how should the stock fan work
i think mine is sonstantly running it seams to go teh speed of the engen
is this correct or do i have a problem ?
my engen's temp stays the same well in between 1/4 and 2/3 of the range on the temp gage
is this correct or do i have a problem ?
my engen's temp stays the same well in between 1/4 and 2/3 of the range on the temp gage
When cold, give the fan a good spin. It should spin up to 3 full revolutions.
When warm, give the fan a good spin. It should only spin 1/2 a revolution or less.
It should no feel very "tight" at any time. Make sure it's not locked up. I've heard of fans wearing out and being too "loose" but not get tighter....
When warm, give the fan a good spin. It should only spin 1/2 a revolution or less.
It should no feel very "tight" at any time. Make sure it's not locked up. I've heard of fans wearing out and being too "loose" but not get tighter....
A few years ago I had a bad fan clutch, so I did some exploratory surgery on it:
The fan clutch uses a silicon oil viscous fluid in two chambers inside.
A Bi-metal strip on the front bends outward as it warms and opens the valve from the reservoir side to the clutch side.
Centripetal force provides the pumping action to move the fluid.
When it sits for a few hours, it will spin the fan briefly on startup, then freewheel.
After 100,000 miles the bearing seals inside wear, and the bearing lube starts to weaken the clutch fluid's grip.
Both the S4 & S5 clutch freewheel when cold.
The s4 clutch increases it's bite gradually with temperature rise.
The s5 clutch is more on-off. (It just coasts until is gets warm)
Once they are warm, the fan speed goes up with engine speed to about 4000 RPM.
As the engine revs higher the fan stays at ~4K.
If your warmed up fan only revs up to < 2500 RPM, it's bad.
Since yours is pulling constantly, the bimetal strip on the front may be bent or missing; or the pin in the center may be removed by someone trying to get it to cool more.
The fan clutch uses a silicon oil viscous fluid in two chambers inside.
A Bi-metal strip on the front bends outward as it warms and opens the valve from the reservoir side to the clutch side.
Centripetal force provides the pumping action to move the fluid.
When it sits for a few hours, it will spin the fan briefly on startup, then freewheel.
After 100,000 miles the bearing seals inside wear, and the bearing lube starts to weaken the clutch fluid's grip.
Both the S4 & S5 clutch freewheel when cold.
The s4 clutch increases it's bite gradually with temperature rise.
The s5 clutch is more on-off. (It just coasts until is gets warm)
Once they are warm, the fan speed goes up with engine speed to about 4000 RPM.
As the engine revs higher the fan stays at ~4K.
If your warmed up fan only revs up to < 2500 RPM, it's bad.
Since yours is pulling constantly, the bimetal strip on the front may be bent or missing; or the pin in the center may be removed by someone trying to get it to cool more.
Last edited by SureShot; Nov 1, 2004 at 06:22 AM.
Well, my stock 10 blade S5 fan/clutch is permanantly locked. I mean it wont move 1" without moving the pulley. As a matter of fact, when belts are proper tightness.. I can actually TURN THE ENGINE OVER with the fan. Not start... but the e-shaft pulley moves along with everything else.
The fan spins all the way to 7K+
I'd rather have the fan lock up when the clutch goes bad than underspin
The fan spins all the way to 7K+
I'd rather have the fan lock up when the clutch goes bad than underspin
is the only way to get your fan working like new to get a new clutch? or can you rebuild it? i just freak out everytime i see the price for a new one on mazdatrix and i'm not sure if i would trust one that came from nappa or checker....
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