If the engine has low compression it's time to rebuild it before it looses a seal and trashes a housing/rotor.

 

I can start my car for 2 seconds and turn it off and leave there for 2 weeks and it'll always start.

My baby rules.

 

if your 7 is an s4 can you still put the hose from the fpr to the uim do you have pics it sounds intresting hailers had some good ideas to this will help knew rx7 owners so they dont go crazy

 

Yes, there is a reason behind disconnecting 3B WHEN starting HOT.

First you HAVE to understand the START process. Read the online and free Training Manual for Fuel and EMISSIONS.

The ECU does NOT look at the afm for fuel during STARTING. It uses an internal map that looks at rpm under 500rpm..........a START signal on 3B.........and the voltage output from the Water Thermo Sensor.

The higher the voltage input from the Water thermo sensor, the LESS fuel is injected during START. And of course the lower the voltage output results in MORE FUEL being injected during START.

But while the above is interesting to know, it also gives you a CLUE and and IDEA. Ask "what happens if the signal to 3B is not there during START?" The answer is that the AFM is then used for fuel during STARTING.

So if you take a digital meter set on DUTY CYCLE, and put it to one of the primary fuel injectors, you can see how long the injector is open during START when the 3B is connected to the ECU and what the injector duty cycle is with the 3B disconnected. I've done that. The difference is LARGE.

With the 3B connected to the ECU the injector might be open 16ms during start when hot. If you disconenct 3B from the ECU (remember now the afm is used for fuel), the injector will be open something like 4ms. That is a huge difference during START IF INDEED YOU STARTING PROBLEM IS FUEL RELATED/LOW COMPRESSION RELATED.

Those MS numbers are from memory. I'm not going to repeat it. Wrote about it in the past somewhere.

Do a search using HAILERS and CHART and you'll find the CHART from the manual that shows how fuel is delivered during START.

There are other ways to BANDAID a TOO MUCH FUEL problem. Mazdatrix makes a device that bleeds the fuel pressure from the fuel rails after the engine is turned to OFF. You KNOW fuel pressure remains in the rail for up to thirty minutes after the engine is shut off. IF the injectors are leaking that presssure will flood the engine thru the leaking injector.

So an alternate way of bleeding this pressure off is...........remove the fuel pump. Find the pressure line that feeds the engine on that pump. Drill an extremely small hole in that line, Say 1/32nd inch. That will bleed the pressure off the fuel rails when the engine is OFF. It will NOT screw up your fuel pressure. I've used a gauge on the lines and it just does not happen. If the hole is messed up, this hole can be repaired by simply installing a common clamp over the hole. Small clamp.

By the way, there's NO way to tell which injector is the leaker. Any of the four will do the flooding if it is leaking.

But leaking injectors are NOT the main reason these cars flood when hot. Low compression is number one. Rebuild is only around 1-2 grand with good parts.

Or you can buy a RTEK2.1 that has a feature where you can alter the amount of fuel used during delivery by a simple flick of the pen. Find Digital Tuning and read the 2.1 manual.

And while here I'll throw in my predjudice against the deflooding procedures such as pulling EGI fuses and cutoff switches. It irks me to all hell thinking about a flooded engine spinning around and around with no lubrication around the seals and o'rings. Sucks. Plain flat dumb.

 

The FSM has an arrow pointing away from the ECU in the wiring diagram so it looked like a output, but then the pin list says its an input. Strange, thanks for clearing that up.

Yes you can, just hook it to the manifold where the FPR solenoid gets its vacuum. This worked on my engine, but this doesn't go to say that my ECU was working the way it should. I don't know why the ECU didn't make the solenoid allow vacuum to the FPR while coasting or idling. Hot starts, I think I read in the FSM that there shouldn't be vacuum at the FPR for 10 seconds or somthing like that, I would have to read it again to confirm.

Saving up $400 takes all year. Well, it used to. Now it may not take me that long but a lot of us don't have 1-2 grand to spend

 

hailers thats such good info could i make a switch and turn of the 3b circuit when hot starting which plug on the ecu is the small plug ,may be you have a pic or write up how to do this for newbies

 

umm...my motor is only 10,000 miles old and it STILL FLOODS. i am getting my fuel injectors cleaned though...

 

Mine was flooding. Never did anything with the injectors. Problem was fixed after I rebuild the motor. So apparently it was not the injectors after all.

Compression Loss was the culprit.

 

did you use brand knew housings or old ones

 

Everyone seems to go with that switch to the fuel pump. Can someone please exlpain to me how they did it? I am very interested and am wanting to do the same... And let me know what materials were needed. PLEASE

 

idk. i didnt rebuild it. i think the idiot wen with old housings. he said it cost him 2000 or 3000 dollars. cant remember. i just bought it like that back in april

 

I wish hailers could build some kind of module ...he understands the problem

 

mine engine floods after a new rebuild, about 1300 miles. i think the parts used were old. however im probably gonna replace all my injectors and hope it fixes the problem

 

just hold the pedal down works like a charm(s5 only)

 

Well me being a new 'rotor head,' I read somewhere or someone told me that there was a rich/lean screw. Is that true?

 

is there a spark plug that can with stand flooding,,,i wonder if a old starter contributes to the slow cranking speed...but i think im with hailer all these band aids but the problem is at the ecu ...but a lot of 7 owners put bigger fuel pump i,e walboro bosch etc and wire them with a relay i wonder if that could be part of the hotstart problem,,,,when you are drinving and shut the car off the pump is so strong it gushes fuel in the chambers ,,,just a theory

 

Is there a lean/rich screw I can adjust?

 

On series 4 engines, yes. Its by the AFM. It usually has glue of some sort covering the screw

 

Does it really work? I have 650's injectors and would like to turn it down. I am constantly running rich. Could this also help out flooding issues?
And what is a AFM?

 

Air Flow Meter.....when my s4 TII had low compression it always flooded. like aaron cake said it could be time for a rebuild. you could hook the fuel pump to a toggle switch, when it floods you can cut the fuel pump off and the engine should start. then you simply flip the switch back on to keep it running. this is what i had to do for a while.

 

many would agree NGK makes the best and i think only spark plug designed for a rotary....so no

 

Haltech E8.
**** the stock ECU and that old, crappy wiring!


-Ted

 

reted i think your right about standalone my buddy had the wolf 3d he just had a rebuild with old housings and it never flooded ,,,,that brings my attention to the stock ecu there must be a problem in there like hailers said ...now i checked the rx8 forum they to have fooding problems on knew rx8 .....god give me strenght to find a deffinate cure if some one could pull it off they would make alot of money

 

I'm sorry to barge in on this.... But wouldn't this spray fuel EVERYWHERE!?!?!?!?!

are you specifying how to install some type of bleeding device, or are you seriously saying that we can run with a 1/32" hole in our fuel lines?

 

My housings were still in decent shape, so I re-used them.