My FC has like 203k on it and I doubt anyone ever changed the fuel filter, so I decided it's about time to replace it so I grabbed one from rx7.com. Question is...how do I get to it? Correct me if I missed it, but I looked around the FSM and they cover almost everything except replacing the fuel filter. Thanks.

 

its below the brake master cylinder.

 

Hey, you from Cal too?

It's on the driverside in the back corner. Kinda hidden at mid-height. It's on a bracket, and there are hose clamps holding the hoses onto it. Unbolt and remove hose clamps. Do the reverse to put the new one in. I'd get screw hose clamps to replace the old ones; they're better and easier to work with.

EDIT: Well now I know where the brake master cylinder is, heh.

 

ahh ok. What's the best way not to get sprayed? Can I just clamp off both hoses?

 

I just replaced mine a few weeks ago. Make sure you get new fuel line (not heater hose) and replace at least the line going up to the block. This will make life much easier since you're gonna have to cut off the old hoses. They will be practically glued into the filter.

It also helps to park a little uphill (easy in most driveways), since the gas will just keep flowing from the tank. I didn't have to clamp anything, but I did drain the filter and upper hose into an oil pan. Still, you will get gas all over.

Just work fast and start with the connection at the block...drain out what you can...replace to upper hose...swap the filters...and reattach.

 

ok, get the hoses replace, pinch the line before the filter, so you dont get it constantly running gasoline, park the car for a hour so the fuel pressure drops down, and no SPRAY! and then...... remove and replace!

 

Hey sry for abrs typing w/ a psp. Anyways, highly rec a haynes RX7 manuel. Good for these tasks.

To Stop fuel flo, run the engine, in R rear strut, under capet, The largest plug, Disconnect. ENgine should stall. wala! =]

 

Yes, the lines are a pain in the azz to get off but you don't need to cut them.
Squirt a little WD40 in the lines before you re-install them, they will slide right on.

 

Use the FSM. It's dangerous to work with anything with pressure in it, especially when theres flamable petrol inside(not the safe non-flamable kind ). Disconnect your fuel pump, it's in the hatch under the carpet, start the car, it should run for about 10 secs, that will use all of the fuel that is still in the line, then the engine will stall itself. Now just go about changing the fuel filter and done.

 

If the lines have 203K miles on them, he's probably going to want to swap them anyway. Rubber hoses that old get permanently formed to one shape, and rarely seal right when put back on.

WD40 works for putting them on, but taking them off it does little more than make the hose slip through your fingers.

 

Unplug the circuit opening relay under the steering column with the engine running. Easier to get to than the fuel plug in the rear near the left strut area. The car will sputter to a stop as it starves out of fuel.

Pinch the supply line with vise grips with the jaws protected with rubber hose or use a hose pincher, they're not expensive.

The filter is more accessible from the bottom (IMHO). Use a curved jaw plier to rotate the hose at the filter tubes to break the seal after removing the hose clamps. Have plenty of rags handy and wear eye protection. Oh, +1 on using new hose clamps - they have ones even better than the screw worm type ones. Don't remember what they're called, maybe I'll find a pic. somewhere.

 

http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/fue...CJ01/clamp.jpg

The one on the left is better.

 

When I did mine I just got a new filter and new fuel injection line (make sure they give you fuel injection line not carburated fuel lines, it should say "rated to 180psi" or 160psi, costs about $7 a foot)measured out the length of lines I needed and connected them to the new filter, when I disconnected the top line from the fuel rail (or rats nest if you still have it) I vice-gripped the top of the old line to stop any more fuel spillage. then did the same on the bottom. Like everyone else said, you're going to have a small amount of spill no matter what, but eith an oilpan or some rags and quick hands should make the work easy. I was fortunate to have a slightly slanted driveway and had the front end up on jackstands.

 

left strut i mean