Yup. But before I rip the manifold off to search for the leak...I noticed a crack in the inlet duct leading to the motor after the AFM. It's along the side of it and while I put it on I used a hose clamp to tighten it together.

What I wanted to know is that if this would be a major reason for the car not staying on.

When I turn the key, the motor cranks, and pops (mainly cause I have no exhaust on it) and turns on for a bit. But it dies. I believe that this is the cause of a vacuum leak.

Other things that might be wrong is the fact that the shell was sitting for a year with a 1/4 tank still in it...could it be bad gas? I tried using the fuel stabilizer to get the gas in working order...

By the way. The car was a s5 NA GXL swapped to s5 Turbo engine...

Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.


-Seven.

 

does it idle when you keep your foot on the gas after it starts up?

if the afm is not reading right then the car won't idle. if there is a vacuum leak, it will not read properly, read; that crack will casue the afm to read incorrectly.

 

Well if I let the foot of the gas it dies.

 

does it idle after it has warmed up?

 

It doesn't make it to the warm up phase. It's like this...I'm slow cranking it because it is an imported engine from Japan. So I don't want to force it. Everytime I crank it there's a loud pop sound coming from the exhaust. Also it'll stay on for 2-3 secs then die.

 

ok, pull the plugs and do a compression test. if you don't have access to a tester, at best you can turn it over with the plugs out and the egi fuse out and listen for three distinct and even "chugs" to verify that you have some compression. have you tried keeping your foot on the gas until it warms up? or putting some atf in the brake booster vacuum line to get compression?

 

No, I had it tested already. Over 100 on each rotor. I haven't tried holding the gas.

 

nobody else?