uRizen

iTrader: (2)

When starting my 87 GXL, I have to tap the gas after the engine starts when running cold to get teh rapid heat-up cycle to go, otherwise she idles at 500rpm-700rpm and does not jump higher.

Normally it hasn't been a problem, but now that I have my remote start installed, I'd like 'er to start up normally.

I'm also still getting a bit of blue smoke at startup for about 2 minutes at the worst of times. It smells heavily of gas, so I'm hoping something aside from my injectors isn't going nuts on me.

Here's what I've done the last 3 months to try and get 'er running smooth:

- Just put in balanced and cleaned injectors. They tested leak-negative. Also cleaned fuel pump sock, and the fuel filter looks pretty new (has new mounting hardware which has hardly corroded).

- Adjusted TPS at the ECU, cleaned all electrical connectors in the engine bay at that time.

- Replaced aging vacuum lines.

- Cleaned and reinforced all grounds, also added a couple at the ECU

- Installed remote start

- Cut the top of my filter box off (it still seals around the edge of the filter.)

The car runs nice and smooth, with no hesitation at any point, and pulls strong. I also ran a compression test a month back and nailed 110 on the front rotor, and 100 on the rear. The car always runs below the 1/4 mark for temperature, and teh oil pressure is good.

I also premix because my OMP system is currently clogged, but since switching to premix I've actually noticed a mark increase in smoothness in operation. You can slightly smell the two cycle burning, but I'm not smoking at any other time then startup.

Oh, and the cold assist system si still intact, and the fluid is full.

WAYNE88N/A

Make sure you're getting the approx 10v "crank" input at the ECU pin.

I usually tap the gas peddle to set the mechanical fast idle cam, just habit, but I would think that as long as your temp sensors are doing their thing with the ECU, you shouldn't have to do that as far as the 3K thing goes.

So you're saying that the 3K works when you're in the car, but doesn't with the remote start? Or are you just talking about the fast idle cam doing its thing (or not doing it, lol)?

uRizen

iTrader: (2)

Typical scenario:

I get ready for work, head out the door. Stick my key in the ignition, start the car, and she'll do the 500 or 750rpm idle, and I usually blip the gas and then it jumps to ~2,500rpm and holds until she's warmed up.

Current situation:

Remote start installed. I'm still have my slippers on when I get the car started from inside the house, she idles at 500rpm the whole time, getting the vehicle sufficiently warmed up, but not as much as I would like. Especially when it gets to be below zero.

Every car I've owned enters it's accelerated warm-up cycle right after starting the vehicle w/o the need to blip the throttle. Of course, Mazda reallly liked to be different on the FCs, so I don't know if this isn't standard behavior or not for my car, hehe.

WAYNE88N/A

Yeah, the fast idle cam has to be "reset" after she cools off again, via the throttle cable.

Have you tried to tweak the TPS slightly one way or the other to see if anything changes? Don't know if the ECU uses the TPS input for the 3K thing, though, I thought it was just the rad temp switch and the water thermosensor.

Did you say that the 3K system is still operational on the car (under normal conditions)?

uRizen

iTrader: (2)

I've tried to adjust the TPS before to see what happened, and it just ran like crap.

I have no idea what controls the accelerated warm-up (I thought it was a form of thermal wax in the TB), but it works normally if I blip it right after starting. It will not run the accelerated warmup when starting warm though, so whatever is supposed to be sensing it seems to be working... What a pain, hehe.

WAYNE88N/A

She's gotta be somewhere between about 60*F and (I'm guessing here) 140* for the 3K to work. The 60* point comes from the rad temp switch, and the (alleged) 140 reading from the thermosensor. I guess Mazda figured below 60* was bad to rev her up like that, and above 140 there's no need to warm her up quickly...

Remember, there are two completely different warm-up systems, the 3K is electronic, via the ECU and BAC, and the 1500 warm up (after the 3K falls off) is controlled by the idle cam & thermowax. It's the cam that you'd want to work right, because at the temps you'll be remote starting her, the 3K wouldn't work anyway...

You could always tweak the idle up some, via the adjust screw, so she idles higher at warmup, if you can handle the higher idle once warm/driving...

uRizen

iTrader: (2)

Hmmm... so maybe there's no way around this situation except for adjusting the idle. I'll try cleaning off the cams and stuff, and re-lube them.

Ummmm.... I suck at adjusting idle too. I tried it once... Jumped the connectors, adjusted the screw, and nothing happened. What's the proper procedure?

WAYNE88N/A

Man, if you jumpered the initial set coupler, she should have responded to the screw adjustments, unless you have some vac leak problems going on.

uRizen

iTrader: (2)

That's the two pin connector by the front ignition, right?

WAYNE88N/A

Yep. Don't mistake it for the bigger ECU code check plug...

Cybaster

I have the same problem as u uRizen, i have to tap the gas to get it to 2500 also, and the thing is, without tapping it, it stays below 750 and wants to die....
strangely enough, after the 2500 rpm warm up (before i had it at 3000.... i don't know why it is at 2500 now) it drops to 1500 BUT sometimes (most often than not) the idle sputters, 1500, then 500 then 1500 then 500 again, UNTIL the little needle hits the C...

I've actually cleaned the BAC and adjusted the TPS
one thing though, the first time with the BAC, the silicone gaskets were sucked in and the inside of the BAC had a film of gasket in it... (sucks huh?) and that cause a HELLA bad idle.... since then i cleaned it off and after warmup the idle is fine

(although after i hit the gas to rev higher to 1500, it stays at 1500 until i put it in 4th gear when i am not supposed to and let the idle drop below 1000... if u read my other posts about idle, its pratically doing the same thing as before i tried to "fix it")

would it be the BAC that is causing this trouble?

uRizen

iTrader: (2)

Hmmm, I don't know for sure if the BAC would or not. Can't you pull the connnector off and run the car to test that to some extent?

Has your idle mixture screw ever been screwed with, and did oyu adjust your TPS at the ECU instead of the connector?

Oh yeah, and are you using the stock intake setup? I know that some poeple put their MAF box thing at all sorts of odd angles when they move to upgraded intakes and it can cause problems if it's notting sitting the way it normally does due to some flapper moving incorrectly or something like that.

uRizen

iTrader: (2)

Hey, get this... I fixed it when I was poking around cleaning up a few things before the snow flies.

It was this little bastard causing the malfunction:

Note the nasty wires coming out. The insulation was pretty much completely burned out and shorting. I replaced the wires, covered them with some good loom, and holy crap, lots of little things work now, litke the actuator on the TB and it starts and runs the 1500rpm warm-up cycle without hitting the gas.... wow.

I've been told it was the ACV system I fixed, so that means I should've fixed a butt-load of other stuff. Would my secondary ports not be engaging because of this?

In any case, I haven't been able to take the car out for a drive yet. I have to work in the morning and had some other stuff to do. I'll take it out tomarrow and do a TPS adjustment while I"m at it. I already have the ECU exposed for some other clean-up.