Just doing a little poll to see if I should get an oil pressure regulator with my setup. If anyone has some input please let me know. I'll put my sig up so you guys can tell me if I need one or not! Thanks again guys!

 

anyone

 

i have no idea

 

so I guess no one is??? I think this would be a great safety mod to do but man the work involved in changing it out is crazy!

 

obviously it's not that big of a deal if no one has responded yet.

 

I have no idea.

 

I have an aftermarket pressure regulator in my set-up.

The regulator is just one part of a high performance oiling set-up. Just using a higher pressure will shorten the oil pump life considerably as the RB catalogue points out.

If you are rebuilding your engine and considering a high pressure regulator do a search on "oil system mods" on the forums. No Pistons is easier to find good tech info on as opposed to wading through the crap here and they even have an engine building subforum.

try search terms like-

Oil pump passage porting

Loop line

e-shaft mods

deep groove bearing

windowed bearing

oil cooler outlet location

Remember FLOW is just as important as pressure as our motors are cooled by the oil.

 

Thanks for the info but on the fc3spro.com website it says that at stave IV or something like that you should get an upgraded oil pressure regulator???

 

yes racingbeat sells one or u can use the fd one

 

no they specify not to use the fd one because the 13bt is not meant to use it (not built for it)

 

I just bough 3 of the those fd regs to try out in a few motors of mine. They are also getting the webber 220 jets.

 

I recommend them for anyone who can afford it.
The Racing Beat 80-85psi "street" OPR is a good upgrade.
I usually replace them on rebuilds for customers.

I don't recommend the 100psi+ OPR's, as they are too high for street FC3S 13B's.
This kinda high oil pressures tend to cause the motors to smoke.
The high oil pressures tend to push past seals and end up burning in the combustion chambers.
This also goes for stock FD OPR's that run at around 105psi.

If you have a mildly modded FC, these things are really unnecessary.
This is why I have them kinda high on my FM2W page.
I would recommend them when you start to push over 300hp.
In general, I do not see problems with oil lubrication on engines that have been properly maintained.

There is a good number of people who will push major oil system mods.
Most of these guys have dealt with Pineapple Racing.
Now, *I* think most of it is overkill.
The proof is in the condition of the internal bearings...


-Ted

 

The proof is in the condition of the internal bearings...

Besides keeping the oil cool enough to maintain its viscocity could lower oil temps from more total oil system flow have benificial effects?

 

thanks RETed for chiming in that is exactly what I wanted to know! So I guess I'm going to have to take my car to the dyno to see what it's pushing but with my mods I should be knocking on the 300rwhp door. What do you think?

 

Skyrocketing oil temps are always BAD.
Right now the only two cars I've worked on that required "bigger capacity" oil cooling is our 20B FC track car and hIGGI's 13BT GT3540.
Both cars were running over 210F or 100C consistently, and that's a bit too high.
Luckily, both are using dual stock FC oil coolers to bring down the oil temps, and now they both run under 200F or 90C.

I dunno how else to increase oil capacity?
Custom oil pan?


-Ted

 

I'm using an 85psi OPR, simple upgrade and good piece of mind for lots of different power levels.

 

I really don't think stating a power level is accurate, the oiling needs for a 250 hp bp n/a that revs out at 9500 are going to be greater than a 250 hp turbo motor that only gets revved to 6500.. Oiling needs change with RPM mostly, as any machinist on here will tell you...
The 13bt will handle added oil pressure without smoking, currently I am running in the 100 psi range with no smoking whatsoever, on a turbo car though i would suggest running a restrictor in the oil line to the turbo, if its gonna smoke, its gonna be the turbo seals, not the engine seals... Once you add a high pressure regulator, you have to shim the from the cover regualtor as well, its rated by the factory at 154 psi IIRC, in truth I know it actually pops at about 140 psi without shimming from tapping a guage precooler, the pressure drop across the oil cooler is 50-60 psi, if you just add a hp oil reg without shimming the relief, you will end up just popping the relief in the front cover, before reaching max oil pressure of the regulator...
I am currently using an externally adjustable regulator so I can set my oil pressure without dropping the pan, I have 75 psi at idle and full oil pressure towards 1800-2000 which is 100 psi currently..max

 

wow thanks for the info. I'm taking it though that the average guy with a modded 7 doesn't have an upgraded oil pressure regulator.

 

FWIW, you don't have to buy an aftermarket regulator to increase your oil pressure.

If you pull off your stock regulator, you can drill out the retaining pin. Then pull out the plunger and insert 1 or two M6 washers. One washer is good for about 85PSI, 2 makes it around 100 PSI. Put the piston back in then press in a split pin to retain. Now weld up the little hole.

 

very cool! If I ever get around to taking my oil pan off i will do that for more fuel. Thanks for the tip