87racer

Someone please help. I'm not doing very good with money but power is now a must. I only have a K&N and a Borla dual exhaust. What are the next best cost effective mods to my n/a?

sunshine

iTrader: (3)

PR sleeves, TB mod

87racer

PR Sleeves??? Whats that??? But I am planning on doing the TB mod but no one can tell me if it will mess with the emissions here in California. Because the other thing is to take off the air pump but that messes with emissions for sure.

87racer

oh.... do i need block off plates if i take off the air pump?

Jimmy325i

air pump can be symbolically put back in for emissions visual inspections. You'll need a block off for the BAC valve which becomes useless when there's no smog pump.

I'm sure they'd have snipers ready to shoot me before my car got to the cali state line. damn emissions freaks

87racer

hell yea.... they're fanatical... for cryin out loud why dont they stop shooting damn rockets into space??? imagine how many damn holes that leaves!!!??!! LOL.... well do you have any pics off the BAC valve (what does BAC mean?) blockoff plate installed?

Jimmy325i

this is a pic of my air pump 6 port actuator contraption on top of the BAC block off plate. Bypass Air Control valve is what it stands for and its part of the EGR system on the car. It also has the anti-afterburn thingy in it. (never missed it)

I'm thinking the block off plate would be a big no-no in cali, but I've seen some people who've welded the holes rather convincingly so you might be able to get away with that. There's enough unused vacuum ports on our engines to confuse plato. I'm sure the average HS drop out working at the smog shops wouldn't know what was intended to go there from the north end of a south bound dog.

KiyoKix

First off...why are you taking the airpump off the car??? If you're looking for cheap mods, that's NOT one of them. You might want to get your 5th/6th ports working since that's a VERY important part of the whole induction system. If you don't have the sleeves you WILL lose power and although you gain some on top it's definately not worth it with the mods you have since you can't rev high enough to make it count anyway. First thing would be to get the car running perfectly and then go for some new mods like porting the manifolds, TB mod, etc. I wouldn't recommend taking out the airpump right now though.

87racer

thank you very much. Which intake mani. is better? the like 86-89 or the 91-?? and does the better one match up to the 87's lower mani.??

Jimmy325i

the S4 intake manifold performs better on ported motors and the S5's VDI manifold makes more power on stock ones. You have to make some mods to get the VDI working without the computer from the newer car. So that would take some $$$ as well as locating the intake itself.

S4's use exhaust backpressure to open the 6-ports (unless you run a header like me) <seen in the bottom of the pic> {sorry for the huge pic btw} So as long as he keeps the cats and all that crap he'll be just fine plumbing the 6 port actuators to the exhaust lead.

I port matched my lower intake manifold to the block when I street ported my engine. There was quite a bit of profiling to be done in the very bottom of the intake runners to open them up and blend them into the new port openings. As far as Dre2000's intake manifold porting goes, I'm not convinced there is any advantage to doing it. Enlarging the diameter of the ports where the housings meet will only slow down the intake charge as it passes through the elbows only to hit the "resistance" of the narrow passages once it clears the ported area. Engines require a high intake charge velocity to increase efficiency in the higher revs. You want the intake charge to be moving at half the speed of sound. So you want the runners to be small enough to move the amount of air the engine needs without choking the motor at a high enough speed to achieve this.

Bottom line is don't go hacking the crap out of the intake manifold if you don't know exactly what you're doing.

87racer

ok... well basically i just smoothed out the bumps and things on the ends, just the stuff i could reach. Can you send your intake in and have it ported?? Also, i have another engine just laying around here so i want to send it in and have it rebuilt and ported. What is the best port setup to have?? Around how much will it cost?

87racer

Also i dont want to do headers because in the upcoming spring i plan to put a turbo on my ported engine, so a header would be a waist of my small amount of money.

Jimmy325i

Rebuilt engines are spendy. Do it yourself for about 500 if the housings are all reusable. Thats what I did only I needed a new intermediate housing, (mine was cracked in the water jacket) so I got the S5 TII housing due to the more advantagous casting and initial port size. These motors are so easy to work on that if you did that small amount of work on the intake manifold you can probably rebuild the engine.

As far as sending the manifold out to have someone else butcher it... If you're hell bent on spending your small budget then have it extrudehoned. That'll clear up any cash that you don't want to spend on something more worth while. <in all honesty, extrudehoning is probably the only porting of our manifold runners thats worth any gains in HP>

87racer

im just looking for more airflow... these damn rotary's feed of the airflow. the faster in and out the better. how long did it take you to bebuild the motor not including removing and installation. Cuz when i do it (around the new year) im gonna do all the vacuum hoses and hell when i put the other motor on i may as well do the turbo setup.

87racer

oh and if i rebuild the engine by myself then i cant have it ported can i? or do i just send in the housings when i have it apart?

87racer

do you know how much that would cost?

casio

when the engine is apart is the best time to have it ported. i don't know of any good places near you, but www.racingbeat.com has some price quotes for porting and such.

13B2QuIcKNy

who said the bac becomes useless when theres no air pump?
the acv becomes useless with no air pump..
the bac compensates for engine drag when the a/c and p/s are in use.... just
my 2 cent

Jimmy325i

Sorry, I wasn't paying full attention when I posted that. Combined with my meds from knee surgery I'm not surprized that I pooched that one. You are correct that its the ACV which becomes pointless. My bad. Thanks for catching it! Also note that the pic is the blockoff plate for the ACV.

****, send the housings to me. I'll port the snot out of them for way less than mazdatrix wants.

I had to wait for a damn month to get my TII intermediate housing. Other than that the porting took a few hours and the assembly of the keg took a few hours. I do a very thorough job using a different non-water soluble non-hardening sealant on the o-rings other than hylomar. I figure if you're gonna seal the water jacket, why use a substance to wet the seals that water will dissolve? I essentially glue the o-rings in place with a cocoon of sealant. My engine was torn down for a water jacket failure in the compression chamber. This time the o-ring is bonded in place so that if the crack does return (they're becoming alarmingly common) it'll have more trouble pushing the o-ring out.

87racer

well, i would really like to do the rebuild myself or have someone around here do it, shipping and what-not will kill me. But can i just send in the housings to be ported and not have them reassemble it? I think it would be a good experience for me to do the rebuild but i really want the extra power from the port job.

87racer

bump

Jimmy325i

I was implying sending me the side housings for porting. Shipping on those bad boys is about 60 bucks one way for half the continent. (assumuming you'd be sending all three)

I highly recommend people rebuild their own engines. Nothing like getting right in there to see how stuff works and fits together. Then again, I've been modifying my toys since I was 2.

87racer

same here... i love to take stuff apart... when i get some money together ill pm you to see whats up.... i appreciate the help. i could use some more help on my other thread about a similair problem..... its called "i need a quick answer"

87racer

which port would you sugges if i was gonna add a turbo? what if i added a header to keep it n/a then which port style would you suggest? just curious.

Jimmy325i

In both cases I would go street port. Your final intentions (turbo or juice etc) would determine how much overlap I built into the porting. I have just the right amount in mine to do either SC,TC, or juice. I went with a pretty conservative overlap to keep the bottom end fuel efficient. I'm still geting +25mpg @80mph.

If you want ***** out N/A power get an S5 TII intermediate housing. They make 6 port engines come alive.