http://mysite.verizon.net/erikthedead/rx7.wmv

(use Windows Media player, and say "open URL")


Ok, new spark plugs, re-wired injector lines, capped emisions and removed emisions, silicon vac lines instaled, block off plates, etc.

checked for spark - Yes
fuel? old plugs were soaked after trying to start
pulled fuzes to un-flood, video is after i de-flooded and pop'd in the new plugs.

Can anyone figure out what is wrong?

ANY input is apreciated, i've been too long without my baby...but i guess it making noises makes me feel better since it is coming from...




Thanks

~Erik

 

It sounds to me as if something isn't hooked up correctly.
It also sounds like it's not getting spark or way way too much fuel.
Not sure.
sorry dude.

~suds

 

yeah, I would double check all the vac line connections.... and double what suds said... I'm racing you to see who get's their's working first

-Myk

 

using a multimeter on the ECU to check each injector they all read correctly...we pulled spark plug to check for spark, and it is.

 

Maybe one or more of your injectors is stuck open allowing for too much fuel to be injected on cranking. You said you redid the injector wiring, maybe one of the wires is grounding accidently. I know I have done that before. Recheck all the wiring and make sure there is no breaks in the wire.

 

Must have had a engine fire. Right?

Story: I bought a turboii that was a salvage vehicle. Burnt like yours. The FPR was melted/clogged inside and would not flow/regulate.

Pull the plug off the fuel pump. Pull the plugs and spin the engine to clear it out. Reinstall the plugs. Spray starter fluid into the air filter for about two seconds. Try to start the car. If it starts for a moment, then it must be a fuel related problem. Remove and replace the FPR and try again.

 

My engine sounds the same....
But my problem is too much coolant in the engine and it keeps fouling up the spark plugs.
So you have spark and fuel.... have you checked for compression?
I'm also racing you guys on who gets their car running first

 

1st, your cranking time is wayyyy too long, that is a good way to burn up a starter, i had engine troubles and i was easier on mine than that and it didn't last much longer after i did get it running properly.


2nd, try running a compression check, it sounds erratic so you may have to try some atf to get it up and running again.

Hailers has a good suggestion also, if it had a fire and you are reusing the fuel rails then it likely has a burnt diaphragm in the regulator and is either bypassing all the fuel in the system or clogged and overpressurizing it, try putting a fuel pressure guage on it and see what your readings are.

 

it's a new fuel rail.

I have a brand new starter sitting on my table, but i'm being told it's not the starter that is the problem, so it will remain there for now...

 

its not the starter but cranking like that will cause its premature death.

i would still try getting a fuel pressure reading and compression reaing just to be sure you have compression and proper fuel pressure, if you really are too anxious to try those steps you could just try adding a couple of drops of atf to each rotor through the leading plug holes and see if that helps. sometimes after sitting rotaries tend to lose compression because parts get sticky as the oil washes off of them.

 

well you checked:
fuel
spark

now you need to check compresssion
then timing

if these two are spot on then you should be running, if not check for injector pulse. and THEN if you still arent running check AFM integrity to be sure it still works

then if all these are working then it should be good to go

PS the video doesnt work for me

 

compression is the #1 cause for flooding, #2 is a blown inner coolant seal. i would suspect #1 is the cause at this time because #2 is kind of pricey and it did run but depending on how hot the car got it is possible the inner seal could have gotten cooked.

 

I remember when this car caught on fire in the summer, you just got it out too! bad FPD.
Anyways, you said that the injectors are still the same, just re-wired? they might be seriously fucked from all that heat man, you should get them flow tested at cruzin or somethin.

*edit*
oh yea, and cranking the engine like that can overload your coils. Maximum like 5 second turn overs with the starter man.. Its possible that your compression is also shitty, and or your spark is not powerfull enoughe to ignight the AF. Check the plug wires for kinks and ****, and make sure the plugs are cleaned and are gapped accordingly. Finally, a compression test.

 

Ok first of all, with out a compression reading you really cant diagnose a problem...
second.. to me it sounds like its flooded, or there is coolant entering the chamber.
but if it has no compression, forget about starting the thing...

 

the car was switched over to HI injectors, since that is what we had avalible, injectors and wires, and hoses are new. It should have compression - it did before the fire, and it started after the fire (and then instantly would turn off due to the fact the vac hoses were gone), but before the tear down...

 

Did you install a new series four fuel rail with the removable FPR or did you install a series five fuel rail with the built in FPR?

Are you planning on looking at the fuel rail pressure? as suggested above?

I still suggest unplugging the fuel pump and clearing the engine, then spraying some starter fluid in the air filter for about two seconds or so, then trying to start the engine.

When you clear the engine out, hopefully by pulling the lower plugs out, you can check the compression either with your finger or a compression gauge.

 

This might sound dumb, but did you get the right impedence injector for your car?

 

no, he got high impidence (HI) injectors with resistor clip thingys....

 

try unflooding the car. Pull the top two fuses 30A, 40A. Crank the engine for 10 sec. or so w/ the pedal to the floor. Put the two fuses back in.....start the car with no gas pressed. It may not work the first time....depending on how flooded it is. This is what I have to do when my car floods out. It's worth a shot.

 

that video is after he already de-flooded it...

 

we removed the resistor pack in the process of switching it over to HI injectors, they all read correctly at like 12-14 ohms, whichever was the right reading, it was reading that.

 

I dont like the idea of starting fluid in a rotary. Considering that it takes away the lubrication of the apex and side seals :O

 

I can hear low compression across 1 seal - maybe a small crack.
I have the same condition.
Also the cranking RPM is just a little slow. The battery may need a cuick recharge or jump.

It wants to flood again.
The stock ECU runs the pump at high voltage while cranking, which feeds just a bit too much fuel for our tired old engines.

My temporary fix was to run a wire to the fuel pump voltage signal at the ECU (pin 3D on yours).
Then I connected a push button to use while cranking, to ground that pin, which holds low voltage to the pump.

 

if it has been flooded that much, you will definately have to re-lubricate the apexes using ATF, MMO, motor oil, whatever you like. I use MMO. just put about 3 ounces in each leading plug hole, crank it for a couple seconds with the plugs out, then put them back in, spray some strter fluid in the intake, and crank it up. if it doesnt go the first time, switch plugs and try again. you can also put some starter fluid in the plug holes before you put the new ones on this time. also leave the fuel turned off for this whole procedure. you cant pull the EGI fuse, because it will cut spark, too, so pull the plug off the fuel pump relay on the steering column under the dash.

you may have to repeat this procedure a couple times to get it to actually start.

if this doesnt work, then you have a more serious problem, either timing or blown engine.

pat

 

durring the video it was hooked up to my Prelude for a jump