Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

On topic, people...

Goofy

On-topic: I think I'm going to replace my AAS section with power window switches (so both passenger and driver have easy access and to minimize wiring issues) when my passenger motor finally goes and I have to mess with the wiring. When I do, I plan on opting for double-soft-stop switches like in the Lumina.

TitaniumTT

I added power windows to my base SE. Bought the motors and a switch kit from www.spalusa.com went to a generic stereo/alarm shop and got an auto window up/down moduale and wired everything up. Mounted behing the shifter so like you said, everyone has easy access. Biggest fear is that the gauge wire is too small and the switches aren't rated high enough.... pic of the mounting... by the way, soft touch both up and down

Richter12x2

iTrader: (1)

That looks pretty sweet. I'd consider that if I didn't already have custom doorpanels for the manual regulator. I'm figuring I'll have to use two DPSTs per side and an arm on the inside of the doorpanel attached to the window regulator arm to actuate them, so I can push the regulator down to make the window go down and pull it up to make the window go up. I'm open to suggestions for something more elegant though.

My5ABaby

iTrader: (7)

I realize you used it correctly. I just meant you used the lame definition. Damn math geeks with their analytical minds...

Newho, back on subject before we get scolded by Aaron...

Why not just rebuild (if possible) or replace the stock ones? They already fit fine and are plug/play. Just my suggestion.

tarmac_terror

81457,

Even after resurrecting them a few times by gluing the fatigued plastic back together, the window switches finally got to a point of no return for me too. What I ended up doing was using a couple of CF plates and mounting some radio shack switches onto them. The biggest problem I had was with the wiring up of the overall system, because even when the original switches were in the off position, there was still a closed loop. So I actually had to use relays to recreate the same circuit, since the radio shack toggle switches worked such that there is an open circiut in the off position.

I've got an S5TII though, so I'm not sure if this is the same for your S4...

If your setup works atm, that's good. The only problem that I see with it is that the window motors draw relatively high current, so if you have it flowing straight through the switches (and they only have a low current rating), the switch contacts might not last so long...

If you want, I can post some pics of my setup.

Cheers,
- TT

81457

call me cheap but i dont really want to try to find new switches right now...maybe as a eff it i give up/last resort thing.
but more than anything i just like taking things apart and finding different ways to go about it and really just being difficult, haha. but if things just get too much for me i know when to give up so its cool...

yeah man if you wouldnt mind posting up some photos that'd be cool. i always hate when i find a thread and all these things are being talked about but its hard to get the visual, haha.

and also thanks for the tips so far doods

Richter12x2

iTrader: (1)

Since mine are hooked up with alligator clips for right now, when I get a chance I'll hook up an ammeter and see what kind of current it draws to be sure. I'm thinking it's probably not more than a couple of amps. Talking about being sure to use a big enough switch for the amps reminds me of when I bought my car and there was some kind of ugly as hell industrial 2 inch black push button switch that looked like it was straight off one of those 10 foot by 20 foot trash compactors wired as the starter solenoid. I have a feeling if my entire car was set on fire, that switch would have survived it, maybe with a little melting of the plastic.

Black91n/a

I've got an idea to get around the two switches on one circuit problem that arises from using universal switches. You know how the stock system has a switch to disable the passenger window? Why not just put a third switch on the drivers side which will select one swith as being active, disabling the other, or use a 3 position switch could be used to lock both switches out. That way the driver retains veto power over the passenger window. It'd probably take a little bit of re-wiring, but It's probably easier than re-wiring the windows to the center console. I think it's a good idea, what do you think?

I too have gotten to the point where I can't re-glue the plastic switch any more, rendering the drivers side passenger window switch useless, which makes this thread very interesting to me.

tinvestor

WOW speed reading KILLS. You need to read what the dog was talking about. He said 1 tap down two taps UP, that is up not all the way down.

On topic I like the idea of the stock switches, plenty o places to call to get them cheap.

Richter12x2

iTrader: (1)

Again, you're putting WAAAAAY too much thought into it. Wire both passenger side switches exactly like you would for one, and then put them in parallel. If you don't feed one switch into the other (which would be wiring them in series), then whenever EITHER switch is pushed, you complete the circuit and make the motor go up/down.

Just in case that was confusing - put a switch on the driver's side for the passenger window, put a switch on the passenger side for the passenger window. Wire both just as directed above. Passenger window motor is now in two different circuits. Pressing EITHER switch will close the circuit, supply voltage to the motor, and cause the window to operate. You don't have to press both at once. :P

tarmac_terror

Ok, I've attached some pics of my setup.

It seemed like a pretty time consuming project... but now that I think about it, I spent most of it cutting the CF (note to anyone who might want to use CF, it is damn hard to cut!!! Be prepared to buy some tungsten carbide cutting bits...).

Any material can be used for the top plate (Fibreglass, other plastics, aluminium). The switches and relays were from an australian radio shack equivalent. A few lengths of wire, some long bolts, and the rest of the materials I scaveneged from the existing system. It worked out that to emulate the standard circuit, two relays had to be used per switch. Hence the passenger's side was pretty easy, but there was a fair bit of stuffing around on the drivers side. On the driver's side on my S5 there is also a small circuit board, so the biggest issue was stuffing the system back in...

The reason why I made my own setup is that Mazda were going to charge me AUS$700 for both switch clusters.

If anyone is interested in more detail, I guess I could do a bit of a writeup.

- TT

Mombodogs

Complexity is the term used for people who can't understand simplicity. Make it easy so we don't have to clap to understand what I'm talking about. How about we just use the same principle as how power mirrors work. Left side, push lever left. Right side, push lever right.

Now incorporate the same motion as the 4 way "toggle" switch in adjusting the angle of the mirror. Everyone clear so far? Put a joy stick in place of your up down switches, and aren't we accomplishing the same thing?

Now, a simple " tap" is only limited by the tiny minds that think so small. 1-2-3-5-10 etc.

THANKS FOR ALL THE "INPUT", NOW, go beyond whats possible and make it happen.

PEACE THE DOG

Richter12x2

iTrader: (1)

Wouldn't it be 1-2-3-5-8?

Black91n/a

If you use switches rated for 15A then you don't need relays, it'll make it a lot easier, and probably cheaper too. You could also use fancier relays to only need one per window.

I've figured out 2 ways of doing it so that it's failsafe, one doesn't require any extra wiring, and works exactly like the stock system, except instead of using one switch per window, it uses two DPDT's (on-mom) per window, one for up, one for down. I've been unable to find a single switch (3P3T) to do the job, but two push buttons would do the trick. Then another push button (off-on) could do the passenger window switch disabling.

You can also do it using 3 DP3T's (mom-off-mom) and a DPDT (on-on). It'll require one extra wire to be run to the passenger side. Basically it'll be the usual three switches for the windows, and one to select which switch controls the passenger window. I've made a wiring diagram for this on AutoCAD, but it's at work. If anyone's interested I'll post wiring diagrams for each monday night.

I'll be doing the second version to my car in a couple weeks. I think it'll look better, and I couldn't find switches for the first one that I thought would look ok, but I found some nice 20A rated DP3T's, so I'll do that. I'll be mounting them to a sheet of hard black plastic. I'll try to post pictures and a writeup including wiring diagrams when I'm done.

81457

yeah i'm curious to see how you went about it...my idea worked just fine but may not be as good as yours.

so yeah, i have two switches now where my logicon once was. i cut out a thin piece of aluminum that i found in my garage and mounted it in that spot, and tightened the two switches in so its really driver/passenger friendly. the aluminum was pretty ugly and scratched up(probably been in my garage for 16 years) so i put an option sticker on it and it looks alright. if anyone is wondering how it looks i'll take a photo and post it up.

my big thing and the reason why it took me a lot longer than it should have was i only wanted two switches, and i wanted it somewhere where when i have a passenger they dont have to bother me to roll the window up or down.
in all it worked out pretty well, i'll just be pissed when and if it breaks, haha.

Black91n/a

Two switches in the middle is a good option, and is the way it's done in at least one car I know of (Miata) but it'll take a bunch of re-wiring and you'd end up with a hole in the door. Both things that I want to avoid.

It's possible to replicate the stock switching with two on-momentary SPDT's per stock switch (6 total) and one on-off switch (pass side off). If you look at the wiring diagram it should be easy enough to see, just split the functions of each switch into an individual up and down switch.

The other solution I've come up with (and will probably be using) is not quite as good functionally, and will require one wire to be run, but the available switches will look better IMHO.

Secondmessiah

i think the novelty would wear off when you come out of the mall and find your battery dead

Black91n/a

Here are the wiring diagrams I made. There's 4 of them, 2 different types of switch (SPDT and DPDT), with and without relays, to be used depending on the power rating of the switch you select. I cannot guarantee that they're 100% perfect, there may be some errors in there, so if you want to use them to wire up some switches, check it all first, I hold no responsability for any damages that may occur due to an error in the diagrams.

They are a bit hard to read, but everything's ties into everything else. I'll see what I can do about making it easier to read tomorrow.

I decided to go with DPDT rocker switches that can handle the current. I didn't want relays and they're about the only thing I found that would be acceptable for the current loads, looks and temperature range.

Here's what I will be using: http://www.action-electronics.com/gcswrot.htm#Marine

Richter12x2

iTrader: (1)

I like the disclaimer. It just makes you wonder if there's REALLY a precedent of someone getting sued over advice they gave on a discussion forum. Does that mean I can sue other forum people for pecker injuries sustained through trying to go F*** myself?

Richter12x2

iTrader: (1)

Geez, how long are you in a mall? :P My suspicion is that it only rolls the windows partway down, and only rolls them up when it enters "Panic". If your car is doing this like 15 times during the time you're in a mall, then you need to adjust your sensor sensitivity :P