How To Wire A/F Gauge?
How To Wire A/F Gauge?
I just bought an air/fuel autometer gauge.
First off, where do I plug it in? And how does the gauge know if I am running lean or rich since its universal?
First off, where do I plug it in? And how does the gauge know if I am running lean or rich since its universal?
Strength and Honor
Joined: Apr 2006
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From: CA bay area
Originally Posted by F.C.3S;
...where do I plug it in? And how does the gauge know if I am running lean or rich since its universal?
On S4s!
Joined: Feb 2001
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From: London, Ontario, Canada
Correction: Narrowbands are useless for those people who don't know how to interpret their readings.
As for the installation, there will generally be three wires. + goes to a IGN switched 12V source, ground goes to a GOOD ground, and then the third wire connects to the stock O2 sensor. You can grab the O2 connection at the ECU to avoid having to run a wire into the engine bay. Check the wiring diagram in the Haynes/FSM.
As for the installation, there will generally be three wires. + goes to a IGN switched 12V source, ground goes to a GOOD ground, and then the third wire connects to the stock O2 sensor. You can grab the O2 connection at the ECU to avoid having to run a wire into the engine bay. Check the wiring diagram in the Haynes/FSM.
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Correction: Narrowbands are useless for those people who don't know how to interpret their readings.
Wideband cuts out all the guess work, and you don't have to pull your plugs after a pull to be sure of what you are reading.
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 29,798
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From: London, Ontario, Canada
I searched for my name and "narrowband":
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=588112
FWIW, you can blow a front rotor/housing into a ******* lamp with the wideband buried at 10.0 anyways.......ask me how I know.
AFR is important, but its not everything.
AFR is important, but its not everything.
I was using a wideband with my standalone setup.. I removed the standalone and am purchasing a SAFC2.. Will I need to have a seperate guage for A/F even if I run the SAFC???
For boost, defi has some nice gauges. AutoMeter isnt bad.
Good explaination. To me, it seems that most people want to know what the car is doing under load. The narrowbands are much more affordable, and may be the right way to go for stock/near stock 7's. Also a good option for getting started with tuning fuel maps.
I also monitor AFR and EGT together. I think you almost have to unless you have the duel EGT gauge. If I get that one, I may not monitor wideband any longer.
A narrowband is not a tuning device, but it does have many useful functions. It will tell you when the engine is in closed loop if you intend to drive for mileage. It will tell you if you are stupidly rich or lean at a glance. A narrowband will let you know that the stock O2 sensor is working correctly, or if the stock emissions system is working as well (if that's a concern). If you know what you are doing (and most people clearly don't) then you can even do some rudimentary tuning on it.
For example, I rough tune all the time using a narrowband as a reference. Most of this tuning is done by "feel" but the narrowband is useful as it will confirm when you are in the ballpark. Then for the dyno, drivability and final tuning I use a wideband. Why? When a car has a base map, it's generally stupid rich. This will foul out an (expensive) wideband and make it read inaccurately later on. Thus it's far better to start on a $30 sensor then a $300 one.
Also keep in mind that A/F ratio readings from a wideband can get pretty wacky if there are misfires (either lean or rich misfires). Generally this will make the sensor read lean, so you end up adding fuel because the sensor tells you...
For example, I rough tune all the time using a narrowband as a reference. Most of this tuning is done by "feel" but the narrowband is useful as it will confirm when you are in the ballpark. Then for the dyno, drivability and final tuning I use a wideband. Why? When a car has a base map, it's generally stupid rich. This will foul out an (expensive) wideband and make it read inaccurately later on. Thus it's far better to start on a $30 sensor then a $300 one.
Also keep in mind that A/F ratio readings from a wideband can get pretty wacky if there are misfires (either lean or rich misfires). Generally this will make the sensor read lean, so you end up adding fuel because the sensor tells you...
I also monitor AFR and EGT together. I think you almost have to unless you have the duel EGT gauge. If I get that one, I may not monitor wideband any longer.
I'm looking at getting an AFR gauge, but it's a pretty basic autometer gauge. And what's EGT? I tried searching for it...
Aaron, I've looked at your site, but how do I find all these amazing writeups I see links to? I'm wondering if you have an AFR adjusting writeup or if someone else does.
Aaron, I've looked at your site, but how do I find all these amazing writeups I see links to? I'm wondering if you have an AFR adjusting writeup or if someone else does.
King of the Loop
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: brooklyn, New York
I'm looking at getting an AFR gauge, but it's a pretty basic autometer gauge. And what's EGT? I tried searching for it...
Aaron, I've looked at your site, but how do I find all these amazing writeups I see links to? I'm wondering if you have an AFR adjusting writeup or if someone else does.
Aaron, I've looked at your site, but how do I find all these amazing writeups I see links to? I'm wondering if you have an AFR adjusting writeup or if someone else does.
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