Wow.
I knew my ACV wasn't working properly, I was ALWAYS geting air out of the dump under the front bumper..., and the car wasn't really running well... smelled bad, etc. I was also suspect as to wether the 6p were opening consistantly. Well, I figured, I have a ported engine, and no torque anyways, I might as well go all the way! I took a few hours to rip off the manifold, (I also smoothed the ridge inside the plastic intake elbow) I took out the sleeves, removed the actuators, and filled the actuator rod holes with JB weld. Then I removed the ACV, and cut an aluminum plate to cover the hole. Then I removed the actuator on the VDI, and locked it in the hi rpm position. I also got rid of the air pump.
Results??
Well- I did notice a slight loss of low end torque (3500- under)
Oh darn. It wasn't bad though.
Top end.. heheh.... DAMN! Night and day.
It keeps pulling more and more from 5000 to 8000! Kind of peaky, but hey... In first gear the tires start to spin at around 5500, and I don't have traction untill I shift into second!
I like.

 

You should try the VDI set for low RPM, you might like it better. I have removed all emissions/air pump/acv/6 ports, etc. I tried the VDI set for high rpm, but I lost so much low end it actually made my car slower. My car still pulls hard to 8600 rpm, even on the low rpm setting.

 

Very nice. I wish I had that kind of traction problem.

 

Sweet. I'm in the middle of this on my 87.. Removing pretty much everything I can.. I hope the series 4's will experience a simmilar benefit!

-Tesla

 

As do I!

Tesla, let me know how yours turns out, gimme a pm

~Jesse

 

I need to move onto the fuel system next, I''m leaning out pretty bad at anything over 7000... anyone have any suggestions? Rewiring fuel pump, etc? If I get bigger injectors, woudln't I need an AFC or something?

 

BamBam.....This site http://www.fc3s.org/ and on the left hand side of the page click ApexiAfc. He explains why he went to a afc when he upgraded to 550's in the secondaries. I had responded to a post where I stated that I use 550's in the secondaries and thought it was a great upgrade. I believe the owner of fc3s,
Dave Gibson, wrote back and said I needed to get a afc, that if I did not I would be running rich and would not be taking full advantage of the 550's in the secondaries. If I had it to do over again, I'd have bought the 680's that are for a 85rx and put them in the secondaries. I might do that yet, but I've got a spare turbo engine, ecu, transmission, knock sensor and the ability to string wire, so I'll probably just do the engine swap and save the money on the afc and injectors. If I don't do the engine swap I'll buy the afc and the 680's and follow your lead and pull the aux port sleeves.

 

Removing the sleeves is much better than wiring them open. Anyone that has enough increase air flow through there engine to benifit from wiring them open should take the time to pull em right out. Well worth it, but ONLY for an engine with a fair bit of mods. If you are running a faily stock system, there isn't enough air flow for the sleeves to be a bottleneck.
Thanks for the info on the AFC, That'll probably be next with a TII fuel pump, and the bigger secondaries, and hopefully a retuned ECU.
I would like to go Haltech, because I will be supercharging the car eventually, but I heard that it's hard to pass emmisions with an aftermarket ECU.

Now, about not taking full advantage of the 550's as secondaries becuase you don't have an AFC- I can understand running rich at part throttle, but at WOT, the ECU goes to open loop, and runs off of preset fuel maps, totally ignoring siganls from the O2 sesor, and hence, the AFC... So getting one it should't make any difference in track times right?? I am probably missing something ...

 

the way i understand it,the super afc modiefies the signal comming from the afm....so,my own common sense tells me,that,when the ecu goes open loop[i always thought this function was called closed loop..],it must still use the airflow meter to determine how much air is comming in,to match it with the proper amount of fuel,according to its preset fuel map.so,by modifing the afm[or maf,whetever its called in the rex],you can "cheat" the ecu into thinking there is more air comming in,wich it would have to match with more fuel etc.
anyhow,i'm in the process of eliminating my aux.ports also,so i'm glad to hear your eperience with it.i'm putting in a new engine with streetport/t2 centerhousing/89 rotors,and am upgrading to 89+ intake[minus egr].my only problem is that i dont have the money for a dual system right now,so i'm just gonna keep what i have right now,wich will be pretty restrictive[see sig],and no airpump to provide air to cat....hmm.anyway,i got a rpm activated switch,wich i will use with a small airpump[out of a older caddy with airride]to open my vdi.someone has a good writeup on this,cant remember who or where,thou.later

 

Ok, Ifeel like a monkey now.... I always thought the AFC modified the 02 sensor signal... Thanks for clearing that up. Everything makes a lot more sense now... Wow... everything is brighter.... I can see!!! Anyways.
Hey, wankelhead, lemme know if you find anything about that VDI actuation. I have mine stuck in hi rpm mode, but I would like to keep mine functional, since it is never a troublesome, nor a restrictive system, but with the A/P... hmmm....

 

hey bambam, I just started to rebuild my engine and I am definately eliminating all the emissions stuff but just wanted to know how your streetport came out?? How much did you port??
Car has a power difference?? Also how or where did you get your intake manifold port and polished?? Make any difference?
thanks

87 RX7
Racing Beat headers
Apex N1 dual exhaust
Racing beat pulleys
hks intake
magnecor 10 mm
rebuilding motor as we speak
89+ rotors w/ a streetport
new internals

 

If yo are in the process of rebuilding your egine ABSOUTELY street port it!!! I did really notice any difference in low rpm, and MAN it screams from 5500 to 9000!!!!
I had it ported by a professional shop, so I couldn't tell you how much was done, but when I got the short block back, the intake and exhaust ports were much larger than before, and the was alos a nice radius in the secondary intake ports.
if you have any questions just pm me.

 

BAMBAN....when you say you are leaning out over 7000 rpm, what figures are you seeing? Or colors?

 

hey bambam...i found the site with the electronic aux. port actuation...the link to it is a few posts up [heh:p ] www.FC3S.org ,same thing could be used for vdi,of course.i already got my switch from summit,so we will see how i do.later

 

Here's what I did on my GRM Challenge car. I did a large streetport and filled the auxilliary ports with Teflon, then grinded it into the appropriate shape for maximum airflow. Results were spectacular.

 

Huh! That's pretty clever.. I would have figured it would melt...

Which template did you use for the port?

-Tesla

 

No. Teflon is rated to 500+ degrees -- well beyond anything the engine could experience and survive. I roughed up the intake runner, hammered in a length of Teflon dowel, and shaped it to my specifications. The nice thing about Teflon is that it is unlikely to destroy the engine if it were to come loose or chunk, unlike epoxy.

Template? Nah. If you know what you're doing, a template is not needed. I did make my own template to match ports for both rotors, but those were just temps (paper).

Everything I know I learned from Rob Golden of Pineapple Racing
--
Blake QualleyRotary Engine Illustrated

 

Yeah, 500 degrees coolant temperature would mean bad things.. But don't the housing and rotor surface temps get way up there? The EGT's are like 1600F, right? Then again, this has a constant supply of cool air hitting it, and it's not like it's in the exhaust..

Did you do that teflon trick to both the normal and aux port? Or just the aux port? Kinda hard to see with all those shavings..

That's a pretty good idea.. Whenever I build up the courage/money to go for it, I think I'll do the same thing.. How many miles have you put on that rebuild?

-Tesla

 

Hey all, just completely removed the six ports on my 86 on saturday... Wow, what a difference.... I don't think my 6 ports where opening all the way, so i noticed a pretty good difference, all high end gain, and a little low end loss, about the same as having them wired open. This is on an engine with no big mods, just an intake and bonez cat by the way. I would recomend this mod as well, just make sure you know what you're doing before you start tearing stuff apart. Blake ~ I love the teflon idea! I was trying to think of something to jam in those holes to smooth the intake out, but came up pretty dry. JB weld, but if it came loose, bad things would happen. You are positive that teflon is rated high enough for this? I'd tend to think along the same lines as tesla, the rotor housing and other internals must be over 1000 degrees... Tesla ~ did you get you car up and running yet?


~Jesse

 

It's in a cool area and the coolant, even around the exhaust, doen't get that hot or it would vaporize.

Just the Aux port, as the others don't need it. The whole idea is to add material to reshape the runner/port transition. When you remove the sleeves, it simply dead ends, so anything is better than that. Some use epoxy, but Teflon is a safer choice.

Um, 4,000. We built it to compete in the Grassroots Motorsports $2001 Challenge last January. We drove it from Portland, Oregon to Ormond Beach, Florida for the event (4,000 miles). This was a stripped out race car with 350 lbs/in front coilovers up front and 150 out back. R-compound drag radials and double-diaphragm pressure plate. Fun x-country drive Unfortunately, we snapped the output shaft of the tranny during the drag races and ended up selling the car and flying home. Power came on like a lightswitch at 3,000 RPM, by the way. Very motivated engine, even using the restrictive GSL-SE intake (this was in a 1st gen chassis). I would do it again, but this time we've gone with a peripheral port, instead
--
Blake Qualley
Rotary Engine Illustrated

 

Sweet.. I'm glad my effort isn't in vain. No, I haven't gotten it back together.. At times, I wish I hadn't taken it apart yet.. I never really got a chance to drive it before I started ripping stuff apart (never got it licensed.. heh). It's WAY too addictive.. I was originally *JUST* going to do the TB mod.. Then, I decide to pull the dynamic chamber and polish the top up.. Then, i'm all like oh, look, the upper manifold is right there..hmm... Oh..huh...lower manifold..why not? EGR? Sure.. BAC, ACV, sure! 6 ports? Gone.. Remove it all!! Whee!

I'm on the virge of just pulling the whole damn thing and porting it...but damnit, the engine gasket set is 137$, and I'm poor today.

I'll prolly end up throwing it back together, driving it for a while, then pulling the engine to port it later this year.. I really want to see how much of a difference each mod does...

-Tesla

 

Hey blake, nice to see ya on the forum. I'm sooooo happy with my street ported engine from Rob, not to mention his 6port sleeves. The port in my blue car is'nt as nearly as big as the one's in your pictures. But i have to agree the Pineapple 6ports sleeves realy do help. I'm also porting a extra middle intake. If you would like, i'll bring it to the next meeting to show you. I'll post some pics in a little while. CJ

 

pic 1

 

The picture above is stock. This one here is where i've been cleaning it up a little. Still not finished...but this is just an idea of what i've been playing with.

 

This is anouther spot that has a meduim sized bump that can be removed. CJ