How'd you manage that?

 

18 wheeler + uphill on ramp + untuned bridgeported engine with 60-1 turbo = disaster.... Happened under 4k with 350 miles on the engine. Back on the stands it goes.

 

there were three different types of bearings. the ? to about 1980 cars use a double row ball bearing with a metal race, which seems to do fine. the 81-87.5 cars use the same double row ball with a PLASTIC race, and these are junk, they wear really fast. the 87.5+ cars (they still use this trans in the miata) use a roller bearing. the roller bearing is really reliable.

the roller bearing is OEM only, and the aftermarket bearing kits come with the plastic double row ball.

the next bearing that seems to go is the input shaft bearing, and there is a big and a small, but all the Fc's have the big one.

the center bearing causes a whining noise in every gear except 4th, the input shaft is a noise with engine rpm.

its mostly driver technique

 

detonation.

 

Too many variables. Driving style is the number one. But you also need to consider things like clutch. Sprung or unsprung? Big difference in how much shock load is transferred to and from the drivetrain. Puck style with heavy pressure plate? Quality organic?

Same with drivetrain mounts. Lazy and silly solid aluminum pucks? Stupidly welded transmission mount? Or stock rubber? Or something better like poly bushings?

Tire size and compound? Wheel width?

Road surface? Uphill or downhill?

And in what gear did it break?

It all comes into play.

 

I am putting non-mazda diff in my n/a rear end and was wondering if I should upgrade my half shafts to turbo ones? I haven't found any info on n/a half shaft strength, should I be worried about them failing at about 400hp?

 

YES. Even T2 half shafts could break apart at 400 under certain conditions(fat sticky tires+ clutch dump) although not nearly as likely..

Drive shaft shop sells upgraded half shafts good for 800hp I believe

 

Thanks, good to know