
You put the LEDs in this green thingy right?

DCmina

And you turn this right?

DCmina

Also, when the car isn't on, is the TPS supposed to be all the way in? Mine has like half an inch of clearance but when I press it, the light comes on.

Help!

Thanks!

DCmina

Actually, the hook thingy to the right doesn't press in the TPS at all.
But when I press the TPS a little one light turns on, which is good.
My question is, do I have to move the TPS closer or is it the hook thingy to the right of it?

Thanks!

Mobius

Where did you get the proceedural information for this type of adjustment? If I knew more about what you're trying to do exactly, I might be able to help.

That "green thingy", this looks like a check connector but I am not sure.

What do Light emitting Diods (LED's) tell you about how to adjust the position of the throttle?

HAILERS

My car is a poster child for a proper and correct tps. The plunger is sticking out from the bore by .3215 inches when its just sitting there with a cold engine and the *hook* thing resting against it. You can shove it into the bore, but its nowhere near 1/2 inch. I think you might have over estimated the distance. Measure yours with the hook resting against the plunger. Is it the same distance as mine??????? How much more?????? You turn the screw both ways and it does not work?????? Hey, do you have a digital meter???????????????????????

DCmina

I followed there directions.

http://home.rmci.net/panther/tps.htm

My car idles at 5000 RPM and that's whay I wanna adjust my TPS.

Here's what my TPS look like:


TPS-> ///////////////OOOOOOOOOO <-Hook thingy

None of the LEDs were on.

But If I press the TPS like this:

TPS-> //////////// ....... OOOOOOOOOO

I can get one LED to turn on.

The thing is, the adjust screw doesn't go far enough for it to be adjusted, so I wanna either move the TPS a little to the right, or the hook thingy to the left.

Which one should I do? Will this work? Does it move differently depending on the temperature? Or if I press the gas?

Thanks!

Mobius

Well, I read the tutorial.

I have a suggestion that doesn't include moving anything.

why not move anything? Well because it shouldn't have to be moved in any creative way. You may make the problem worse. You may be putting a bandaid on a person having a heart attack.

Now, because the ECU is involved, I suggest trying to reset the ECU. I believe that this can be done like this:

When the car is running disconnect the negitive battery terminal and let it run for a little while, like ten minutes or so. During this time, I believe the computer should recalibrate. Then, turn off the car reconnect the battery start it up and take aim at the tps again.

Another thing. I'm sure you know how to adjust the idle, right. And Why did it start idling at 5000? That's alot. I mean, that's alot, alot.

Did you remove the throttle body before this problem, or did an evil gnome make it through the air box all of the sudden? If you did remove the throttle body before this idle prob, I have some other suggestions.

DCmina

It used to idle at 1000 before, but stuff happened and then the car idled at 2000, then 4000 and now 5000.

Here's what the car endured:
-Got new radiator (mechanic took out air box, maybe he didn't put it back right?)
-Got new battery
-Car got flooded



Thanks Mobius! I will try the battery way! Do I have to press on the brake a few times? I read that you were supposed to do that in another thread.

Oh and what is a throttle body?

Thank you very much!

FoXX

what are the other suggestions? i'd like to know, thanx

HAILERS

Oh GRUMP! How come you did not say what your real prolem waa in the first place. The TPS is not causing your problem. Your darn throttle plates are too far open, much like having your foot on the throttle. Make sure there is SLACK in you throttle cable. Then look at that little throttle stop screw on the fwd side of your throttle assy. Little tiny screw with a eight mm jam nut on it. Does it touch the moving part of the throttle lever? GRUMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMP. Any other things not mentioned. Maybe a giant porting job??????? Forget the TPS. Your problem is the throttle is open for one reason or maybe the other. Jimmy Crickets etc.
PlS. The car has to fully warm, no make that the engine has to be HOT, prior to setting the TPS. The throttle rests on a FAST IDLE CAM which works off a thermo wax device and that FAST IDLE CAM will not come off the ROLL PIN until the car is fully warmed up. If you do set the TPS with the engine anything other than HOT, then yu just wasted precious minutes out of yur life. Like wiping sand off your feet and putting them right back in the sand and wondering why there is sand on your feet.

DCmina

Ok thanks Hailers, I'll try that when I get back from school.

tesla042

Whoa...is that what i am supposed to test it? I always just physically disconnected the tps wiring harness, and tested the resistance there....

-Tesla

HAILERS

No TESLA, you did right. There seems to be a couple of ways to check the TPS. One uses the two bug lights at the connector shown in the picture. The other method takes the connector off the tps and uses a meter to set the tps. On that method you also check out the pot in the tps for opens. Either way works.
Wrote my first post this morning at five and was not quite in the civilized world at that time. Just want to emphasize that the engine HAS to be fully warmed up prior to setting the TPS, although there is a way to get around that, but you shouldn't work around that.
There's also a method where you warm the engine up fully and then put the positive lead in the back of the real TPS connector and the other lead on a good ground. Then adjust the TPS until ONE volt shows on the meter. The wire that you shove the positive lead into is the Green wire with the Red stripe. That method is for someone who is condident that he does not have a corrupt TPS. If you suspect the tps being crummy, then use the ohms method.

Mobius

Hailers probably nailed it good. When I replaced my fuel injectors once I had the cruise control cable snaging up the throttle. I didn't notice this when the I put the throttle body back on.

So when i went to start it for the first time it went all the way to 5000 and then to redline. Took me 3 hours to figure out that the cable was snagging and opening the throtle plates up.

Mobius

The throttle body is the that big thing with four metal ports bending from the lower intake all the way up to, and includes the dynamic chamber that says MAZDA 13b Fuel Injection. Sometimes its called an upper plennem.

The dynamic chamber is where the throttle plates are. As hailers suggested, probably, most likely, in your case they're open for some evil reason or another. Throttle Cable is being jacked by a Demon or Tree Fairy.

I have an extra throttle body sitting in my garrage that has the same problem: The plates are permanently open so Ill monkey around with it if you can't figure out why yours might be screwed up too.

Mobius

oh yea, I don't believe that you have to press on the break or anything.

HAILERS

Hey DC. You might want to download the 88 factory service manual to your hard drive. ITS FREE! And located at http://www.iluvmyrx7.com/Technical_I...ice_manual.htm I'd suggest downloading the fuel section for non=turbo cars first, then the rest of the manual. That manual will cost over 80 bucks at Mazdatrix or wherever. Really a handy item to own. The fuel section has fairly good graphics and comes in handy when someone says *thermowax* or *throttle body* or *fast idle cam*. Everything has to have a proper name. Not hard to understand the manual, its straight forward. I truly do believe that the tps is not the problem, but rather something or other is holding the throttle plates open just a bit too far. The fuel section has a good graphic of how to check the basic throttle plate rigging and setting the fast idle cam etc. You did check your throttle cable for having just a smidge of slack in it, right?//

DCmina

I tried to reset the ECU, and now there's only about 1/4 inch needed to make one light turn on.

I'm gonna check my throttle cable, if I can find it!

Any chance they show you how to do it in the Haynes manual? I have a very slow connection so it'll take years for me to download the manuals.

DCmina

So do I just pull on the throttle cable? How loose does it have to be?

HAILERS

You can see where the throttle cable comes out of the interior. Follow it to where it mounts to the engine on the left side of the engine. With your hand reach behind the engine and follow the cable. Once you find the cable, stare at the place where you screw the screw for the tps. Notice if you press on the throttle cable that screw moves. What you should have, is a situation where you can push down on the cable say a 1/8 inch and you should see no movement of the throttle lever where the screw is. Shove on the cable a few times to get a feel for it. It should not be so tight that when you breath on it that the throttle linkage moves. Should not be dead tight. Shucks, I can't describe it any better. I'm curious if the car idles lower since you did what Moribus suggested with the ECU?

DCmina

Well It now idles at 4500 instead of 5000 RPM.
The TPS still needs to be pressed 1/4 inch to get one LED to come on.
I hope I will manage to fix my car tomorrow! Haven't driven it in 2 weeks.

Keith

Um, excuse me, am I missing something here??? DCmina says he has to press the TPS in 1/4" to get a light to come on, yet he says his car is idling at 5000 rpm! I know I don't have an N/A anymore, but I cannot imagine this! If something was holding the throttle open enough for the car to maintain 5000 rpm, wouldn't the TPS be pushed in, like, halfway? It is supposed to be fully depressed by 1/3 throttle! DCmina states in an earlier post that not only is the TPS not halfway in, it is not even pressed in at all! The fact that one light will come on when it is pressed in verifies that the piston on the TPS is fully extended! With enough throttle to run the engine at 5000 rpm! I wish I still had an N/A, because I need to look at what part of the linkage could screw up royally enough to cause this apparent contradiction. HAILERS? Anyone else with an N/A, what is the missing piece to this puzzle?

Irv, Keith's dad

DCmina

Err, I have a question, what does depressed mean? Pushed in or out?

Oh and I wanna ask, when the TPS is pushed in, the motor idles lower right? And when it's released, the RPMs go up?
I tried to reset the ECU, but it only dropped by 500 RPMs.
Am I supposed to reconnect the battery before turning the car off, or after?

I tried to make a drawing.

relvinnian

Yes, the Haynes manual will show you the cable HAILERS is referring to. Just find "throttle body removal", and it will refer you to removal of the throttle cable. Then you'll see the lock nut he's talking about, and you'll probably see how if the tension is too high, it will stick the throttle open