MazterDizazter

iTrader: (5)

1990 RX-7 TurboII

That's the link to the car. I've been looking for an FC Turbo for about 2 years now and I'm just trying to figure out some of the quirks with this car before I go ahead and put the deposit down on it. I wanted to do this before bidding, but didn't have time to. Anyhow, can anyone give me some feedback on this oil injector adapter doohicky? I watched the video on his listing; it starts off idling around 800rpm then after revving it the idle goes up to 1100; any ideas why? Is it bad that the transmission won't shift into 1st after 5mph? He doesn't say if the tranny grinds every time going into 5th, but does anyone know why it would be grinding? Why would the emissions equipment be causing the engine to run so erratically that he would just remove all of it? Why would you have to step on the gas pedal when cranking it? And lastly, how hard is it to fix the faulty window motor and sunroof? Thanks for any help you can offer, everyone!! I hope to be the proud owner of an FC Turbo soon!

bmwrx7man

iTrader: (2)

it wotn shift into first after 5 mph my freinds sentra deos that u have to rev match it like rev it up then throw it into first

socalrotor

iTrader: (1)

Not to be a ***, but if you look in the 2nd gen archive you might get a better Idea of the common problems/fixes with T2's. There is enough info to keep you busy, and you will learn alot about the car before you try to fix it. Hope that will help ya. You can also use the Search feature up at the top right to search specific topics.

MazterDizazter

iTrader: (5)

Yeah, yeah the search feature, I'm quite familiar with it believe me. I don't have time to look up every little thing so I started a new thread. Please don't shoot me!

Bunchies

iTrader: (1)

[quote]The idle should be steady and at 750RPM, which is Mazda spec. Variation is stated at + or - 50RPM, so idle should read anywhere from 700RPM to 800RPM. Be wary of cars that have elevated idles, as the idle could be bumped up to cover other problems. Intake vacuum leaks are notorious, and bumping the idle is a trick to get the engine to idle steadily enough to mask them. Whatever the case, an FC idling 1,000RPM is higher should be considered suspicious. [/img]

MazterDizazter

iTrader: (5)

Yeah, that's off FC3S Pro, I did do some homework before asking this. I guess I didn't read the second part about the intake vacuum leak.

1SWEET7

iTrader: (1)

Well you placed your bid on the car correct and won the auction. Why are you contemplating putting your deposit down? You should of thought about buying the car before you agreed to pay for it. Like socalrotor said all of your questions can be answered in the 2nd Gen FAQ and with a little searching.

Node

iTrader: (1)

Thats kinda dick move to win an auction and wait NOW to research the car.
Buy it, fix the minor problems until it runs as if stock and you will not regret it.
-Ben

BASTARD

iTrader: (4)

the oil injector injects oil

Node

iTrader: (1)

that oil injector thing looks like a good idea. havent heard of many peopole using them though. Its mostly a airplane mod. Which means very reliable
Just make sure you ALWAYS have enough oil for where you're driving, and you don't forget to fill the tank.
You can use regular engine oil if you run out of 2 stroke. That is whats injected in stock form. But 2 stroke is better, cleaner burning and meant to work as a pre-mixed lubricant.
-Ben Martin

MazterDizazter

iTrader: (5)

You're absolutely right; it would've been a dick move. However, at 1am with the auction ending in 5 hours I didn't have time to research it and my internet was down the whole weekend so I couldn't get my friend the RX-7 guru to give it the stamp of approval. Noone had bid on it yet but with no reserve I didn't want to risk losing yet another S5 TII. I figured if worse came to worst I would pay him the cost to relist the item if I had to bail. But that's not the case, I placed the deposit down and I'm now figuring out how to get it from VA to MA. So anyhow, I had a nice long talk with the owner and it really put me at ease with the car. I really can't wait to get it!

7 freak

if i don't see it i don't buy it so be prepare for sorpresas!

7 freak

hey don;t get me wrong i hope the car si great but a friend buy a 65 mustang in e-bay and went the car got here was a junk so good luck with your buy and welcome to the darkside

the.white.fc3s

Well, I would say that just keep the car and let it be your part car. Search for the 2nd one. Forget about fixing it. It will be a waste of your time and money.

-Ryousuke

Tournapart

iTrader: (4)

thats crappy advice considering you know NOTHING about the car, at the least it will need a rebuild but everything else looks great for a 200k car. i wouldnt say hes wasting time or money at all. **** thats a clean *** s5 T2 for 2,000$.

Icemark

People like that make me sick. If you bid on something and win you need to pay for it and follow through.

Don't bid if you are not gonna pay.

walken

iTrader: (6)

I can't believe that car only went for 2k.

riverzendz

I hear that. I had looked at that car when it was first listed and I wouldn't have bid on it but that doesn't mean it's not a good deal and worth having. It was just one that didn't interest me the slightest bit.

Get it, clean it up and make it what you want. If nothing else it's a great starting point.

I have a friend that buys and sells cars on ebay all the time and he's always made out good.

13b4me

Are you smoking the **** man? Just because you're too lazy to fix a car doesn't mean everyone else is...

mr0pistons

That car is riced to the max.

MazterDizazter

iTrader: (5)

The owner said when he stipped it down to the short block he checked and said the apex seals were in great shape. So that's good, but it still may need a rebuild. It's definitely going to need some diagnostics considering the erratic idle. It's going to be a lot of little fixes here and there, but in the end I'm sure I'll be very satisfied, especially considering I'm used to driving a MK1 MR2, which is slow but handles amazingly. I'm not a fan of the white face guages or the pedal covers, but those can all be changed. It won't look ricey once I get a FEED front lip and an RE Amemiya rear diffuser on it Of course that'll be a while...

BASTARD

iTrader: (4)

your right... it will be fried ricey

RenofHeavens

That driver's seat is in remarkable conditon. Must have gotten a replacement. The engine bay looks pretty clean, and I've never seen that intake before.

cool_as_crap

dang, that is a pretty damn good price for the car.

adrock3217

I'm very confused from all the mis-information in this thread. Maybe even shocked.

The car is running. Quite well, at that! Where are you getting this "It will need [B]at least[/B ] a rebuild" from?!?! WTF?

And the person who says use it as a parts car, wow, you should consider suicide.

If you choose to do a rebuild, which, considering the questionable miles is not a horrible choice, then you can do so. But do not perform a rebuild simply on the fact of an erratic idle! Chances are, when he did his new vacuum lines / emissions removal, he may have put something where it didn't belong. And the idle didn't see very bad to me..it wasn't loping, so there isn't a big vacuum leak anywhere.


Consider the Mazdaspeed lip before FEED, you won't be disappointed. And unless you do serious high speed track driving, don't waste the money on the diffuser.