hybrid TO4B turbo installed; more lag than stock?
#29
Alright...
I got the frikkin' S-AFC to turn on, the INTERNALS of the thing were all disconnected and crap!??!!
I put it back together and got it to turn on... Now I'm going to reconnect the AFM wires and see if I can get it installed correctly.
Sorry for the nonsense posts, but I mean c'mon, the thing was JACKED, lol.
I got the frikkin' S-AFC to turn on, the INTERNALS of the thing were all disconnected and crap!??!!
I put it back together and got it to turn on... Now I'm going to reconnect the AFM wires and see if I can get it installed correctly.
Sorry for the nonsense posts, but I mean c'mon, the thing was JACKED, lol.
#30
It works perfectly with the AFM signal wires connected...
It SHOULD'VE worked perfectly frikkin' FOUR HOURS ago, but the thing had been TAMPERED with... lol.
Fuel pump is up next.
One more question; I have similar mods to the previous owner, and he had it tuned for this setup... How do I retrieve his settings to use as my base map? Or should they be default or something?
It SHOULD'VE worked perfectly frikkin' FOUR HOURS ago, but the thing had been TAMPERED with... lol.
Fuel pump is up next.
One more question; I have similar mods to the previous owner, and he had it tuned for this setup... How do I retrieve his settings to use as my base map? Or should they be default or something?
#31
Fuel pump is installed.
Greddy 720cc's up next.
It was funny, I asked the guy at Radioshack if they had any "10ohm, 10watt resistors" for the low impedence injectors and he brought me over to the electrical 'drawers' and started fishing around. After about 2 minutes of him frowning, grunting and poking around he turned around and told me; "I majored in electronics and I've never heard of such a high wattage"...
I know very little about electronic type stuff (aside from an occasional stereo install), so I took his word and went to an auto store. They told me they didn't have anything like that and to try Radioshack. lol.
Very confused, I drove home to re-check rotaryresurrection.com for the fuel injector info and sure enough it was 10ohm, 10watt resistors, that can be found at Radioshack.
I drove back to the 'shack' and prompty strode over to where the drawers were, opened up the one he had been looking in, glanced around for 10 seconds before finding... 10ohm, 10 watt resistors, lol. I told the guy at the front counter that I found exactly what I needed and the "electronics major" mumbled something and pretended to be doing something important, lol...
Greddy 720cc's up next.
It was funny, I asked the guy at Radioshack if they had any "10ohm, 10watt resistors" for the low impedence injectors and he brought me over to the electrical 'drawers' and started fishing around. After about 2 minutes of him frowning, grunting and poking around he turned around and told me; "I majored in electronics and I've never heard of such a high wattage"...
I know very little about electronic type stuff (aside from an occasional stereo install), so I took his word and went to an auto store. They told me they didn't have anything like that and to try Radioshack. lol.
Very confused, I drove home to re-check rotaryresurrection.com for the fuel injector info and sure enough it was 10ohm, 10watt resistors, that can be found at Radioshack.
I drove back to the 'shack' and prompty strode over to where the drawers were, opened up the one he had been looking in, glanced around for 10 seconds before finding... 10ohm, 10 watt resistors, lol. I told the guy at the front counter that I found exactly what I needed and the "electronics major" mumbled something and pretended to be doing something important, lol...
#32
Sharp Claws
iTrader: (30)
rofl, yeah i know they have them at radio shack, they are the largest resistors they stock..
as for the settings, if you haven't initialized the SAFC then his settings should still be in there.
edit: and next time you visit ask the electronics major why he is working at radio shack, lol. 10watts is a bit high but it is there for protection, you don't want to be stuck on the side of the road with blown resistors. i never even finished school because i could never find anything that interested me but i can say i am making a hell of a lot more than he is.
as for the settings, if you haven't initialized the SAFC then his settings should still be in there.
edit: and next time you visit ask the electronics major why he is working at radio shack, lol. 10watts is a bit high but it is there for protection, you don't want to be stuck on the side of the road with blown resistors. i never even finished school because i could never find anything that interested me but i can say i am making a hell of a lot more than he is.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 07-17-05 at 02:25 AM.
#36
Well, it drove like crap. I've got a vaccumn leak somewhere... I know it's a small hose because the car still pulled 10 vaccumn (or whatever it is when it's negative pressure) at 1200rpm idle. Also, as I continued driving it and warming it up the idle seemed to climb the longer I drove it (a total of 20 minutes), so at the end it was at around 2100rpm's when I shut it off. Before all my work the car would hold a perfect 700rpm idle.
It's pretty slow and it was occasionally sporadic and would bog higher in the rpm's...
Ghetto.
It's pretty slow and it was occasionally sporadic and would bog higher in the rpm's...
Ghetto.
#38
FC Revolution
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Originally Posted by eriksseven
Fuel pump is installed.
Greddy 720cc's up next.
It was funny, I asked the guy at Radioshack if they had any "10ohm, 10watt resistors" for the low impedence injectors and he brought me over to the electrical 'drawers' and started fishing around. After about 2 minutes of him frowning, grunting and poking around he turned around and told me; "I majored in electronics and I've never heard of such a high wattage"...
I know very little about electronic type stuff (aside from an occasional stereo install), so I took his word and went to an auto store. They told me they didn't have anything like that and to try Radioshack. lol.
Very confused, I drove home to re-check rotaryresurrection.com for the fuel injector info and sure enough it was 10ohm, 10watt resistors, that can be found at Radioshack.
I drove back to the 'shack' and prompty strode over to where the drawers were, opened up the one he had been looking in, glanced around for 10 seconds before finding... 10ohm, 10 watt resistors, lol. I told the guy at the front counter that I found exactly what I needed and the "electronics major" mumbled something and pretended to be doing something important, lol...
Greddy 720cc's up next.
It was funny, I asked the guy at Radioshack if they had any "10ohm, 10watt resistors" for the low impedence injectors and he brought me over to the electrical 'drawers' and started fishing around. After about 2 minutes of him frowning, grunting and poking around he turned around and told me; "I majored in electronics and I've never heard of such a high wattage"...
I know very little about electronic type stuff (aside from an occasional stereo install), so I took his word and went to an auto store. They told me they didn't have anything like that and to try Radioshack. lol.
Very confused, I drove home to re-check rotaryresurrection.com for the fuel injector info and sure enough it was 10ohm, 10watt resistors, that can be found at Radioshack.
I drove back to the 'shack' and prompty strode over to where the drawers were, opened up the one he had been looking in, glanced around for 10 seconds before finding... 10ohm, 10 watt resistors, lol. I told the guy at the front counter that I found exactly what I needed and the "electronics major" mumbled something and pretended to be doing something important, lol...
The same thing has happend to me. Those radioshack people arn't that smart.....
LOL LOL
Gil
#39
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Originally Posted by eriksseven
Well, it drove like crap. I've got a vaccumn leak somewhere... I know it's a small hose because the car still pulled 10 vaccumn (or whatever it is when it's negative pressure) at 1200rpm idle. Also, as I continued driving it and warming it up the idle seemed to climb the longer I drove it (a total of 20 minutes), so at the end it was at around 2100rpm's when I shut it off. Before all my work the car would hold a perfect 700rpm idle.
It's pretty slow and it was occasionally sporadic and would bog higher in the rpm's...
Ghetto.
It's pretty slow and it was occasionally sporadic and would bog higher in the rpm's...
Ghetto.
If you boght a used SAFC, it might be busted. I had boght a used one and it stuttered really bad at 5000 rpm. I boght a new one and no stutter what so ever, just thoght i let you know.
gil
#40
Alright, I got the vacuumn leak fixed. It was a little 'L' shaped hose with one of those green and white '*****' in the center of it that looks like a bouy(sp?). It came off of the back of the UIM when I was taking it off.
So with the vacuumn leak fixed, it held idle perfectly at around 750rpm's with the vacuumn holding right around -10 (or whatever), this was about how much vacuumn it used to hold at idle before the turbo, injectors, pump and S-AFC (it's street-ported).
Upon driving it with the new setup, the max boost I reached was 10psi at around 5.5k RPM's in 3rd gear, before it started to drop down, reaching 7psi by 7k RPM's.
Frusterated, I decided to swap out my (fully tightened) MBC for the one that the seller sent with the turbo (set for 13psi). My thinking was that maybe the spring inside would be stiffer than the one in the MBC that I made myself.
Well, it definitely wasn't close to 13psi... More like 8psi max boost. Several runs it would spike to 10psi though, before quickly dropping down to 7psi.
I did a freeway run in 5th gear. Now, with the stock turbo set to 10-11psi it would reach full boost by around 3k RPM's or so IIRC. The new hybrid turbo reached a MAX BOOST OF 5 PSI by 4k RPM's and held it until letting off at 5.5k RPM's.
What's the deal? Is it all the fuel? Is my WG actuator arm to 'weak'? Is it a boost leak?
Why does the hybrid pull 1/2 as hard at 8psi then my stock setup at 11psi?
The seller put down 185whp on his stock setup at 11psi, when he dyno'd with the hybrid he put down 247whp at 11psi.
My car feels about 160whp ONLY between 5-6.5k RPM's.
Need help
So with the vacuumn leak fixed, it held idle perfectly at around 750rpm's with the vacuumn holding right around -10 (or whatever), this was about how much vacuumn it used to hold at idle before the turbo, injectors, pump and S-AFC (it's street-ported).
Upon driving it with the new setup, the max boost I reached was 10psi at around 5.5k RPM's in 3rd gear, before it started to drop down, reaching 7psi by 7k RPM's.
Frusterated, I decided to swap out my (fully tightened) MBC for the one that the seller sent with the turbo (set for 13psi). My thinking was that maybe the spring inside would be stiffer than the one in the MBC that I made myself.
Well, it definitely wasn't close to 13psi... More like 8psi max boost. Several runs it would spike to 10psi though, before quickly dropping down to 7psi.
I did a freeway run in 5th gear. Now, with the stock turbo set to 10-11psi it would reach full boost by around 3k RPM's or so IIRC. The new hybrid turbo reached a MAX BOOST OF 5 PSI by 4k RPM's and held it until letting off at 5.5k RPM's.
What's the deal? Is it all the fuel? Is my WG actuator arm to 'weak'? Is it a boost leak?
Why does the hybrid pull 1/2 as hard at 8psi then my stock setup at 11psi?
The seller put down 185whp on his stock setup at 11psi, when he dyno'd with the hybrid he put down 247whp at 11psi.
My car feels about 160whp ONLY between 5-6.5k RPM's.
Need help
Last edited by eriksseven; 07-17-05 at 11:18 PM.
#41
MP T-70 = Fun
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how is it tuned? if your helllla rich then it wont boost. time to get a wide band or some dyno time. go to the high map and take it down to 0% all the way ... the whole thing. at 12psi id say you couls leave it at 0 and be pretty close.
its all in the tune. you should be able to get full 12psi boost in first right about 5.5k... and much earlier in 2nd.
its the tuning.
get it to 12/13psi and it will pull very hard. this turbo has a more aggressive wheel than the bnr stage 1. 15psi is its sweet spot.
its all in the tune. you should be able to get full 12psi boost in first right about 5.5k... and much earlier in 2nd.
its the tuning.
get it to 12/13psi and it will pull very hard. this turbo has a more aggressive wheel than the bnr stage 1. 15psi is its sweet spot.
Last edited by sleeperfc; 07-17-05 at 11:12 PM.
#43
Sharp Claws
iTrader: (30)
well it does need to be tuned but i don't think that is your boost problem. sounds like the spring tension can't hold back the wastegate flapper, you may need to modify the arm like i talked about earlier to put more tension on it. it could also be a boost leak in one of the intake hoses, check all your hoses for cracks/splits.
#44
MP T-70 = Fun
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it boosted just fine on my car. im working out the setup on AIM with him. i was able to hit 15psi in 1st... on race gas at the track. clutch totally let go on the 2nd to 3rd shift... i coasted to a 14.0.... i wish i could stayed on it and got that 12.
i ran my 13.3 on the same clutch (stock, came with the car!) at 13psi. had to shift sooo easy.
i ran my 13.3 on the same clutch (stock, came with the car!) at 13psi. had to shift sooo easy.
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