How interchangeable are Mazda electrical parts? (ex. TPS)
06-22-05, 01:25 PM
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How interchangeable are Mazda electrical parts? (ex. TPS)
Trying to find out how interchangeable Mazda parts are between their cars. Specifically, will the TPS from a '90 Miata work on my '90 RX7 (GXL model)? A friend of mine has a few spare ones laying around, as he owns more than one NA Miata, and seeing as how the local junkyards don't have any spare TPS, I'm having trouble finding any to use.
06-22-05, 02:12 PM
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Nope. 
The Miata TPS is very similar (if not the exact same) as the Mustang TPS. The FC actually uses TWO TPS sensors. There is a 1/4 range, and then another full range.
The Miata TPS is very similar (if not the exact same) as the Mustang TPS. The FC actually uses TWO TPS sensors. There is a 1/4 range, and then another full range.
06-22-05, 02:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Tessai
Thanks for the quick reply, Aaron... he's not going to like that bit of information, we'll just say he isn't that fond of mustangs 
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06-23-05, 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by adrock3217
Mustang throttle body..my dad has a '00 GT. I wonder if he'll let me borrow the throttle body + intake to try on my car
by the way I may have just found a roller for that old drivetrain of yours./hijack
06-23-05, 09:36 PM
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Didn't want to start a new thread for another TPS question while this one is somewhat alive...
What harm can be done to the car by driving with the TPS unplugged?
I ran a search and only found 1 thread that pertains to this, and it was both inconclusive and pertained mostly to s4 owners. I drove my car with it unplugged around the block yesterday to get it warmed up enough to do the multimeter test (dead spot in the 3k ohm range) and the only things I noticed was more frequent backfires and an extremly low idle... As in, the mark above "0" where the gauge starts. Somehow, the car stays alive that low. I got curious, and the car did get to ~7k in first. I did not want to go any faster than that in a residential neighborhood, but it was running smoothly at that high so I'm going to assume redline would not have been a problem.
My question mainly is, since the computer no longer knows what the throttle is at, will the AFM provide enough fuel information to prevent the car from running too lean?
What harm can be done to the car by driving with the TPS unplugged?
I ran a search and only found 1 thread that pertains to this, and it was both inconclusive and pertained mostly to s4 owners. I drove my car with it unplugged around the block yesterday to get it warmed up enough to do the multimeter test (dead spot in the 3k ohm range) and the only things I noticed was more frequent backfires and an extremly low idle... As in, the mark above "0" where the gauge starts. Somehow, the car stays alive that low. I got curious, and the car did get to ~7k in first. I did not want to go any faster than that in a residential neighborhood, but it was running smoothly at that high so I'm going to assume redline would not have been a problem.
My question mainly is, since the computer no longer knows what the throttle is at, will the AFM provide enough fuel information to prevent the car from running too lean?
06-24-05, 10:45 AM
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With a '89+ the TPS controls the metering oil pump. So unplugging the full range TPS will result in a default value being used to control oil flow, and likely limp mode will follow. Just replace the TPS. They're a dime a dozen.
06-24-05, 12:10 PM
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Aaron,
I'd love to replace the TPS. Been searching for one for the past week, and have only been able to find new ones for ~$350. As for the OMP, my existing OMP is bad anyway and has already been defaulted. I have a replacement in the garage, but I am awaiting a few more parts to arrive for another project I plan on working with on this car - didn't see the point in tearing into the same area twice in a row, thought I'd save everything and do it all at once.
If the OMP is all I have to worry about, I guess I'll add a bit of premix (as my car still burns the regular amount of oil, so the OMP is still functioning at least halfway-decently) to be on the safe side.
I'd love to replace the TPS. Been searching for one for the past week, and have only been able to find new ones for ~$350. As for the OMP, my existing OMP is bad anyway and has already been defaulted. I have a replacement in the garage, but I am awaiting a few more parts to arrive for another project I plan on working with on this car - didn't see the point in tearing into the same area twice in a row, thought I'd save everything and do it all at once.
If the OMP is all I have to worry about, I guess I'll add a bit of premix (as my car still burns the regular amount of oil, so the OMP is still functioning at least halfway-decently) to be on the safe side.
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