Hardly a fix-but I used a simple switch/relay combo on the fuel injector circuit.

Never had an issue again.

 

Good god I hope you drained ALL the water out of the tank before going further. If not, I have a $50 bill for whats left of the car.

 

im gonna bring my car to get a compression test soon. i will do whatever it takes to fix my flooding issue.

what kind of numbers are considered "good compression" and whats considered "bad"?

 

Im getting my injectors cleaned. Should be back by Friday. I hope this fixes my flooding issue.

 

i that when the car is heated up and driven and you shut your car of theres so much pressure in the fuel line that it leaks ...thats one theory but i had some cleaned and they still leaked i dont know if its the high flow pump or the ecu ...but the starter gets real hot to so it cranks the engine over slowly producing flooding...we just need a gadget of some kind witch would fix it permantly

 

If it's not an EFI system problem, then why did so many RX-7's flood when basically brand new, leading to a stock feature on S5's where a fully depressed pedal caused fuel cut during start-up?

 

alexdimen Got a point there.

 

I didn't bother to scroll through all of this, but I just wanted to share what I used to have to do when I had the stock ECU.
Very simple really:
Unplug the crank angle sensor connector (located at the CAS of course), hold the throttle wide open, and crank for a while. Plug in back in and then try starting it again. Unplugging it stops the injectors from spraying, and keeps the spark plugs from firing. Very simple method I found out 2 years ago.
Brian

 

Then they weren't cleaned properly (or they were damaged). Injectors in good condition can hold back a lot more pressure than they see in normal operation. They leak if the injectors are dirty and don't seal properly.

This doesn't make a lot of sense. The starter will only get hot if you crank the engine for too long, and that has nothing to do with the pump or ECU. If you have to crank for so long that the starter slows and then it floods, something is wrong with your car and it needs to be fixed.

There is NO SUCH THING. The only proper fix is rebuilding a low-compression engine and/or cleaning or replacing leaking injectors. You can slap on all the anti-flooding band-aids you want but a low-compression engine is only going to keep wearing further until it blows and you're forced to rebuild it. As mentioned earlier, it's a lot cheaper to rebuild a running low-compression engine than a blown one, so band-aids will only end up costing you in the long run.

Lot's of cars have exactly the same feature. Petrol engines can flood. Fact of life.

You've taken my comment out of context though. Dennis's comment implied the ECU was to blame for all flooding problems. In reality it's the least likely cause.

Why not just pull out the EGI fuse like everyone else? Same effect and easier.

 

There's a verison of the RTEK2.1 that allows the operator to adjust the amount of fuel delivered during START. That goes along with their standard series four RTEK feature that lets you hold the pedal to the floor to stop fuel injection during a flood condition (simialr to the series five).

Temp removal of the START signal on pin 3B of the series four ECU results in less fuel being delivered during START, especially HOT starting. Key word: TEMP

A non operating BAC can result in difficult starts. The BAC normally goes wide open when teh key is put to Start, adding more air. A non operating BAC goes *fill in the blank*

Bandaids are US.

Leaking injector? Which one? Can't tell. Mazdatrix makes a device for relieving the pressure in the fuel lines once the key is to off. See the Mazdatrix site. Or the same thing could be done by removing the fuel pump and drilling a Very small hole in the pressure tube coming off the pump to feed the engine. This can be undone later by simply putting a common clamp on that drilled area of the tube to seal it off again.

Fuel cut switches to the Circuit Opening Relay are a favorite but I'm against them my self along with pull EGI fuses to stop the pump. Hate spinning an engine full of fuel around and around and around. This is the way to wash our internal engine parts including the rotor o'rings. Wheeee!

Just having fun ranting. Pay no attention.

Or make a simple voltage switch to interrupt the START signal to the ECU once the operating temps get over say.......120* or so. Then the AFM will be used for fuel delivery during START instead of a map inside the ECU (too rich a map for worn engines that are hot). That cuts the ms the injector is open from say 16ms to 4ms.

I'm just repeating myself. Off to Drudge.

 

well I was wrong about the injectors they must be still dirty ....so nzconvertable do you recommend buying knew ones ...or buy the rtec 2.1 like hailers said

 

True, but the point I was trying to make is that flooding appears to be possible even on a perfectly running and fully stock car.

 

do the fbs and fds flood like the turbo fcs

 

I've had a flooding problem for years. At first I had a small "chip" installed which completely fixed the problem. I have yet to figure out what it is or how the hell it works. It isn't working right now as it is sitting on my desk.

When I had my engine rebuilt, it still flooded, and i still had to use the switch.

Right now i have a switch that cuts the circut to the "starter wire" on the ECU when the engine is warm, starts like a champ, however, its will not start worth a crap when cold, so I have to switch back. Im waiting to see how the rtek 2.1 works to replace this.

I have also noticed that the starter seems to be a little slow when i am trying to start it when hot. I wonder why that is.

 

has anyone have any info on the rtec 2.1 is it out yet and what does it do

 

http://www.pocketlogger.com/index.php?pid=rtek7 download the Operating Instructions, PDF file for the Series Four Turbo and go to page 19 and there is a description there.

 

I was just looking at that very thing. Might take a few times to get it adjusted right but, that should fix the damn thing once and for all!

 

i didnt feel like reading all the responses so i dont know if this was said, but i believe my problem may have been leaky injectors. i would pull out the spark plugs, clean them off, disconnect fuel pump, crank over to push out excess fuel, put the spark plugs back in, give it a crank w/o the fp hooked up and just when its about to start reconnect the fp. works every time

 

With a series five all you should have had to do was hold the gas pedal to the floor and crank the engine over. The ECU sees a high TPS reading and the Start signal coming from holding the key to Start, and stops the fuel injectors from injecting fuel when you do that. Spinning the engine over during that setup should clear the engine of fuel and SPARK is still there to help ignite the remaining fuel in the chambers. Shoulda worked.

 

hailers do you have the rtec 2.1 or know anyone whos used it is it like the 2.0 did it work for the s4 flooding

 

2.1 isn't out yet. It's supposed to be out in the fourth quarter.

Here's something you could try. Get your ECU small plug where you have access to it. Go drive the car til it gets hot. I'm talking up to temperature, not somewhere inbetween. Then go to that small plug and extract the pin 3B, a black/blue wire on the far right bottom of that small plug. Put some tape on it to insulate it from shorting when you go to Start again. By the way, it only sees voltage when the key is HELD to start.

Now go beat on that car for a few hours and depending on how big a problem your having, stop on the top of a hill so you can roll start it (that's an extreme example but sort of a *what if* thing).

After driving and finding a slope to stop on, stop the engine and then restart it and do that after several driving sessions. See if that improves your starts or not. Maybe it will help, maybe not. Should help because NOW the car will use the AFM for fuel amount and the amount should be quite a bit less than if the ECU used the internal Start map.

Like they say, leaking injectors and other things can cause hard starting.

P.S............this wire 3B must be reconnected at the end of the day or you MIGHT have problems starting in the morning when the engine is cold. On the other hand, if this wire extraction helps your diffucult starts, then leave the wire out of the plug and see what happens in the morning. If it starts up fairly good, then leave the wire out of 3B. If the morning start is difficult, reinstall the wire and it should start up as normal as it was starting prior to your experiment.

The RTEK section of this site has one of the first threads addressing when the 2.1 is to be released. But try the extraction of 3B first.

Right now is a good time to extract the wire 3B. Extraction is fairly easy. Look at the front of the plug where it mates with the ECU. Look inside 3B's hole and you'll see a samll plastic tab that you need to raise up with a small jewlers screwdriver or equivalant, and pull on the black/blue wire at the same time. Should come out with little pull being required. Go get'em.

 

hailers you have so much knowledge on this matter i hope this helps and i hope it helps others know can i put a toggle switch cross the line to turn it on and off

 

Yes, IF it works for you, you could use a switch. Like I say, give it a try before commiting yourself. It takes only a few minutes to remove a wire from the ECU plug .

At one point, when I was having a Hot start problem, I thought about a switch. But I was really trying to get away from any human action. I'd had a fuel cut switch before and decided switches R not Mee.

So I bought a kit from a place in Aus. This kit was a simple voltage switch. It used the voltage from the water thermo sensor to trigger a relay in the kit. If the water temp was over 120 degrees, the 3B circuit was open. If lower than 120 degrees the circuit was closed and like a normal RX car.

For several reasons my Hot start problems went away (I've never has a fuel injector cleaned in my life) and I don't use that switch kit any more. But it worked in the heat of Tx summers for a year and a bit.

 

i hear rx8 have flooding issues to are there ecu,s plagued with the same problem,do you have any more info on that switch from aus and i could get one

 

Its interesting about the flood kill feature on the s5. My S5 turbo, likes to flood occasionally, and I have to use the WOT on warmup and then feather the gas a little. So technichally that one is busted too. and if the RX-8s have similar problems, I wonder if its just an EFI problem.