I think I blew something (hopefully not my engine)
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From: Vancouver, Canada
I think I blew something (hopefully not my engine)
I started it today, and when it started i heard a pop pop pop sound, but it wasn't an overly loud sound, just a noticeable sound. I dismissed it thinking it was just something wierd. And while i'm sitting there waiting for the car to warm up, my car starts shaking.
It was shaking quite a bit, so i thought maybe something messed up when i started so i turned it off and started again, this time, I had to hit the gas get it to start (i've been needing to do that for a while i'm told cause my fuel injectors are kinda leaky). And it was shaking again, so i figured i'd see if it'd clear up if i drive, i back out, then while i'm shifting into 1st, it stalls on me while i have the clutch down. So i'm like ****, maybe i blew the engine....but i thought there's supposed to be a lotta smoke and a really bad smell that comes out when that happens?
Well i started it back up and i needed to get my car home, so i drove it and i had to rev it while i was stopped everytime cause it would just stall. It was running really loud, shaking a lot, and not much power when i stepped on the gas.
These sound like symptoms of a blown motor? or possibly something else?
It was shaking quite a bit, so i thought maybe something messed up when i started so i turned it off and started again, this time, I had to hit the gas get it to start (i've been needing to do that for a while i'm told cause my fuel injectors are kinda leaky). And it was shaking again, so i figured i'd see if it'd clear up if i drive, i back out, then while i'm shifting into 1st, it stalls on me while i have the clutch down. So i'm like ****, maybe i blew the engine....but i thought there's supposed to be a lotta smoke and a really bad smell that comes out when that happens?
Well i started it back up and i needed to get my car home, so i drove it and i had to rev it while i was stopped everytime cause it would just stall. It was running really loud, shaking a lot, and not much power when i stepped on the gas.
These sound like symptoms of a blown motor? or possibly something else?
Wait................What?
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 521
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From: Raleigh/Cary, NC - USA
First things first.
Are ya good on gas?
Simple question... but sometimes when you get really low on gas... all the sediment from 14+ years gets caught on the pump's sock filter. This can restric fuel from getting in there. Easy way to get the **** off is to just fill up the tank.
Number 2. Did you check engine light come on?
If so... pull ECU codes.
Search for information on how to do this.
Next, if any codes appear and you fix the problem(s) or if you didn't pull any codes period... check your vac hoses. Check your plugs while you're at it too.
I don't know if this is a 're-occuring' thing with FCs or not... but just some trouble shooting I would start out with.
Are ya good on gas?
Simple question... but sometimes when you get really low on gas... all the sediment from 14+ years gets caught on the pump's sock filter. This can restric fuel from getting in there. Easy way to get the **** off is to just fill up the tank.
Number 2. Did you check engine light come on?
If so... pull ECU codes.
Search for information on how to do this.
Next, if any codes appear and you fix the problem(s) or if you didn't pull any codes period... check your vac hoses. Check your plugs while you're at it too.
I don't know if this is a 're-occuring' thing with FCs or not... but just some trouble shooting I would start out with.
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Joined: Apr 2003
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From: Vancouver, Canada
yup, i'm good on gas 
check engine lights did not come on...i didn't really look though, but if it was on, i'd definitely notice it.
i'll check the codes hopefully tomorrow when it's brighter out
btw, nice car poor red neck, mine's a blue 89 also
check engine lights did not come on...i didn't really look though, but if it was on, i'd definitely notice it.
i'll check the codes hopefully tomorrow when it's brighter out
btw, nice car poor red neck, mine's a blue 89 also
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Joined: Aug 2003
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From: Northern NJ
Well samething happened to me when I blew my engine. Car was shaking bad! But at every light I would have to hold the brake, and give it gas to keep the car from dieing. The worst is when it dies going down a hill and you have no abs, I had to plant both my feet on the brake and just put my body weight on it.
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From: Vancouver, Canada
well i dunno if this helps, but it doesn't seem like my powersteering is working, when i'm stopped at least, normally it's not too hard to turn, but i had a hell of a time turning the wheel when the car was stopped (cause i was parking on a hill and wanted to turn my wheels in)
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From: Vancouver, Canada
Originally posted by fg0d
The worst is when it dies going down a hill and you have no abs, I had to plant both my feet on the brake and just put my body weight on it.
The worst is when it dies going down a hill and you have no abs, I had to plant both my feet on the brake and just put my body weight on it.
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Refined Valley Dude
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 2,283
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From: Kitchener, Ontario (Hamilton's armpit)
Have you checked for major vacuum leaks? Missing/disconnected vacuum hoses?
Sess is right. Do a compression check. If your motor isn't blown, you won't be wasting your time pursuing other possibilities.
Sess is right. Do a compression check. If your motor isn't blown, you won't be wasting your time pursuing other possibilities.
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Joined: Apr 2003
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From: Vancouver, Canada
fack, my rear rotor is blown....time for rebuild
a couple questions:
just to keep my options open, how much do u think i can get for just the shell if i decide not to rebuild?
should I go with new or used housings? the difference is about $500 canadian.
What other mods are good to do while it's being rebuilt, aside from street porting? This is my daily driver, doesn't need extreme mods but ones that would give me more power would be good
thanks guys
a couple questions:
just to keep my options open, how much do u think i can get for just the shell if i decide not to rebuild?
should I go with new or used housings? the difference is about $500 canadian.
What other mods are good to do while it's being rebuilt, aside from street porting? This is my daily driver, doesn't need extreme mods but ones that would give me more power would be good
thanks guys
Refined Valley Dude
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 2,283
Likes: 2
From: Kitchener, Ontario (Hamilton's armpit)
Originally posted by nataku
fack, my rear rotor is blown....time for rebuild
fack, my rear rotor is blown....time for rebuild
a couple questions:
just to keep my options open, how much do u think i can get for just the shell if i decide not to rebuild?
just to keep my options open, how much do u think i can get for just the shell if i decide not to rebuild?
Anyone paying more than $400-$500 CDN for an FC with a dead motor (meaning just the shell) is getting ripped off...
should I go with new or used housings? the difference is about $500 canadian.
From www.rotaryresurrection.com
There are 2 basic types of rebuilt rotaries: those that utilize new rotor housings, and those that use old/original ones. These housings perform a similar function to cylinder bores in a piston engine, they provide the smooth surface for compression. The better the surface, the better the engine’s compression and overall strength/smoothness. Rotor housings are not machineable/surfacable, so you either use what you have or get new ones. Many of the more expensive rebuild shops use (or claim to) new rotor housings standard, which reflects the roughly $1000+ pricing difference from my engines’ cost. All of my engines receive good/useable original rotor housings, thus the large savings you receive. These engines still develop to be very strong and reliable, with a life expectancy of 75-100k miles depending on maintenance/driving habits. I have seen final compression numbers reach 120psi, with mazda spec for a NEW rotor housing engine being 125psi.
There are 2 basic types of rebuilt rotaries: those that utilize new rotor housings, and those that use old/original ones. These housings perform a similar function to cylinder bores in a piston engine, they provide the smooth surface for compression. The better the surface, the better the engine’s compression and overall strength/smoothness. Rotor housings are not machineable/surfacable, so you either use what you have or get new ones. Many of the more expensive rebuild shops use (or claim to) new rotor housings standard, which reflects the roughly $1000+ pricing difference from my engines’ cost. All of my engines receive good/useable original rotor housings, thus the large savings you receive. These engines still develop to be very strong and reliable, with a life expectancy of 75-100k miles depending on maintenance/driving habits. I have seen final compression numbers reach 120psi, with mazda spec for a NEW rotor housing engine being 125psi.
What other mods are good to do while it's being rebuilt, aside from street porting? This is my daily driver, doesn't need extreme mods but ones that would give me more power would be good
Last edited by Amur_; Mar 15, 2004 at 11:11 PM.
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From: Vancouver, Canada
i've been told an e-fan doens't really have much of an advantage over the regular fan, and it uses up more juice from my battery which is already being tested w/ my system in there.
Thanks for the suggestions amur
Thanks for the suggestions amur
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