How to Tint?
02-25-02, 09:58 AM
#1
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How to Tint?
I am really looking for or more or likely how to have a tint job done? I kind of am a dope and really don't know how it is done so a little feedback might be a little helpful. Thanks a lot and please share personal experiences as seen fit. Thanks again.
02-25-02, 11:04 AM
#2
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If you really want to try and attempt this...
#1 rule is to buy the BEST tint you can.  Quality tints really help when installing.
Tint films are basically a big piece of tape - keep that in mind.
#2 rule is to work in an area that is CLEAN as possible.  You'll be scratching you head trying to figure out how all that dirt and dust got under the tint film!  This also means you should work in a still area with little or no wind.
#3 rule - work in a cool area under roof.  Don't try this in the hot sun!
Once you get all of that down, you'll need a spray bottle, some liquid dish detergent (NOT SOAP!), a bunch of very sharp razor blades (I prefer single safety razors, but I've seen some people use utility knives), and a good squeegee (the squeegee can be bought at the tint place).  Oh yeah, get lots of towels and rags for clean-up...
Fill the spray bottle with water and add a few drops of liquid dish detergent.  The detergent cuts down surface tension and allows the water to sheet the glass better.  This also allows the water to dry very quickly, so keep this in mind!
Tint can be quickly precut but laying the tint on the OUTSIDE of the glass and cut to shape.  Keep in mind which side of the tint is the adhesive!  You might end up cutting a mirror image of the proper pattern!  Here's a hint, to keep the tint film in place before cutting, spray the film (with the backing!) with the spray bottle to help the tint stick to the outside of the glass.
Once you get a rough pattern on the tint, you're ready to stick it onto the inside of the glass.  Keep the spray bottle close-by as well as the squeegee and razors.  Spray the inside of the glass liberally.  Peel the backing off the tint and carefully install the tint on the inside window.  The water will help you relocated the tint, so don't be worried if it's a little off.  I like to install the tint from the top down.  Reposition the tint as appropriate.  Spray the tint again with the spray bottle.  Use the squeegee and gently glide over the tint - you're trying to get as much water out from under the tint as possible.  Once you feel the squeegee sticking a little, just spray more water onto the tint.  Take your time - this is where people get lazy and don't get all the water out.  The key to minimizing bubbles is to get as much water out from under the tint as possible with the squeegee.  After you're done, clean up all the excess water.  You might need a damp towel (with straight water) to wipe everything down, as the water/detergent mixture gets tacky and leaves a lot of water spots.
The back hatch glass is a little more complicated.  There's a slight curve to the glass, and I like to use two piece of tint to cover the whole hatch glass.  Also, it helps to have a hair dryer or heat gun to help with the "long" bubbles that's going to develop.  Once you get the center part of the tint down, use the heat gun to gently heat the tint film so it softens a bit.  Immediately squeegee over once you see the tint film ripple - don't wait too long, as the heat causes the water to evaporate very quickly.
Sounds like a big job?  That's the reason most people pay a shop to do this!
Good luck!
-Ted
#1 rule is to buy the BEST tint you can.  Quality tints really help when installing.
Tint films are basically a big piece of tape - keep that in mind.
#2 rule is to work in an area that is CLEAN as possible.  You'll be scratching you head trying to figure out how all that dirt and dust got under the tint film!  This also means you should work in a still area with little or no wind.
#3 rule - work in a cool area under roof.  Don't try this in the hot sun!
Once you get all of that down, you'll need a spray bottle, some liquid dish detergent (NOT SOAP!), a bunch of very sharp razor blades (I prefer single safety razors, but I've seen some people use utility knives), and a good squeegee (the squeegee can be bought at the tint place).  Oh yeah, get lots of towels and rags for clean-up...
Fill the spray bottle with water and add a few drops of liquid dish detergent.  The detergent cuts down surface tension and allows the water to sheet the glass better.  This also allows the water to dry very quickly, so keep this in mind!
Tint can be quickly precut but laying the tint on the OUTSIDE of the glass and cut to shape.  Keep in mind which side of the tint is the adhesive!  You might end up cutting a mirror image of the proper pattern!  Here's a hint, to keep the tint film in place before cutting, spray the film (with the backing!) with the spray bottle to help the tint stick to the outside of the glass.
Once you get a rough pattern on the tint, you're ready to stick it onto the inside of the glass.  Keep the spray bottle close-by as well as the squeegee and razors.  Spray the inside of the glass liberally.  Peel the backing off the tint and carefully install the tint on the inside window.  The water will help you relocated the tint, so don't be worried if it's a little off.  I like to install the tint from the top down.  Reposition the tint as appropriate.  Spray the tint again with the spray bottle.  Use the squeegee and gently glide over the tint - you're trying to get as much water out from under the tint as possible.  Once you feel the squeegee sticking a little, just spray more water onto the tint.  Take your time - this is where people get lazy and don't get all the water out.  The key to minimizing bubbles is to get as much water out from under the tint as possible with the squeegee.  After you're done, clean up all the excess water.  You might need a damp towel (with straight water) to wipe everything down, as the water/detergent mixture gets tacky and leaves a lot of water spots.
The back hatch glass is a little more complicated.  There's a slight curve to the glass, and I like to use two piece of tint to cover the whole hatch glass.  Also, it helps to have a hair dryer or heat gun to help with the "long" bubbles that's going to develop.  Once you get the center part of the tint down, use the heat gun to gently heat the tint film so it softens a bit.  Immediately squeegee over once you see the tint film ripple - don't wait too long, as the heat causes the water to evaporate very quickly.
Sounds like a big job?  That's the reason most people pay a shop to do this!
Good luck!
-Ted
02-25-02, 11:32 AM
#4
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Ted's descriptions are great, he hit everything right on.
The only thing I could think to add is vacuum the car before tinting. Wash the car before tinting, and wash out the garage or work area with lots of water before tinting, to keep the dust, lint and hairs to a minimum.
Also I am very partial to the solid blade minimum flex teflon squeegees, again as he mentioned often found at tint shops or also some plastic stores.
The only thing I could think to add is vacuum the car before tinting. Wash the car before tinting, and wash out the garage or work area with lots of water before tinting, to keep the dust, lint and hairs to a minimum.
Also I am very partial to the solid blade minimum flex teflon squeegees, again as he mentioned often found at tint shops or also some plastic stores.
02-25-02, 04:32 PM
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the guy that did my car got tint that was made for the rear window. it is only about 4 inches wide and he used multiple sheets to cover the entire window he used the lines made from the rear window defroster to cover the seams it looks amazing but it is very tedious to get the seems right over the defroster lines...
02-25-02, 04:44 PM
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Get it done professionally so you can get it right the first time. Otherwise you could waste a lot of time. How dark were you going for? Light I can't see through it type tint or just a little darker?
