this is making me confusing i need more help that i think

 

Which bits are you confused about? I’m happy to help.

 

Also a Boost controller cannot limit boost
-The Department of Redundancy Department

 

I said that in my little rant.

BTW, that quote was from Aaron, not me. Been doing a little cutting and pasting?

 

you know ... i have no problems with learning things. and like i said in my last post to eddierotary, i have removed myself from the "giving of advice" ...

BUT .... (and you can take this however you want)

what YOU need to do is to learn how to read ... i mean, really take the time to look at written words and process them.

i have gone over my threads twice now, and i still fail to see where i have EVER said that a boost controller will "lower" ... and correct me if i am wrong, but i also conceded to the fact that it will not prevent spiking, but if it's working right, it will act as some relatively cheap insurance against it.

now when you think of how a turbocharger works on a combustion engine, ANY combusiton engine, there are several factors that goes into the boost that that thing will produce. all kinds of factors, external (air pressure, altitude) and internal (compression, wheel sizes, whatever) ... now if he gets the turbo/wastegate issues settled on the setup that he has (and i assumed that he was not making changes to his car other than what he initially mentioned) ... so if nothing esle is being changed on the car, and he's not moving to Death Valley or something, then how likely is it that he is going to get a SERIOUS spike with boost controller working correctly?????

look, you're entitled to what you believe and doing what works for you ... furthermore, even if i did not remove myself from this thing, it is his decision to follow whoever's "advice" he chooses to ...
so screw you and that **** about me not giving "turbo advice" to people.

i've never lost a turbo engine, and from the people that i've coached, i haven't had anyone lose an engine. but i guess you'd call it ... "luck." you don't know me, and the part of this whole thing that really gets to me, is not the fact that we seem to disagree, or even the fact that you challenge me (because, again, as i said to him i'm NOT an expert) ... what eggs me is the simple fact that YOU DO NOT READ, but you speak!!!!

if you knew as much as you make yourself appear to know, AND if you read my threads, you would see what i'm trying to do ... he might not know the difference, but you should!!!! i prefer to walk closer to the side of caution, as opposed to getting every last HP possible ... and that's how i advise people, because (a) i know that once someone gets a taste of added power, it's natural to want more, and (b) i wouldn't want someone to blow up because of me ... and with the setup he's doing, it works, but it's also quite fragile. i like to prevent, not cure.

but i guess that's what happens when you see the world upside down, eh?

***************************************
eddierotary~

so for the last time, i'm out of this. it's not you, but i'd rather not resort to some of the childish CRAP i've seen in other threads when people disagree. like i said, do the reasearch for yourself to make your decision. i wish you nothing but luck, and i wouldn't mind hearing how your car is doing (if you want to PM).

peace bro' ...

 

The fact that you're sticking to your guns over this proves you don't fully understand how turbos and boost controllers work.
If boost spikes or creeps without a controller, so you install one and it then doesn't spike or creep (or does it less), then you have lowered boost! You may not have used the word "lower", but that is in fact what you think will happen. But this will not happen because boost controllers are unable to do this. There is absolutely no "insurance" associated with installing one.

 

okay ... humor me here ...

just out of curiosity, let me hear your explanation of how a boost controller works ...

 

It’s very simple. Bleeder type boost controllers (that includes EBC’s) work by bleeding some pressure out of the wastegate actuator line. The actuator sees less pressure so it opens later, meaning the turbo is allowed to spin faster than before. A faster spinning turbo means more boost.
To lower boost you would need to open the wastegate earlier. You’d need to raise the pressure in the wastegate actuator. How are you going to do that?

Boost spikes are caused by the wastegate actuator not being able to respond quickly enough to stop boost briefly overshooting the set max boost before dropping back down. This is rarely a problem with these turbos. Boost creep is caused by the wastegate port being to small to handle the flow increases from exhaust and intake mods. A boost controller is of no use here because the wastegate is fully open anyway.

For more info, read this article on how bleeders work and how to make one. I hope all this explains it for you. Like I said, this is not a personal thing, it’s technical.

 

NZ is completely correct. There should be a disclaimer posted at the top of this forums home page stating that
"Boost controllers can ONLY raise boost" Not make it stabiler but only raise it. It is a mechanical fact not hearsay. If you have a grasp and understanding of how a WG works in tandom with the amount of boost you would understand this even if you never saw one in real life.
IMO youll need to port the death out of that WG, and maybe even need to put a bigger "door" in it, in order to avoid bad *** creep, and spike. Especially if you dont plan on putting a cork in your exhaust and a piece of cement in your airbox!

 

LOL! Kiwi Mafia! Didn't Michael Corleone drive a 7?

 

Listen to NZ he knows his stuff more than u think.

 

i just put in a 87 turbo j-spec motor and i have a 2.5 exhaust straight to the stock muffelers w/ no cats or n-e thing and i am running close to 7.5 lbs.