I finally got an FC!
Welcome!
As for maintenance, I love my Haynes manual. For repairs it can be annoyingly low on detail, but still ok. You can also download the FSM from the FAQ. The dirty color of your coolant means you definately need to change it. Be sure to replace the thermostat with an OEM thermostat (i.e., from a Mazda dealer) while you're at it. You should probably change all the other fluids, filters, etc. just in case. Glad you know to check the fuel pulsation dampener. Also look up "DTSS". If it's bad it can make your car spinout more easily or sometimes a bad DTSS can make your car unstable at high speeds.
To check the tranny fluid, jack up the car on the front left (driver's) side. On the N/A you see two plugs on the tranny. On the TII I think it's different, but I forget how (seperate fill/check plugs?). Anyway the side plug is for checking the level and filling, the bottom plug is for draining. Just open the side plug, stick your finger in there and make sure the fluid reaches the bottom of the hole.
Painting: A good paint job is expensive, a cheap paint job looks lousy and still costs you a little bit. If it were me I'd leave it alone, or just replace the hood. It's a good excuse to get an aluminum hood if you don't have one. www.paintscratch.com has touch up paint that's an excellent match. Various auto stores have rust removers, but I haven't tried them. If the clearcoat isn't actually gone you can try a clay bar to shine things up, then try some Zaino wax (www.zainostore.com). It'd take a day or two to clay bar an old car though. That made my old paint look like new, but in my case my paint hasn't faded and I still have most of my clearcoat.
As for maintenance, I love my Haynes manual. For repairs it can be annoyingly low on detail, but still ok. You can also download the FSM from the FAQ. The dirty color of your coolant means you definately need to change it. Be sure to replace the thermostat with an OEM thermostat (i.e., from a Mazda dealer) while you're at it. You should probably change all the other fluids, filters, etc. just in case. Glad you know to check the fuel pulsation dampener. Also look up "DTSS". If it's bad it can make your car spinout more easily or sometimes a bad DTSS can make your car unstable at high speeds.
To check the tranny fluid, jack up the car on the front left (driver's) side. On the N/A you see two plugs on the tranny. On the TII I think it's different, but I forget how (seperate fill/check plugs?). Anyway the side plug is for checking the level and filling, the bottom plug is for draining. Just open the side plug, stick your finger in there and make sure the fluid reaches the bottom of the hole.
Painting: A good paint job is expensive, a cheap paint job looks lousy and still costs you a little bit. If it were me I'd leave it alone, or just replace the hood. It's a good excuse to get an aluminum hood if you don't have one. www.paintscratch.com has touch up paint that's an excellent match. Various auto stores have rust removers, but I haven't tried them. If the clearcoat isn't actually gone you can try a clay bar to shine things up, then try some Zaino wax (www.zainostore.com). It'd take a day or two to clay bar an old car though. That made my old paint look like new, but in my case my paint hasn't faded and I still have most of my clearcoat.
Last edited by ericgrau; Jun 19, 2007 at 12:12 AM.
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LongDuck
1st Generation Specific (1979-1985)
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