I have recently completed the build of my 87 Turbo II and during the tuning runs, have noticed it tends to get a little warm. I have a Fluidyne radiator and PermaCool fan. After about 4 miles of driving, the ECT readout on the haltech shows 205-215 degrees F. My aftermarket coolant temp gauge shows 250+ degrees F. If I let the car idle, it cools back down to 185-190* F.
I have a 3 row FMIC, but do have my fan shroud in place. I have run the car with both the e fan and the stock clutch fan with the same results. I have purchased the underbody air ducts and am in the process of making the plate to cover where the overflow bottle and hood latch is.
My question is would this overheating have anything to do with my FMIC? I know they cause a raise in temperature, but I think that this is a bit extreme. I purchased the car in NC and it ran fine all thw way home, now after 2 years its being stupid. I added a dual belt alt pulley and another belt today, thinking that maybe the one belt was slipping, and still nothing different. I removed the t-stat, to see if maybe it was sticking closed, and nothing different. I dont want to be so quick as to say the waterpump is bad because the car DOES cool at idle. Coolant mix is 65/35 water to antifreeze, air temps today are about 70 degrees.
Any ideas?

 

If you're sure it's not going to freeze, run 100% water with a bottle of water wetter, that made a difference for me when I swapped over to a front mount. However I'm also in SoCal, so I dont have to worry about freezing at night :P.

-David Guy

 

Well, I dont think that the coolant mixture has that much to do with it. As I said before, the car didnt overheat when i got it, and there are others in this area with FMICs running a mix similar to mine and they dont over heat. I cant imagine that the IC is blocking that much air, can it?

 

Believe me, you will notice a big difference running just water and water wetter. However, it could also be that your radiator just has a lot of scale buildup.

-David Guy

 

Try flushing?

I don't suggest running straight water in your cooling system as coolant actually has anti corrodant.

 

I agree Black Rocket. My car has only had antifreeze/water in it for maybe a month. Other than that the radiator was a brand new untouched Fluidyne.
It just makes no sense.....
I cant even tune my stupid haltech cause i cant drive the car! Arrgghh

 

If you run only bottled distilled water and water wetter you will not have an issue with corroding as long as you replace it once a year or so.

-David Guy

 

you hope.

 

That water wetter stuff is designed to make water "slicker" and flow better, right? Can you use it in conjunction with an antifreeze and water mix?

 

update - i installed the proper no pressure cap on the thermostat housing, with a 16lb cap on the rad. I can actually see the thermostat working correctly now. Aparently the pressurised cap above the thermostat was causing it to not open.
The car runs a bit cooler, but still got to 210 at the waterpump located ECT on my 4 mile test drive course.
There was an improvment but not much. The temp gauge still pegs at 250* (located in the botem left of the rad)
The car runs okay other than the heat. 75* intake temps tonight on the drive, air fuels rich (until i can actualy drive it and get a boost controller and 5lb wg spring)
Hopefully my underpan air duct comes in soon, I should have the top one tomorrow. Maybe that will make a difference as well??

 

Hell yes it will. The air going to the intercooler takes away from the air going to radiator. You say your running the dual-belt pulleys...Is the waterpump underdriven? This can cause overheating....

 

Its not underdriven at all. Stock pulleys, minus the dual belt alt. pulley.
I am going to try and add a scoop to the plastic air dam once i get it here and create a ram air system for the radiator. Other than that, I am almost lost, and overheating should be a fairly simple problem to correct, heh.

 

Frankly, the ram air is a waste of time. Make sure the fan shroud fits flush on the radiator. On my Koyo there were several gaps which I filled with AC weather stripping. Do you still have the AC? I know of two people who had overheating problems running front mounts and AC. Simple solution, get rid of the AC...no AC condenser=more air for the radiator. Also, get some QUALITY gauges. There's no way in hell you reached 250 degree farenheit. The car's operating temperature is 207 degrees, anything over 215-220F and your lookin' at a rebuild.

-Hakan

 

I dont have AC any longer. Only thing between the FMIC and rad is the oil cooler. I would like to get some nice gauges, but there is no money in the budget for that yet. There are some gaps in the fan shroud ATM, which I will fill with weather stripping as you did. Also planning on getting another stock fan shroud, as this one is sorta cut up for fittment of my efan.

 

Distilled water is still H2O

My dad had people work on his car and one day I looked at his rad it's so corroded and I asked him "didn't you put coolant in it?" and his response was I live in So. Cal so I don't have to (i.e., according to repair shop or lube shop). Where do they get that idea?!

My suggestion is to "baby" your motor and upkeep on coolant (seasonal flush).

 

50/50 coolant water mix is best for warm weather. Maybe slightly less coolant, but you always need SOME in there, unless you want your engine to rust from the inside out!

 

Have you drove on the highway yet?? Get on the highway for about 2 miles, if the temp goes up while driving, then goes down when you exit its your radiator.

 

Could it be your tuning the haltech a bit too lean?

 

the car runs fine at idle, but heats up at speed. there is a large FMIC in the way of the rad, and I am waiting on my underbelly pan to come in. Haltech is still rich, cause I am still tuning. never sees anything leaner than about 13.5 in vacuum.

kleach18 - I cannot keep the car cool enough to drive on the highway. The radiator is responisble for keeping the coolant cool at speeds and the fan does the work in town. I think i would not have a problem at all if it werent for my IC. I am going to try making some air ducts under it, kinda like a scoop, to direct air flow at the radiator. May also be getting a junk NA hood to try and fiberglass in a rally car style vent

 

Lets see a pic of the front of your install. I'm sure others would have spoken up if FMIC was a cooling issue.

And yea, the ducting is important. Make sure the air can only exit by going thru the radiator, otherwise, it will go around it.

Scott

 

Scott - I will snap one after work tonight