SpeedRacer

You are going to want to stiffen the front AND rear brakes for a couple of reasons. One, if you just stifften the rear to prevent pitching, then your car is going to severly oversteer around corners. Two, even though the rear won't pitch as much, the front is still going to tend to squat as the front springs will still be softer. When the front squats, less pressure is put on the front tires, and your front tires are 70% or more of your braking power. The more weight you can transfer to the front tires on braking, the higher your coefficient of friction(traction), meaning harder braking before lockup. The other thing about stiffening your suspension, is you will have less body roll, transferring more lateral weight onto your tires in cornering giving you more grip in corners. And of course less body roll means your car reacts more quickly, and resets itself for the next corner more quickly.

89t295k

Didn't read all of it, but did anybody say the free stuff ....
1.
I cross drilled my rotors(need drill press and well thought out symetrics--1 hr per rotor)....huge diff, less weight-no fade.
Y would u want extra weight to hurt both brake and acc. with bigger rotors....... unless u can go with exotic/expensive race only rotors that weigh the same because of the materials.
2.
How's your psi...that's your brake controller right there, back wheels locking???Take some psi away or add some to front till u have them ballanced...then adjust both psi's till u get the best results.
3.
Take all the weight u can OFF the car
4.
Open all windows, put on big antena ball

After those freebees
Better Tires
SS Brake lines
Suspension
Parachute........ZOOOOOOM-------)

89t295k

lOl ...forgot, retro rockets or brick wall would work too.
He,He

theloudroom

I have the same problem with my '86 GXL. The rear tires lock before the front.

Pulling a 3 point turn on the track to get pointed in the right direction again really kills your time.

Post how it turns out.

ilike2eatricers

This thread is over a year old...

theloudroom

Gah!

Dang.

I wonder if he ever solved it.

cbrock

iTrader: (1)

Technically, by going with a larger diameter disk, you're creating a larger moment arm that will allow you to apply more braking torque. The size of the pad very rarely changes when upgrading, but the compound sure as hell will. In most applications, stock brake pads are designed for longevity, low noise and low dusting. These are the qualities that 99% of the drivers require. However, for that other 1%, the upgraded pads will have a higher friction coefficient while sacrificing noise, dusting and longevity.

On a side note, you find a larger disk brake that will fit our front spindles and it isn't very hard to make an adapter that will move our stock calipers further out to work with these rotors.

So basically in order of necessity:

-Bigger, better, stickier tires
-Hi-Po brake pads
-Good brake fluid (might put this as #1)
-Larger diameter disks

89t295k

Sorry guys...didn't see how old it was...