well, in my opinion if you have a soddering remover i would remove the sodder and put some new cause it looks kinda rusted and corrodedon those two middle connections, make sure its a tight connection on those sodder points other than that it looks good in there, on mine they were all soddered together so it might be that the clip isn't getting good connection, but thats just a kinda check while ya got it open kinda thing, also check and see if when you push on the flap inside that that gauge moves with it, othe than that if your gettin everything else just try to push\pull start like everyone else said, and you have checked relays and everything else, if not check some of them, if you have an ohm meter and a manuel its pretty easy

 

here is another pic that i expalin more after i removed the connector

 

I think you digging into this AFM a little too much.

 

is the sodder not filling in the gap, if there is play and there is space in between the little copper tabs thats not good, but as long as ther are not loose you should be good

 

i know that i am but im really runnin out of options

i have a 96 chevy truck that i can pull with, but im only one person bro is coming home from skool tonite and i should have results of that SOON.

but i tested all the connections and the flapper, they are all good in the sense of resistance and good connections.

 

I feel for ya.

 

So rather than reading the past 4 pages of various crap throwing you all over the place, what does this vehicle do or don't do?

Do the injectors fire?
Fuel pump runs?
Both leading plugs fire? (Are they even put in the right order?)
Do you see an assload of gas mist come spraying out if you crank without the plugs in and the EGI fuses pulled?
Does it even begin to fire when cranking? Ie sputter once or twice then continue to crank?

 

SUMMARY:

injectors fire- YES

FUEL pump- runs and pressure is good (bought new) gas pressure present at rails also good

All plugs fire ( new plugs)

i have de-flooded motor few times, turning it till nothing comes out of the spark plug holes. plugs come out wet but not soaked. i have put oil into housings, atleast every 5 trys and then i check psi still good there. trying to turn over with starting fluid.

ive heard the "hestation" sputter where she wants to fire but wont.

the RPM's do jump when i try to crank over.

brand new rotors and seals if it needs a new gasket it got it.

AFM is good as far as i can test.

i have fuel cut off switch in place.

new fuel filter.

will push pull start tonite when i have more hands to help.

 

Well, everything is there, now it's just making sure it's right.

Triple check your plug wires and make sure they're going to the right places.
Try jamming something in your AFM to hold it open while cranking (incase you have a major vac leak that's preventing getting enough fuel)
Triple check your timing.
Kick it!

 

is there error codes for an 88 rx7 GXL N/a car.

if so how can i read them.and how?

 

OK!!! Evervyone that has an rex plz help me with this one....


i got it to pull start, BUT i have to keep the rev's up to 4k in second gear at 28mph if it drops anything below 4k it dies, then i can hit the clucth and i can keep going wityh the clucth in. but i have to keep it upto 4k I KNOW ITS BAD but i really need to know what to do now...


chould it be bad gas...

did i install the secondary tubes wrong...


PLZ ADVICE IS GREATLY APPRECIATED!!!!!

 

Sounds like a vac leak to me

 

gerunteed bad vac leak, I can't think of much else that would do it. Unless. .did you switch your primary and secondary injectors. I don't remember if someone suggested that in this thread or a different one. Either a huge vac leak or the primary injectors arn't working for some odd reason.

 

Man I saw this thread on the main screen, And I said to myself how many posts before Ol' Sonicrat chimes in! Sure enough boom right there!! Sad my friend! lol

 

in the rebuild process i did in fact switch the primary and secondary injectors. is that i problem.

the other thing is on the wire loom for an 88 N/A what comes first on the loom primary injector connector or secondary injector connector????

 

Least I waited a few days before I clicked it! Ok, it was only about one day, but still....

 

Do they have a Fourm Annynomous (SP)?

 

Injectors are interchangable. Only make sure you have the right impedience for your car. What it sounds like is that the engine isn't giving power to the injectors. I would make sure they are plugged in correctly. No loose connections. Then start testing for voltage at the ECU pins. Don't forget to test for grounds while your there. I got a bad feeling that your ECU might be bad but dont assume that just yet.

 

i know that my primary injectors have to be workig becuz i flood it all the time just trying to start it.
but is it possible that i have my secondary tubes in wrong when i rebuilt??

 

VACUUM LEAK... check all your connections after the AFM, gaskets, vacuum hoses, rubber caps, block off plates, etc. This is why your car would not start to begin with it sounds like...

 

You left some large item off like the brake booster line or didn't put the intake manifold on right (large air leak).

The injector plugs/wires are color coded. Look in the free online FSM wiring diagram for the right colors for the injector wires. It's hard to imagine how you could mix the primary and secondary wires in my humble opinion.

But we all know that if you do put the primay on the secondary and vive versa that the car will hardly run worth spit. I swapped the wires at my ECU to prove that in another thread on this forum to confirm that if you do that the engine starts but runs real, real crummy.

 

I'm with everybody else.................vacuum leak. Somewhere you have forgotten something. Or something fell off when you were installing it like the hoses that reside under the LIM.

Or.....you didn't torque your intake bolts to the proper spec in the proper tightening sequence and you have a pinched gasket.

 

if anyone willing to come out and take a look, ill make it worth the while... NOT THAT!!!

 

you should post that request in an "area specific" forum section. Or look for a local rotary specialist. I thought I'd never find a rotary specialist, seeing as how they are really rare. I had the car for a week and the first place I went to (local mazda dealership) had one. Maybe I'm just lucky. I get my car back monday (inspection, tune up, driver's door fixed, and the guy said he upped my boost a tad [still safe levels for a stock engine])

 

You still have not told us if you have everything hooked up. A lot of ppl will try to test start it before they put everything back together.

If you get it running again and when it dips low in the RPMs you should here a large sucking sound from the vacuum leak. Listen for it, you need your Girl freind to run the throttle for you while you get around to the throttle body.