How much would you pay for a 10k mile GTUs?
#26
Yes, tires are dry rotted,
Sorry... Let me give you some more info on just HOW this all started:
Car was brought to my buddys shop for a tune up, since he knows rx7s well.
Tune up was done (Fluids, filters, plugs, blah blah), Either case, the car now starts and drives. (IF it didn't before... I thought it did.)
I knew whos car it was, so when I inquired about it, I ended up buying it.
Sorry... Let me give you some more info on just HOW this all started:
Car was brought to my buddys shop for a tune up, since he knows rx7s well.
Tune up was done (Fluids, filters, plugs, blah blah), Either case, the car now starts and drives. (IF it didn't before... I thought it did.)
I knew whos car it was, so when I inquired about it, I ended up buying it.
#27
Now With 10th AE Fun!
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My 10th AE had sat for the better part of 10 years when I got it. It was last registered in '96. Just take your time and replace lots of stuff. We want pics also. I have put over 30K on it since I got it though, and my engine wouldn't spin when I got my hands on it. Do it right and you will have another 100K on yours.
#28
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my 87 sat for 12 years. in the driveway, so the paint is toast, dash and ALL of the plastic is toast.
the fuel system is fine, oil system is fine, car runs great.
cooling system is full of crud though, even after flushing it out many times over the course of the year ive had it.
suspension is fine (even the AAS) the NEW tires were all bad, the dry rotted ones weren't round (the smog guy looked like a bobble head)
brake master was bad too.
but boy the number on the odometer is low....
as an addendum @72k miles, the dash, drivers door, and a bunch of other stuff had already been apart to fix something, so its not like low miles = original never been played with either
the fuel system is fine, oil system is fine, car runs great.
cooling system is full of crud though, even after flushing it out many times over the course of the year ive had it.
suspension is fine (even the AAS) the NEW tires were all bad, the dry rotted ones weren't round (the smog guy looked like a bobble head)
brake master was bad too.
but boy the number on the odometer is low....
as an addendum @72k miles, the dash, drivers door, and a bunch of other stuff had already been apart to fix something, so its not like low miles = original never been played with either
#29
The Big Ugly!
[QUOTE=Evil Aviator;9954803]Some of you guys need to realize that when negotiating the price of a car, you take into account the labor cost of the repairs as well as the parts and materials. Remember, this is a "what's it worth thread", not a "what's the cheapie fix" thread.
By far not implying do a cheap fix in any way, But an 8k paint job is overkill. I have a few freinds who work at body shops & I aked them how much to repaint my car. All in all $3200 for paint & labor if they didn't know me, now this is with no body work involved. I doubt he has 5k in body work & i have spoke to 5 different paint & body men BTW in my area. If he wanted to be cheap he could use Macco, I wouldn't suggest it tho. before I did my widebody I had spoke with a few shops on doing the kit & painting just to get an idea of price & I was only quoted at $6500. That was mounting the kit, molding the kit, repairing the crack in the hood scoop & painting it cobalt blue. The rest of you list was pretty accurate, but I'm sure somethings may still be in good shape depending on how it was stored.
By far not implying do a cheap fix in any way, But an 8k paint job is overkill. I have a few freinds who work at body shops & I aked them how much to repaint my car. All in all $3200 for paint & labor if they didn't know me, now this is with no body work involved. I doubt he has 5k in body work & i have spoke to 5 different paint & body men BTW in my area. If he wanted to be cheap he could use Macco, I wouldn't suggest it tho. before I did my widebody I had spoke with a few shops on doing the kit & painting just to get an idea of price & I was only quoted at $6500. That was mounting the kit, molding the kit, repairing the crack in the hood scoop & painting it cobalt blue. The rest of you list was pretty accurate, but I'm sure somethings may still be in good shape depending on how it was stored.
#30
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Please post the contact information for this shop. I have 1, maybe 2 RX-7s that I need painted next year. It would be well worth transporting my cars to your area to save that much money. I still don't see how they can afford to do a full paint job at that price, but I would like to talk to them to see what level of miscommunication you had with them.
#31
The Big Ugly!
Please post the contact information for this shop. I have 1, maybe 2 RX-7s that I need painted next year. It would be well worth transporting my cars to your area to save that much money. I still don't see how they can afford to do a full paint job at that price, but I would like to talk to them to see what level of miscommunication you had with them.
Last edited by rotordad; 04-25-10 at 11:08 PM.
#32
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I tell you what, I will get a few numbers in a PM ok. BTW a gallon of paint will run you from $60 to $100 for a good paint, A good clear will run close to $90 a gallon & a nice primer system between $130 to $220. Remember a small to mid size car car be done with 3 gallons of paint, so lets break it down. $400 for the paint will definately get some good paint & less if you go with a cheaper paint. $300 for the clear & we will say an even $300 for the primer. BTW $300 is for a 2 stage primer which is not needed. That's 1k on the upper end of the scale without getting crazy with the amount coats, staying with 3 to 4 coats & no candy colors. You could add a gallon or two to get more coats for a deeper look, but that's still under $1500. The acutal labor of spraying shouldn't be more than 2k unless you have some custom painter from a magazine doing it.
#35
Don't hate my V8
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if the paint is "faded" make sure its not just the clear coat has fogged over alittle, try buffing it back out again b4 you decied it needs a total repaint.
my 2c as a body man.
my 2c as a body man.
#39
Sounds like a $500 parts car to me.
Were you to try and fix it, you are looking at:
about $8,000 for paint and body work
about $2,500 for an engine rebuild
about $2,000 for new suspension, mounts, and bushings
about $3,000 for new tires, brakes, belts, hoses, fuel lines, filters, weather seals, etc.
Were you to try and fix it, you are looking at:
about $8,000 for paint and body work
about $2,500 for an engine rebuild
about $2,000 for new suspension, mounts, and bushings
about $3,000 for new tires, brakes, belts, hoses, fuel lines, filters, weather seals, etc.
So unless he's going with a show paint job with multi (more than 3) layers of base coat and clear coat he wont be seeing 8k for body work.
I would have paid ~4k depending on the interior.
Last edited by -Crash-; 04-26-10 at 03:09 PM.
#42
Rammer Jammer
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Why is everyone bashing aviator for a paint estimate?
You do realize that labor rates are different depending on the market, right?
His quote is paint and body work which could make the number slide by thousands depending on what kind of body work they do and what the market looks like when you have the work done.
I can guarantee you if they are pulling out dents and going over the whole car removing seals, anything less than 3k, just for the body work, means they are using body filler.
For a quality body man to run over the car and make it look perfect from every angle, you will be throwing at least 6k for paint and body, maybe more.
You do realize that labor rates are different depending on the market, right?
His quote is paint and body work which could make the number slide by thousands depending on what kind of body work they do and what the market looks like when you have the work done.
I can guarantee you if they are pulling out dents and going over the whole car removing seals, anything less than 3k, just for the body work, means they are using body filler.
For a quality body man to run over the car and make it look perfect from every angle, you will be throwing at least 6k for paint and body, maybe more.
#44
Rammer Jammer
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We all get it.
You drift.
You do your own body work.
You know just about damn everything about sevens.
Maybe if you start talking like an adult, instead of a 18 year old e-thug, maybe someone outside of the drift forum will take you seriously.
Really, grow up.
#45
The Big Ugly!
Why is everyone bashing aviator for a paint estimate?
You do realize that labor rates are different depending on the market, right?
His quote is paint and body work which could make the number slide by thousands depending on what kind of body work they do and what the market looks like when you have the work done.
I can guarantee you if they are pulling out dents and going over the whole car removing seals, anything less than 3k, just for the body work, means they are using body filler.
For a quality body man to run over the car and make it look perfect from every angle, you will be throwing at least 6k for paint and body, maybe more.
You do realize that labor rates are different depending on the market, right?
His quote is paint and body work which could make the number slide by thousands depending on what kind of body work they do and what the market looks like when you have the work done.
I can guarantee you if they are pulling out dents and going over the whole car removing seals, anything less than 3k, just for the body work, means they are using body filler.
For a quality body man to run over the car and make it look perfect from every angle, you will be throwing at least 6k for paint and body, maybe more.
Last edited by rotordad; 04-27-10 at 01:22 PM.
#46
My job is to blow **** up
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sorry, i'm not paying 3k for paint and body work. let alone 8k! I'm doing a motor swap in a honda for my paint guy in exchange for "basic" paint and body work i'll have a thread of before and after when i am done. it will be re-jammed and the engine bay is already repainted.
#47
Rammer Jammer
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First off Nobody was bashing Evil, Second he is a grown man & doesn't need your defense, Third I have already PM'ed Evil the phone numbers of some of the better local body shops in my area & have spoken to a few of my friends who do body & paint as a career, all in which were 3 to 4k. Now if you read the the OP's post from the begining there was minimal body work & I'm sure he is not looking to have more than 3 coats of base color & the 2 coats of clear recommended. With that said take a minute & relax. BTW Scrapp good luck with the car, hopefully things come to together smoothly & sorry for taking away from your thread.
I'm asking a question.
I read the post and it doesn't change what I said.
I'm glad you took the time to PM phone numbers, a little much to win an argument in my opinion, but to each his own.
The point that was trying to be made was that when you are buying a car you assume the worst before you make an offer.
I'm sure there are paint jobs that are less than 8k but you don't want to give a seller any of that benefit unless you like wasting money.
#48
The Big Ugly!
I wasn't trying to win any agrument by PM'ing the info to Evil. He asked so I did what I could. I respect Evil & his input, I feel no need to prove myself to anyone on a internet forum. It's pointless, my reason for posting was to give the OP a better idea of what to expect. Now at least I did a little research before I posted & didn't just talk on something I knew nothing about right! BTW I'm more concerned on how the car is running for the OP than how it looks.
#49
No I dont mind, Threads are threads, Yall reassured me quite a few posts back. I prolly paid a fair price, I plan to keep this car for years...and years...years..... My wish will come true and I will be passing this car down to a son or brother..... Or it follows the red curse we have at the shop and gets totaled.... I hope the first, cause I really dont want an FD anymore, I love this thing.