2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

How are you guys running fuel pump rewire through pump cradle.

Old May 29, 2013 | 10:43 PM
  #26  
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I remember my bros walbro was hooked up all.ghetto in his eclipse gsx and every time he took a hard turn it'd spill fuel and smell really bad. Needless to say lighting cigerettes in the car had to be done with the windows open lol.

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Old May 30, 2013 | 06:41 AM
  #27  
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Well, I think I will have to order me.some proper fuel tank bulkhead connectors. While i figure that out i will wire it as suggested by rotaryevolotion. Solder my 10ga to the factory bulkhead connector wire and redo the ground the same.
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Old May 30, 2013 | 08:35 AM
  #28  
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I shouldn't need these bulkhead connectors to rewire my walbro I hope

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Old May 30, 2013 | 09:19 AM
  #29  
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I never rewired my walbro 255. The only reason I want to do it perfect is due to the 340 pump asking for more juice so my power and ground wires for it are getting hot. Really hot.

loosing fuel press is a big no no. I'm not loosing an engine, so I'm kinda going all out in order to be ready for 14+ psi. Im currently at 7psi.
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Old May 30, 2013 | 10:02 AM
  #30  
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I'm wanting a better wiring setup then stock so that's why I am going to rewire mine

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Old May 30, 2013 | 12:15 PM
  #31  
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I ended up burning a wire up inside the tank with just an fd pump. I'm switching to a walbro 485 so I'm going 10ga and 40amp relay. You can never have too much power to the pump.
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Old May 30, 2013 | 01:57 PM
  #32  
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FWIW - fuel tank electrical bulkhead connectors: Triple-R: Engine Rebuild - Dual Fuel Pumps and Tank Improvements
Regards,
Crispy
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Old May 30, 2013 | 02:01 PM
  #33  
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Any suggestions for me with using walbro 255?

How about a battery Choice while using stock s4 alternator? Red top or yellow top optima? Regular battery?

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Old Jun 2, 2013 | 06:15 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by RotaryEvolution
epoxy won't work, get the proper bulkhead junctions. if it's not 100% sealed it WILL leak fuel.

even wires run through the top of the tank will carry fuel and vapors through into the cabin. the tank is pressurized when it heats up. it will work as a temporary solution but not a permanent one.
Hi mate,
Good advice. I'm planning to use JB Weld as it's claimed to be 100% fuel proof (including ethanol). Re the wire's leaking fuel up them - I hadn't thought of that. I suppose I can slit the wires before they breach the cover plate. I have made a rubber seal for that plate previously as I thought I had a fuel leak. Turned out it was because my charcole canister wasn't connected to a vacume line (d'oh).
I also run a fuel cooler (with fan) - which I installed per the above also.
If things don't work out I know I can change to the bulkhead junctions - let's hope I don't need to.
Cheers!
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Old Jun 5, 2013 | 05:33 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by TDIT

Hi mate,
Good advice. I'm planning to use JB Weld as it's claimed to be 100% fuel proof (including ethanol). Re the wire's leaking fuel up them - I hadn't thought of that. I suppose I can slit the wires before they breach the cover plate. I have made a rubber seal for that plate previously as I thought I had a fuel leak. Turned out it was because my charcole canister wasn't connected to a vacume line (d'oh).
I also run a fuel cooler (with fan) - which I installed per the above also.
If things don't work out I know I can change to the bulkhead junctions - let's hope I don't need to.
Cheers!
I've just had a slight brain storm. Forget the wires. Forget gas creeping up. I've ordered 2 12mm (half inch) plastic bolts.
Step one: drill a core down the center.
Step two: insert a stainless steal bolt down the center with a stainless washer, a wire connector, wafer washer and Jb weld as a sealer. At the other end use another smeer of Jb, then wafer, stainless washer, wire connector, washer, bolt, second bolt, then Jb weld. Do that twice.

Now you have two solid core, high current connectors in a nice safe plastic threaded bolt. You can then drill through the tank flange, insert the bolt with more wafer washers top and bottom. You can then connect your wires directly to the inside wire connectors (I'll also solder mine), then seal the inside completely in Jb weld. The Jb will protect the plastic from the fuel and ensure it all stays together.

Do the same on the outside and you're done!

No leaks, no current issues and it will last forever. Will.post on my 20b thread when done.
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Old Jun 5, 2013 | 07:16 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by TDIT
I've just had a slight brain storm. Forget the wires. Forget gas creeping up. I've ordered 2 12mm (half inch) plastic bolts.
Step one: drill a core down the center.
Step two: insert a stainless steal bolt down the center with a stainless washer, a wire connector, wafer washer and Jb weld as a sealer. At the other end use another smeer of Jb, then wafer, stainless washer, wire connector, washer, bolt, second bolt, then Jb weld. Do that twice.

Now you have two solid core, high current connectors in a nice safe plastic threaded bolt. You can then drill through the tank flange, insert the bolt with more wafer washers top and bottom. You can then connect your wires directly to the inside wire connectors (I'll also solder mine), then seal the inside completely in Jb weld. The Jb will protect the plastic from the fuel and ensure it all stays together.

Do the same on the outside and you're done!

No leaks, no current issues and it will last forever. Will.post on my 20b thread when done.
This is essentially what my connectors were (not sure about the "plastic" though - youmight want to make sure it is indeed fuel compatible). Nonetheless according to the FORUM brain trust they are no good.... thusly your proposal is no good either... even though mine haven't leaked or weeped fuel in 4 years including some hard track use. I even pulled the cover and checked my car last night in case I had an issue. They look exactly as they did the day I installed them with no evidence of fuel to speak of. :-p
YMMV,
Crispy
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Old Jun 5, 2013 | 08:22 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by CrispyRX7
FWIW - fuel tank electrical bulkhead connectors: Triple-R: Engine Rebuild - Dual Fuel Pumps and Tank Improvements
Regards,
Crispy
Thanks for the info!


I wasnt able to find the item on the Engine Works site, but I found them on Summit:

Red - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-74144

Black - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-74145
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Old Jun 5, 2013 | 06:19 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by CrispyRX7
This is essentially what my connectors were (not sure about the "plastic" though - youmight want to make sure it is indeed fuel compatible). Nonetheless according to the FORUM brain trust they are no good.... thusly your proposal is no good either... even though mine haven't leaked or weeped fuel in 4 years including some hard track use. I even pulled the cover and checked my car last night in case I had an issue. They look exactly as they did the day I installed them with no evidence of fuel to speak of. :-p
YMMV,
Crispy
Hi Mate!

I hear you. The reason I chose jb weld is it's 100% fuel safe when fully set. So sealing the bolt etc will make them perfectly safe and sound for many years. It is good to see other have done it already. Lets me know the grey matter is still working. As for the brain trust, many things can be hit and miss. For example, my original idea was a miss. This solves all those problems and, like your setup, I'm confident it will be a set and forget.

Cheers!
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Old Jun 5, 2013 | 06:21 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by KNONFS
Thanks for the info!


I wasnt able to find the item on the Engine Works site, but I found them on Summit:

Red - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-74144

Black - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-74145
They look great But I'm still happy to make mine
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