sounds like youre on the right path datz, thanks for the follow up posts....
it took me a little while and money to smoothen out my idle after i first got my 7 too man, dont get discouraged...i think its great your getting all this done and probably learning a bit too.
i just ended up replacing a bunch of things that i later found out wasnt the problem, but i figured thats ok, it wouldve got replaced sooner or later anyway.
hope it all works out for u man. did you get those small coolant lines to and from the bacv cleared out? if not dont be suprised if you find a bunch of nasty blackshit in there gloggin your flow.
good luck. let us know if you got your idle smooth.

oh btw...after i did all this stuff...my idle smoothened a good amount but not fully until i set the CAS and did timing.

 

ya i had a feeling the timing is off a little, but no timing light
the owner that sold me the car had a old ECU he gave me (he thought it worked) so im gonna switch that out and see if anything changes.
and i havent cleared out the lines to and from the thermowax, but when i take them off the TB/thermowax they spew coolant so i think there not cloged, but i guess could be slightly clogged, so im gonna check them.

 

im sorry man, shoulda told you, you have to drain the coolant a little, those lines are kind of a high point(at least on s4) so you dont have to drain a whole lot...otherwise it might spew, especially if you dont depressurize a little by taking the rad cap off...when its cool.

if theyre flowing, thats good... you could make sure theyre not leaking while your at it. you probably have to take the uim off to reach the one that goes from the thermowax to the rear iron. but i guess the point is to get the flow through the bacv here. so you could always do that later too.

i wouldnt just plug in a different model ECU. i dont know how that **** works(not big on electrical stuff yet) but i dont want you to accidentely blow fuses or sensors up or something. i suggest look into it before you just plug it in man, tons of info here and your fsm.

i think you can get the ecu model number off your boost sensor if you still got the original one on there, might be printed on the bottom of it.

are you still close to stock or what?

should be able to borrow or rent a timing light, plus harbor freight sells'em pretty cheap, and the procedures pretty simple. if you dont feel like doin it, take it to someone who knows how to time a rotary.

 

ya its stock with a cone filter and closeout around it, and the prev. owner put mufflers on.

i swapped out the ECU to no avail. It was the same model evry # on the label was the same as other one. so ive eliminated one more thing

i know autozone will rent them, and harbor freight has them cheap, but at the moment i have a problem with my license, so . . . i losened the hold nut on the CAS advanced a little then almost all the way, and did the same with retarding it and that did nothing

when i went to pressure test(s) the f pump and p regulator the hose was on there real good and i had to go to work so ill try again tommorow or this weekend.

forgot to mention this. i tokk the plugs out and they were BLACK (cleaned them up) so i beleive its gettig to much fuel. and during initial warm up were it idles at 3k the ECU richens the mixture, so i jumped the f pump connector and started it cold and it jumped to 4k rpm, so . . . im thinking the p regulator isnt doing its job right.

 

whens the last time youve had your injectors cleaned?

i clean my plugs every week or so anyway, i wouldnt count on those things staying clean for very long.

as far as timing goes, theres a thread here that someone posted(dont know where its at, but youll find it with a quick search) thats got a real clean couple of pics of the top side of your CAS, with the blind cap off, showing where the contact points should be when your yellow(or first marking) on the main pulley is lined up with the pin that sticks out.

easy way to line up the yellow with the pin...car off, in a gear, push the car forward and watch as the pulley turns and lines up.

license, registration, title, insurance...all theses things really suck and eat up money...sorry man but we gota do'em. good luck

 

run seafoam threw the map sensor line. it seriously fixed my idle!

how i did it-
Warm up car
pop hood
IMPORTANT- Do this in a well ventilated area!!!
remove vacuum line from map sensor and place in can of seafoam
IMPORTANT- seafoam will burn easy, have someone hold it as map sensor is on the side the exhaust is... if it falls onto the exhaust you will have a fire
remove EGI fuse
turn key over a couple seconds
wait a sec and turn it over once for good measure
wait 5 minutes
reinstall EGI fuse
start car
car will smoke do not set in car, step away.

let it run for 15 minutes then take it onto the freeway to clean out the remainder.

My car idles better and pulls harder, its retarded.

 

the previous owner didnt mention he cleaned the injectors but ive never done it since ive owned it.
i ran sefoam through the vac line to the b booster, i wouldnt think the line to pressure sensor would be any different.

 

getting your injectors cleaned is not a bad idea...its a little more than id like to pay, but witch hunter does back flow, triple sonic, flow test and theyll give you a print up of the test results, and they replace the grommets and the filters too i think...theyre pretty good, 20 bux per injector, decent price.

might want to replace your FPD(fuel pulsation damper)if you havent already, they have a tendancy to leak in 25yr old cars....which is bad, if your injectors or FPR leak right over top of the motor or exh mani, could catch fire if it gets hot enough. look for signs of pooling, easier if you got your UIM off.

also, get that AFM taken care of, youre not going to have a nice idle until your AFR(air/feul ratio) is balanced. you say you got an after market intake on there? personally id put the stock one back on there. i think the stock one does just as well if not better than most of those after market ones, however theres a considerable amount of opinion based arguments on the subject pertaining to whether theres any significant gains to the after market intakes.

your choice i guess, you got box for it, leading to the front of the car with a good opening right? so its not sucking in the hot air from the engine bay?

is your AFM in the same position as it was when the stock intake system was in there?

 

??what did you just say??..were you standing next to that tank?..carb cleaner?..(haha..just ribbin ya!)
anyways Lunar I think the TPS is the problem..(or vacuum leak.)
Karack is right too..Tons of RX7's and they each have their own Personalities!

 

this thread is still going O_o?

well I "kinda" got it working again, I just adjusted the idle higher and took the battery connections off from the battery for the day and now the car seems to run fine, just idles a little high (1k at times) which is weird but it works a lot better now

 

i too think the TPS needs some focus time. im just mentioning a couple other things that one could spend a little time on to help smoothen things out.

lunar, if possible you want it to idle lower than 1k, like i said 750 is about perfect, and it acheivable. if your batt is good and all the electrical lines are good, and your not noticing any sudden drop in the idle when your electrical load is high, then you could just adjust it to idle lower. the higher your idle is, the more money youll be spending on gas. and its kind of embarrising(at least to me) when sitting at a red light and it sounds like your reving.

 

no the intake i just put a cone filter on the AFM, the AFM is level and not tilted either way, and then theres a heat shield around the filter with the stock snorkel plumbed into the side of the heat shield.
and on the S5 you cant change the P dampner as it built into the primary rail and it and the rail are one piece. and im gonna have wichhunter clean the injectors but moneys a little tight, but i guess if i replace the f pump, p regulator another $120 + shipping isnt much

 

sounds good, as long as its plumbed nice and tight and its letting cool air in. btw, i thought you said the AFM tested bad? no?

ah, you have an s5...ok, kinda sucks how mazda put the damper a primary rail together, i heard those ones are a bit more sturdy yet, still subject to blow out...as long as its not leaking, then its not a major concern if there are other things that need to be done first, but it could be not working and not leaking at the same time, and if its not working then it can still pose a problem, just not as serious as would be if leaking too...you do know what that thing is for right?

did you complete the test procedure for the fuel pump? if not id suggest finish that and make sure that it is an issue before you start spending money on it...its always a good idea to replace the old with new, but if your money's a little tight, i know it can be difficult sometimes to prioritize what you need to spend money on first...its good you got it all priced out, and it doesnt sound like too bad a deal...but if its not your main problem, then you know what to do.

i think i got injs cleaned, s4 PD, O2 sensor, oil pick up tubes(4 the OMP), used working TPS, all new vacuum lines, new soft fuel lines, and other small tune up stuff(belts, fluids, spark plugs and wires, batt connectors), and a few tools for around $300.

i actually paid to get my timing done by the FD3SEngineering guys up in portland...really cool guys.

i still havent replaced my fuel pump yet, but after doin all that other ****, it still idles great.

like i said, just go through some test procedures and evaluate what needs done first, sometimes it doesnt equate what is cheapest.

best a luck to you man, let us know.