NativeBeggars

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Continuity on B/G rang out and had between 0.5 and 1ohm.

satch

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Then if the B/G wire at the relay has voltage then it must therefore have voltage at the B/G wire at the interlock because it is the very same wire.

NativeBeggars

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10.4vdc at the B/G on interlock harness side. I guess I'm just not great at diagnosing these electrical gremlins yet. Gonna test B/R in the same manner and then test battery+ at the starter for volts. As previously stated, when I tried to jumper the starter with key to on, I only got some sparks jumped to both the excite and the armature itself. I suppose that starter wire could be bad too.

NativeBeggars

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Tested battery+ at starter, had 11.5vdc. Excite with key to start, 12.8vdc. Armature read hot too. As I tested armature, it busted right over. Just had positive lead on armature stud and negative at the starter ground. Now it turns over. This is weird and I am confused.

Now I just need to figure how I can get her right since it sounded like she runs on one rotor. I'm gonna pull the plugs and check them, I'm fairly certain I need wires too but I'm gonna go ahead and test them again. Last time I looked, trailing wires had some resistance.

Can someone explain these goofy phenomenae?

After this, it will be time to address my code 27 problem. I'll begin with that by warming her up and checking both plungers of TPS.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Make sure the ground cable to the starter is clean as well as the positive cable at the starter. Low amps could cause a weak starter as well as the starter solenoid being problematic. You could also have worn brushes perhaps at the starter. Sometimes hitting the starter w/a hammer can bring it back to life temporarily.

NativeBeggars

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Lol alright. It is an original starter after all so I'm sure it has some wear. Got a big N326 sticker on it.

She still doesn't want to actually run. Powerful, even puffs when hand crank it as well as with the starter. I guess it's time for a compression test.

Are fresh rebuilds typically a little difficult to start for a little while? When it does finally catch if it does, it sounded like it ran on one rotor just now when it didn't before. I know I still have some timing adjustments to do, so I may play with that until it's right again.


EDIT. She quit starting again so I'm going to check all the grounds again and possibly run a new one.

satch

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Engine could be flooded, low compression, and a starter which does not spin fast enough could prevent a car from starting.

NativeBeggars

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It's probably because it wasn't getting fuel. I say so because I found a puddle of what looked like oil between the block and the LIM. Smells strongly of gas. Tear the manis off and find gas everywhere, seemingly coming from the primary rail where they meet the injectors, as the rail was dry and the injectors were wet. THE PD WAS COMPLETELY DRY, as was the line. That was my first fear.

I'll be in search of a full o-ring kit for these injectors to include new rings where they meet the mani/block and where they meet the rails as well as the smaller o-rings. I have thought about getting some extra injectors too, as I cracked the end off one of the green plastic covers on the injector nozzle side while wiping it clean with a rag. I don't know if that is replaceable or not to be honest.

Another setback is okay I suppose. I'll get back to the starter issue later. Here's another opportunity to learn.

NativeBeggars

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I have been searching for some days now a method to removing my rats nets altogether. Thigs I do not have include - ACV, air pump, aux ports, straight exhaust.

Dale Clark's writeup in the archives is excellent, but if I'm not mistaken applies more to a S4? I have been looking for something more S5 specific and can't find anything beyond "it's an s5 with the vacuum rack removed". I don't fear running new fuel lines and I thinl it would really clean up the bay some. I have also looked for the fuel rail bleed screws Dale refers to, which I don't seem to have on my S5. What's the forum's opinion on the orange plug?

NativeBeggars

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Nobody has any input on S5 rats nest removal? This needs to get done asap! And if need be, I'll wander my way into the dark and write it up when I'm finished for an all-around, S5 NA specific rats nest removal writeup.

satch

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Usually removing the rats nest just opens a can of worms and accomplishes little if anything of value. You'll have a better chance of righting the ship by keeping things as stock as possible.

NativeBeggars

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Right. I'm already far beyond stock as for driveability features as stated, so would it really not do me any good to remove it? If nothing else but the crankcase vent and fuel lines need to be run, that does seem way easier. What kinds of worms to people see when they remove this stuff? Is it mostly computer/electronic or is idle etc going to be affected?

Just trying to learn more.

satch

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Idle to overall running issues I believe.

NativeBeggars

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I'll do some more searching and implore all gurus to please give your inputs and anecdotes on this as well. I have personally disassembled several engines that have had the vacuum routing all cut up which is unacceptable to me too. I desire a cleaner bay but also to remove everything I don't need. If I have a bunch of stuff taken off to begin with why do I need the rest?

I don't see why it would be a big deal in theory if all vacuum nipples were properly capped, sealed or routed elsewhere.

On a seemingly-related note, how might I go about testing the dashpot, and what are symptoms of it working improperly? Can't I remove this as well as the double throttle?

satch

iTrader: (1)

The plastic piston which juts out of the Dashpot should have some resistance when pressing in but release rather qiuckly. As the throttle linkage separates from the Dashpot it should do so at close to 3000 rpm. The exact figure is in the fuel and emissions section of the FSM.

NativeBeggars

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Mine doesn't hardly return at all and has resistance in the piston so I'll swap with another I have.

I really have been searching here, other forums and rotary sites as well as google for a straight s5 na vacuum diagram. My vacuum rack serves almost NO purpose other than moving fuel and PCV so it's just sitting in there and I want it gone. I don't use any vdi/acv/6pi etc and do not have an air pump so it's wasted space. I do have some plans to make a catch can too. I just need the vac diag so I know what I need to pull and what needs to stay. Anybody have a good diagram they can post up? Honestly I'll probably print it, colour it all in and scan it back in for all to see.

I need this car running asap. I want it to be as simple and uncluttered as possible. Should I just stack the manifolds back on and give it a whirl? They were off after my leaking fuel issue which should now be solved with fresh o-ring kits on the primaries.

NativeBeggars

iTrader: (1)

I said forget the rack removal for now and carefully reinstalled the injectors and manifolds. It still doesn't start after sealing up all vac leaks etc.

I'm going to change plugs and hook up a booster battery to make sure everything is well. Cranks great and nice loud bumps of compression as it turns, but how effective is a cold compression test? The car will not start.

The rebuild does only have 25miles on it and when I can get it to turn over it sounds strong. Still experiencing this annoying starter problem. Going to try and add a ground to the starter. I have already cleaned and tried several locations for the factory starter ground.

I'm ready for someone else to get it running for me as ridiculous as that sounds. I have wasted so much time on it and I can't any more.

NativeBeggars

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Been a few days now but I finally got some time to pay attention to my love again.

When I tested the armature last time, it would only turn when I had hot on the armature and ground to the short starter bolt. So I added a 4awg ground there and still nothing. It turned a few times so I could try and crank it but I got nothing after two or three tries. What the heck could this actually be? I'm gonna be mad if I have to go buy a starter and bam it turns every time.

For a compression test - am I looking for three even bounces OF 90+psi or three bounces TO 90+psi? Hot engine or cold?

I still can't get it to start but sometimes it tries hard and others it just spins. Could I have premixed too heavy? I verified spark with a couple spare plugs I have and got yellow arc in between the plug and body. I hear you should have a strong, blue audible zap from the plug? When I pull the plugs and clean them, I have gunk all over them and they are slightly wet with gas. Definitely just gas/oil and no coolant. I wanna blow all the gunk out of the housings by spinning with no plugs in, maybe add a little 2-stroke and try to make her fire.

What do you guys think?

satch

iTrader: (1)

Sometimes a wet plug is a ruined plug while other times it's not. A heat gun or blow dryer might aid in drying the plugs out. A hot engine will produce higher compression results than a cold engine. And a 1 to 2 second shot of starter fluid into the air intake w/the fuel pump disabled should burn off any excess fuel in the housings.

Also, the spark plug should have an ohm reading when measuring the electrode and the metal outer shell. If it's really low then the plug is fouled.

NativeBeggars

iTrader: (1)

Thanks satch. This particular set of plugs has been through hell already. I'll go ahead and re-up on some more and run these until they aren't coming out wet. They have seen assembly lube and wheel bearing grease too, from my initial spins after the build.

NativeBeggars

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The plugs when I could get it to stay connected, bounced any and everywhere between 0 and 14k but spent most of their time under about 3k ohms. All of them did this.

satch

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Not sure what you mean by connected as they would be measured while in hand.

NativeBeggars

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I meant with both leads on the plug. Are those numbers too low? It would only be like 14k for a split second then down to 2 or 3 before bouncing in the hundreds down to zero.

satch

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And notice how the tests are done w/the plug not in hand.

NativeBeggars

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Hello again all. I finally got some time to work on the car uesterday. I laid underneath and attacked the starter, block and wiring with the sandpaper roll/wire wheel on my dremel and now the starter kicks nice and hard every time and she fires right up.

My problem I'm having still is when I put her under load. I of course still get codes 30 and 33 from acv/6pi delete, but even after the OMP delete [it IS still plugged in] I get code 27. Some searching suggests to tear into the ecu and see if I have anything burnt. My ecu is n350. I have heard to check the front turn signals for corrosion as it could fry the ecu, and I'm trying to avoid getting an rtek just yet unless it's necessary. Any other ideas? Is the fsm accurate in terms of testing wiring of this s5 omp system?

The last time I rebuilt this engine, I got the code for about two weeks and kever saw it again until now - right after another fresh build. Guess I'll see what's up with it as she gets more miles on her. Got 34 now heyoooo!

She also won't start hot now. Does the same thing as it did before.