2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.
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View Poll Results: What combination do you think looks best
Keep it stock
4
16.67%
Shave the door handles
5
20.83%
Keep Series 4 black rub strips (1986-1988)
0
0%
Get some Series 5 body colored rub strips (1989-1992)
5
20.83%
Shave the rub strips when you get it repainted
14
58.33%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 24. You may not vote on this poll

I need your opinion on whether to keep rub strips (side moldings) and shaved handle

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Old 02-12-02, 11:09 PM
  #26  
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**** itd probly cost well over $200 to get new mouldings, unless I can find em used, that ideas down the drain
Old 02-12-02, 11:12 PM
  #27  
SPORKY

 
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keep the handles. from what I've heard those cylinoids are decently heavy. plus the handles look good on the car. molding, I'd say get rid of it. I will sometimes... my paint is too new to do it yet. but I might end up getting a different car. so I will do it then
Old 02-12-02, 11:16 PM
  #28  
Da Monee Pit

 
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I like the side moldings. Escpecially if you just got it painted. For some odd reason, if you have a nice looking car so you park it out in section Y space 278 to get away from everyone else there is always that one guy with the 61 chevy rust bucket that parks beside you so close he has to squeeze out his door after he slams it into your car just to get out. Moldings save paint.
Old 02-12-02, 11:25 PM
  #29  
Fear The RE

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So can someone post a pic of there REX with the rub strips removed and the gap still there. So i can see what it looks like. Preferably a black car, but any car will do, thanks Matt22
Old 02-12-02, 11:27 PM
  #30  
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gap still there? you mean just rub strips taken off, hmmm no idea about that picture. I think mykl had a picture of his vert without some of the strips
Old 02-12-02, 11:35 PM
  #31  
W. TX chirpin Monkey

 
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Originally posted by nashman69g
how the hell do ya get into the car without handles
Dukes of Hazard
Old 02-12-02, 11:59 PM
  #32  
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You should have Photoshopped his front rim on the correct way
Old 02-13-02, 11:37 AM
  #33  
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As a custom bodyman for a looong time, I can tell you, you will have less headaches painting the rub strips rather than filling them. Body filler is fiberglass resin and plastic, fiberglass is fiberglass resin and glass. Either way, what does the attaching is the fiberglass resin. If it flexes at a differnet rate than the body, then it will crack, regardless of which method you use. The only way to do it right is to weld in metal filler strips... And that's a headache you simply don't want to go into.

It looks cool, though!

As for the handles, here's something for ALL the naysayers to think about, if you can get out mechanically from the inside, then you don't need locks, as no one but you can get in. IF you think it's bad in an emergency, how the hell do you think emergency crews get in if you crash your car with the doors locked, eh? From their point of view, it's the same thing. If you are awake, you get out from inside if it's locked OR if it has a mechanical release on the inside. If you're not, then they have to break in whether you have no door handles, or you simply LOCKED THEM! And cars with power central locks and anti-theft door lock pulls will have exactly the same issues from outside if your power fails. Think about it. (the emergency crews won't have your keys, now will they?)

The weight of the solenoids? If you care that much, don't eat that extra slice of pizza. the most I've weighed a pair of heavy duty solenoids and wires for this project is 2 lbs. you change that much yourself over the course of a day. It simply isn't that important, even for an occasional race car...
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