how to wire 5th and 6th ports open
10-27-03, 11:40 AM
#1
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how to wire 5th and 6th ports open
How do you wire these open and what is the main reason for doing so..I have noticed alot of people have done this and wondering if I should do the same..
10-27-03, 11:45 AM
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just press in the actuator rods on s4, opposite on s5 i think, and zip tie them in that position.
The reason most people do this is because we are too lazy to get them to work properly since most are all gummed up and don't move, or people have no way of actuating them because of an afterarket exhaust.
There are manythreads on how to clean your ports so they work, and there is also probably a dozen writeups on other ways to actate the rods.
By having them open all the time, you will lose a littl e torque in the lower power band on a stock car.
The reason most people do this is because we are too lazy to get them to work properly since most are all gummed up and don't move, or people have no way of actuating them because of an afterarket exhaust.
There are manythreads on how to clean your ports so they work, and there is also probably a dozen writeups on other ways to actate the rods.
By having them open all the time, you will lose a littl e torque in the lower power band on a stock car.
10-27-03, 12:36 PM
#4
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Actually the low end power loss is very noticable with the ports open.
To test them, I teed in a pressure gage and blew into the tube to check at what pressure they opened.
Then I routed the tube inside with the gage on the end, and did a test drive to see when they opened.
To see the performance difference, I teed a “mity-vac” hand pump in the tube near the guage, then did some low end a 3rd gear pulls from 2000 to 3500 rpm.
The time was more than 1 second faster with the ports closed.
The point is - with them working properly, you get a much wider power band.
To test them, I teed in a pressure gage and blew into the tube to check at what pressure they opened.
Then I routed the tube inside with the gage on the end, and did a test drive to see when they opened.
To see the performance difference, I teed a “mity-vac” hand pump in the tube near the guage, then did some low end a 3rd gear pulls from 2000 to 3500 rpm.
The time was more than 1 second faster with the ports closed.
The point is - with them working properly, you get a much wider power band.
10-27-03, 12:55 PM
#5
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Wired ports= Idiot's repair
I put wired ports on the same level as putting a 50 amp fuse in a 30 amp circuit because all of your 30 amp fuses keep blowing. It's just dumb unless you have some really extreme porting or a turbo or something like that.
There is a reason why those things are there to swing like they are supposed to. Put some effort into your car and just get them running again. You're just killing your low end and mid range by wiring them open.
I know I am going to come under an assault of people who are going to claim that they experienced no loss, or even better, experienced a gain by wiring open their ports, and even if you trust the ***-dyno, it doesn't change the fact that their cars most likely have something wrong with them to get a positive effect from doing a negative mod to their car.
Use the search function and you will find all that you need to get your 6PI working again. It is not THAT complicated of a system.
I put wired ports on the same level as putting a 50 amp fuse in a 30 amp circuit because all of your 30 amp fuses keep blowing. It's just dumb unless you have some really extreme porting or a turbo or something like that.
There is a reason why those things are there to swing like they are supposed to. Put some effort into your car and just get them running again. You're just killing your low end and mid range by wiring them open.
I know I am going to come under an assault of people who are going to claim that they experienced no loss, or even better, experienced a gain by wiring open their ports, and even if you trust the ***-dyno, it doesn't change the fact that their cars most likely have something wrong with them to get a positive effect from doing a negative mod to their car.
Use the search function and you will find all that you need to get your 6PI working again. It is not THAT complicated of a system.
10-27-03, 04:41 PM
#6
Originally posted by SureShot
Actually the low end power loss is very noticable with the ports open.
To test them, I teed in a pressure gage and blew into the tube to check at what pressure they opened.
Then I routed the tube inside with the gage on the end, and did a test drive to see when they opened.
To see the performance difference, I teed a “mity-vac” hand pump in the tube near the guage, then did some low end a 3rd gear pulls from 2000 to 3500 rpm.
The time was more than 1 second faster with the ports closed.
The point is - with them working properly, you get a much wider power band.
Actually the low end power loss is very noticable with the ports open.
To test them, I teed in a pressure gage and blew into the tube to check at what pressure they opened.
Then I routed the tube inside with the gage on the end, and did a test drive to see when they opened.
To see the performance difference, I teed a “mity-vac” hand pump in the tube near the guage, then did some low end a 3rd gear pulls from 2000 to 3500 rpm.
The time was more than 1 second faster with the ports closed.
The point is - with them working properly, you get a much wider power band.
10-27-03, 08:53 PM
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I have had the auxilary ports out 3 times now, cleaned the **** out of them and they still don't open. The vacuum acutator rods seem to work fine when I have blown through the vacuum line while I had them off the car and they don't seem to have a vacuum leak. The air pump is working. I haven't checked the sensor to see if it is working properly, but had a Mazda mechanic tell me he had never replaced one on an RX7. It's not that difficult of a job to take the valves out, but in my case it doesn't appear to be gummed up valves causing the problem. I have wired mine open until I have time to have the sensor checked.
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