Sudowoodo

iTrader: (1)

Hi all. I have an S5 hybrid turbo with a T04S compressor housing. I can't get it to clear the LIM so that I can fully tighten the bolts for the manifold. I've already grinded the turbo and LIM down to make more room, but its not enough. I'm afraid to grind anymore and risk putting a hole or ruining the structural integrity in either. Here's a picture to show what I've grinded so far, albeit not a great picture.


I'm stumped about what I should do to get it to clear. Am I okay to grind more, or should I pursue other options?

I bought a racing beat exhaust flange to use as a spacer in anticipation of this, but its too thick (1/2 an inch) and leaves only about one thread for a bolt on the engine studs for the exhaust manifold. Nobody near me has the ability to grind the thickness down on it either. Are there any extended studs I could get that would work well?

A custom manifold would be awesome, but I don't have the ability to do that, or the money to afford it really. So, any ideas or experience is very appreciated.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

can't help ya, i wouldn't recommend anything larger than a TO4E on a hybrid, a S is too large for that turbine imo and the fitment issues you're now finding out about.

ok ok i can give you 1 suggestion, get a RB manifold plate(used for fabricating manifolds) and use it as a 1/2 spacer, should do the trick but you'll need another gasket also.

hopefully it is balanced well due to the imbalance in the wheel sizes.

Sudowoodo

iTrader: (1)

It has a P-trim turbine wheel, so everything works well together. I actually have an RB spacer/flange, but the studs are too short to use it. I was talking to my friend about it, and he said that I could actually use bolts that have the same diameter and thread pitch in place of the studs. So I'm thinking about doing that.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

yeah you could, the later series engines had longer studs on the exhaust. just use quality fasteners and not just simple grade 8 from the hardware store. stainless steel or inconel are recommended. longer studs would be ideal, since the difference in metals will eventually destroy the threads if you have to remove them more than a few times.

Sudowoodo

iTrader: (1)

Good point about the threads deteriorating. Would the FD studs work? And are they longer?

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

You can find longer studs at any auto parts place.

Sudowoodo

iTrader: (1)

So just get normal m12x1.5 studs? How long are the stock studs exactly? I couldn't find a specified length anywhere

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

If I am not mistaken they are 12x1.25.
Not sure of length either.

Sudowoodo

iTrader: (1)

Oh okay. Thanks. I'll see what I can find and buy a few different lengths and see what works best. I'll post up with my final solution so this thread may help someone else with the same issue in the future.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

I just thought about something..not sure how it would work,but maybe..
(If you can't find a stud)

Use a 1.25 BOLT..come UP through the bottom of the manifold so that it "turns into a Stud" at the turbo flange.
The bolt would actually thread into the manifold to hold it.

Sudowoodo

iTrader: (1)

Hmm I'm not sure if I'm understanding perfectly. I'm trying to get new studs on the engine, since that's what I have a spacer for.

GrossPolluter

iTrader: (1)

Get longer studs, try mcmastercarr.com. get another gasket too.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

FD studs are longer, not sure but its like the FC is ~30mm long and the FD is ~50mm?

Sudowoodo

iTrader: (1)

I went ahead and ordered FD studs through mazda

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

..Oh DUH..wrong flange!
I understand now,you are spacing the exhaust flange ( 2 hole at the engine)..
I thought the T4 flange.
Sorry about that...
ya know.ya know what they say....ShouldaCouldaWoodo...!...lol!

GrossPolluter

iTrader: (1)

I've never had a hybrid that big to do it, but I always thought it was the flange at the engine also. I don't know anywhere with the flange like the s5 t2. Also, from the looks of my manifold, spacing out the either flange would be the same

Sudowoodo

iTrader: (1)

Hahaha. I say it all the time.

And yes, since on the manifold the flange to the turbo and the flange to the engine are parallel, spacing either would yield the same result. Although I would be more comfortable spacing the turbo from the manifold so that my water return line would be farther from the exhaust manifold, but trying to find a spacer/flange for the turbo to manifold flange is pretty darn hard. So I settled for the engine to manifold flange.

The FD studs will be at my local Mazda dealership Friday, so I'll get to work on the car Friday when I get off work from my easy job (my hard job is keeping this darn car working well). If anyone is interested in how this hybrid performs just look in my build thread "86 GXL to turbo build" this weekend. I'll post updates on how the turbo performs there after I get a rough tune. I'm anxious to get it working perfectly.

RXSpeed16

iTrader: (41)

Speaking of which, you may want to figure out how to make the oil lines fit with your spacer on there.
The lower line can probably use a spacer between the flex hose and front cover tube. The top oil line will need some massaging, but not sure if you can take up 1/2". Maybe look into replacing it with the flexible line kit off ebay.

Sudowoodo

iTrader: (1)

I got a stainless line kit from cx racing. Drain line is AN and fit well with cutting, the top one is junk because it came with both female ends and I need a male to fit the turbo feed on the engine. I'm confident that I can massage the top line enough though. I'll heat it up a bit so it wont stress it much.

PvillKnight7

iTrader: (16)

Rotate the housing and grind more. It should fit. I have this setup and had to remove a bit of aluminum from both parts. The LIM is about .25" thick.